Free Panda Amigurumi Pattern – Easy Crochet Tutorial

Last Updated on January 27, 2026 by Holly Lanier

Today I’m sharing the third bear pattern from my Baby Bear Collection – a panda! It’s hard to pick a favorite from this collection, but I believe a lot of you might choose this sweet panda. Be sure to check out the other bears in this collection, Valentine’s Day Bear and Polar Bear. Now, I hope you enjoy this free panda amigurumi pattern, the third installment in this series!

You can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this free panda amigurumi pattern in my shop. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free panda amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You’ll Need

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in white and two other colors. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my panda, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “White” and “Black”. You’ll also need a small amount of black yarn for the mouth.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 10.5 mm black safety eyes
• 18 mm black safety nose
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 6 in (15.5 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Panda Amigurumi Pattern

Important Note Before Beginning

As mentioned above, this pattern is part of my Baby Bears Collection, which includes four different bear designs. Each bear features its own unique details and accessories, but the basic body and limb design is the same for all four bears. Because of this, you’ll see that the step-by-step photos for the head, body, ears, and arms are all crocheted in pink. You’ll want to use white or black for the panda bear, even though the tutorial photos show the pieces being made in pink.

Head (Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)

R9: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R10-12: sc in all 48 sts (3 rounds total at 48 sts each)

R13: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R14-16: sc in all 54 sts (3 rounds total at 54 sts each)

R17: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R18: sc in all 60 sts

R19: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R20: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R21: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R22: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R23: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Start to Stuff

Stop and start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you crochet the last few rounds. Refer to “stuffing” under this pattern’s “Important Additional Info” section to see a video on how to properly stuff if you need help.

R24: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R25: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R26: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R27: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Finish stuffing the head and then set it aside until we have made the muzzle and eye patches.

Muzzle (Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the 4 chs, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc, make 1 sc in each of the next 2 chs, inc 1 (10 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Check out this video here to see how to work into a foundation chain.

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 5 times (15 sts)

R3: *inc, sc 2* rep 5 times (20 sts)

R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 5 times (25 sts)

R5-6: sc in all 25 sts (2 rounds total at 25 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Adding the Nose Details

Insert and secure your 18mm safety nose between R2 & 3 of the muzzle if you want a more upturned nose or R1 & 2 if you want a more centered nose. You can also embroider the nose if you don’t have safety noses. Take some black yarn and make a small, vertical, straight stitch just under the nose.

Place your muzzle over R15-23 of the head, centered between the eyes, and pin it into place with straight pins to keep it straight while we sew it on.

These tutorial photos show the bear with the safety eyes already inserted because it was for another bear in the collection, but you won’t add the eyes to the panda until we make the eye patches after sewing the muzzle on.

Using your tapestry needle and the long tail we left, sew the muzzle to the head using the whipstitch. About ¾ of the way around, stop and lightly stuff the muzzle. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Eye Patches (Make 2 Using Black Yarn)

R1: ch 4, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the 3 chs, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, make 1 sc in each of the next 3 chs (6 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would, working in the round. Check out this video here to see how to work into a foundation chain.

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Finish off neatly using the Invisible Finish Technique and leave a long tail for sewing.

Sewing the Eye Patches on

Now insert your 10.5 mm eyes into the eye patches so that the eye is in the upper half of the patch.

Secure the washers to the backs of the eyes. Now position the patches on either side of the muzzle so that the posts of the eyes are between R17 & 18 of the head. Wiggle the posts in between the sts of the head so that the patches lay flat against the head.

Pin the patches in place using straight pins to keep them in place while we sew them down.

Watch this video to see how I sewed the eye patches on using the Invisible Seam Method.

Now sew them down: Step 1: Pull your needle through a stitch of the eye patch and also through a stitch of the head. Step 2: Pull your needle back up through the same stitch on the eye patch we came out of, then go over to the next stitch on the eye patch and repeat step 1. Repeat steps 1 and 2 all the way around.

When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Ears (Make Two Using Black Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4-6: sc in all 18 sts (3 rounds total at 18 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the edges of the ear and sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this short video to see how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.

Now place the ears on either side of the head over R7-15 of the head. The ears should be curved slightly inward. Pin them in place using straight pins to keep them in place while we sew them on (see pic. #20).

Sew the outside edge of the ear to the head using the whipstitch following the curve of the ear.

When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Legs (Make Two Starting in Black Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)

R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

Finish off on the first leg. DO NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2nd leg. On the 2nd leg, switch to white yarn on the last stitch of R5 and then ch 3.

We will now join the legs together and start making the body. The left leg is the one we finished off on, the right leg is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off with the 3 chs (from the bear’s perspective).

Body (Continuing in White Yarn)

Watch this video to see how to join crocheted legs together.

R6: Join the right leg to left leg with a sc in the 1^st st of the left leg (see last 2 images in pic. #1), now make a sc st into each of the remaining 11 sts on the left leg, make a sc st in each of the front loops of the 3 ch sts between the legs (these are the chain stitches we made after the last round of the right leg. See pic. #2), now we are crocheting on the right leg (see first image in pic. #3), make a sc st in each of the 12 sts on the right leg, make a sc st in each of the back loops of the 3 ch sts (see last 3 images in pic. #3) (30 sts)

See pic. #4 to see the legs fully joined together.

R7-14: sc in all 30 sts (8 rounds total at 30 sts each)

Switch to black yarn

R15-17: sc in all 30 sts (3 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R18: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R19: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the legs and body firmly. If you need help stuffing, refer to “Stuffing: For Legs and Bodies” under “Important Additional Info” section of this pattern. Now position the body to the bottom of the head so that it’s centered and pin it into place so it doesn’t shift around while we are sewing it on. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.

Arms (Make Two Using Black Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3-4: sc in all 9 sts (2 rounds total at 9 sts each)

R5: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)

R6-10: sc in all 6 sts (5 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Do not stuff. Like we did for the ears, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Sew to either side of the body using the whipstitch just under the head.

When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free panda amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free panda amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!