Free Mini Gingerbread Boy & Girl Amigurumi Pattern

Last Updated on August 16, 2025 by Holly Lanier

It’s never too early to start crocheting Christmas projects. With that sentiment in mind, I’m excited to bring you another FREE amigurumi pattern! I designed these mini gingerbread boys back in 2017 to give as gifts to the members of my church worship team. Of course, I had to design a little gingerbread girl to go along with him later on. Enjoy this free mini gingerbread boy amigurumi pattern (and gingerbread girl)!

Want the big cuddle-sized version of these gingerbread babies? Check out my Free Cuddle-Sized Gingerbread Man and Girl Amigurumi Pattern HERE.

Meet Sugar Baby and Spice Jr., the Gingerbread Twins! They’re the sweetest baby gingers and just right for Christmas time! You definitely won’t want to make just one!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this gingerbread boy and girl crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version.

Want more Christmas amigurumi fun like this mini gingerbread boy amigurumi pattern? Check out my Free Mini Christmas Tree Amigurumi Pattern and Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi Pattern!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free mini gingerbread boy amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in brown and white. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Warm Brown” for my gingerbread babies. Since designing this pattern, this yarn color has been discontinued. As an alternative, I would suggest Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Toasted Almond”. For the white, I also used the same brand of yarn in the color “White”.
• DK/light worsted yarn in red, pink, blue, purple, teal, and green. (This is for the bow, cheeks, and button details of the gingerbread babies, so you’ll only need a small amount of each.) I recommend Paintbox Simply DK by LoveCrafts.
• F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
• C (2.75 mm) crochet hook (to be used with the DK yarn for the smaller details)
• 2 sets of 9 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker
• Straight pins
• Black embroidery floss

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 3.5 in. (9 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Head (starting in brown yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R8-9: sc in all 36 sts (2 rounds total at 36 sts each)

Switch to brown yarn

R10-13: sc in all 36 sts (4 rounds total at 36 sts each)

R14: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 st)

R15: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Adding the Face

Stop now for the eyes and mouth. If you are making the girl, embroider her eyelashes before you secure the safety eyes. It will make it easier to embroider them. Insert your safety eyes between R13 & 14 9 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 9 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.) Now embroider a small smile, about 3 sts wide between the eyes (see pics. #1 & #2).

R16: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

Stop and start to stuff the head, continuing as you work.

R17: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R18: *dec 1* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing head firmly, and use the tail to sew up hole, then weave in your end.

Legs (make 2 starting in brown yarn)

Feet are made separately then joined together to create the body.

R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times (6 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times (8 sts)

Finish off on the 1^st leg. Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2nd leg; Switch to brown yarn on the 2nd foot (see pic. #3).

We will now join the feet together and start making the body. The left foot is the one we finished off on, the right foot is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off. (From the gingerbread’s perspective.)

Body (continuing in brown yarn)

R5: Join right leg to left leg with a sc in the 1^st st of the last round you made on the left leg, now sc 7 more on the left leg, finish joining the legs together by making a sc in the next st on the right leg, then sc 7 (16 sts) (see pic. #4 and #5). Watch this video to learn how to crochet amigurumi legs together.

For the mini gingerbread boy’s body:

R6-11: sc in all 16 sts (6 rounds total at 16 sts each)

For the mini gingerbread girl’s body:

R6-8: sc in all 16 sts (3 rounds total at 16 sts each)

R9: BLO sc in all 16 sts (16 sts) This is the only round crocheted in the back loops. The front loops will be used later to make her skirt.

R10-11: sc in all 16 sts (2 rounds total at 16 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly. Align the body to the bottom center of the head carefully so that the eyes and the feet line up evenly. Pin the body and head together using straight pins to make sure they stay positioned correctly while you are sewing them together.

Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. Keep checking the position of the body as you are sewing to make sure it is still even and not shifting too much. When you are about three-fourths of the way around, you might want to add a little more stuffing to the body to make it sturdier. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body (see pics. #6 and #7).

Skirt for girl (starting in brown yarn)

Holding the girl upside down, join your brown yarn to the front loops of R9 from the body with a sc st (see pic. #8).

R1: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 8 times (24 sts)

R3: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

Switch to white yarn (we will be making the white fringe now)

R4: *sl st 1, 2 dc in the next sc, 2 dc in the next sc* rep 8 times (40 Sts) (see pic. #9)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Weave the remaining tail up the back of the skirt and into the body to finish (see pic. #10).

Arms (make 2 starting brown yarn)

R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R2-3: sc in all 5 sts (2 rounds total – 5 sts)

Switch to brown yarn

R4: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There isn’t really a need to stuff the arms unless you want to. Position the arms over R8-R11 of the body, lined up evenly with the legs. Sew them to the body using the whipstitch (see pics. #11 & #12).

Cheeks (Make 2 using DK weight pink yarn & 2.75 mm crochet hook)

NOTE: Cheeks, bows, and buttons are all made using DK weight yarn (light worsted) and a C (2.75mm) crochet hook.

Ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing. Position the cheeks so that they are over R13-R15 of the head, approx. spaced about one single crochet stitch away from each eye. Sew the cheeks to the head using the seamless join method.

Bow (Using DK weight red yarn & 2.75 mm crochet hook)

Ch 7, starting in the 3^rd ch from the hook, make 2 dc, hdc 1, sl st 1, hdc 1, make 2 dc in the last ch, turn and in the front loops of the chain, make 2 dc in the first ch, hdc 1, sl st 1, hdc 1, make 2 dc in the last ch (see pic. #14)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique, leaving a long tail. Weave this tail over to the center back of the bow, then wrap it around the middle several times. Knot it at the back to secure it (see pic. #15). Then, using the remaining tail, sew it to the front of the body just under the head for the boy (see pic. #16).

For the girl, sew the bow to the top of the head over R7 of the head (see pic. #17).

Buttons (Make 2 using DK weight yarn in any colors & 2.75 mm crochet hook)

Ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #18).

Position the buttons to the front center of the body. Pin them into place using straight pins, then sew the buttons to the front of the body using the seamless join method (see pics. #19 and #20).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free mini gingerbread boy and girl amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Want to turn your mini gingerbread boy and girl amigurumi into Christmas ornaments? Watch this video to learn how to turn any small amigurumi into a Christmas ornament!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free mini gingerbread boy amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!