Free Polar Bear Amigurumi Pattern With Hat and Scarf

Last Updated on January 14, 2026 by Holly Lanier

It’s still Winter, which means it’s still acceptable to be crocheting polar bears wearing winter gear! This sweet polar bear is ready for all the chilly weather with his cute little hat and scarf. I designed this polar bear as part of my Baby Bears Collection several years ago. Check out the free pattern for the Free Valentine’s Day bear, also part of this collection.

You can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this free Polar Bear amigurumi pattern in my shop. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free Polar Bear amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You’ll Need

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in white and two other colors. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my bear, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “White” and Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Turqua“. You’ll also need a small amount of black yarn for the mouth.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 10.5 mm black safety eyes
• 18 mm black safety nose
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 8 in (20.5 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Polar Bear Amigurumi Pattern

Important Note Before Beginning

As mentioned above, this pattern is part of my Baby Bears Collection, which includes four different bear designs. Each bear features its own unique details and accessories, but the basic body and limb design is the same for all four bears. Because of this, you’ll see that the step-by-step photos for the head, body, ears, and arms are all crocheted in pink. You’ll want to use white for the polar bear even though the tutorial photos show the pieces being made in pink.

Head (Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)

R9: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R10-12: sc in all 48 sts (3 rounds total at 48 sts each)

R13: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R14-16: sc in all 54 sts (3 rounds total at 54 sts each)

R17: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R18: sc in all 60 sts

R19: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R20: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R21: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R22: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

Adding the Eyes

Insert your 10.5mm eyes between R17 & 18 of the head spaced 12 sts apart (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 12 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.)

R23: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Stop and start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you crochet the last few rounds. Refer to “stuffing” under this pattern’s “Important Additional Info” section to see a video on how to properly stuff if you need help.

R24: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R25: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R26: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R27: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Finish stuffing the head and then set it aside until we have made the body.

Muzzle (Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the 4 chs, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc, make 1 sc in each of the next 2 chs, inc 1 (10 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Check out this video here to see how to work into a foundation chain.

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 5 times (15 sts)

R3: *inc, sc 2* rep 5 times (20 sts)

R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 5 times (25 sts)

R5-6: sc in all 25 sts (2 rounds total at 25 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Adding the Nose Details

Insert and secure your 18mm safety nose between R2 & 3 of the muzzle if you want a more upturned nose or R1 & 2 if you want a more centered nose. You can also embroider the nose if you don’t have safety noses. Take some black yarn and make a small, vertical, straight stitch just under the nose.

Place your muzzle over R15-23 of the head, centered between the eyes, and pin it into place with straight pins to keep it straight while we sew it on.

Using your tapestry needle and the long tail we left, sew the muzzle to the head using the whipstitch. About ¾ of the way around, stop and lightly stuff the muzzle. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Ears (Make Two Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4-6: sc in all 18 sts (3 rounds total at 18 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the edges of the ear and sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this short video to see how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.

Now place the ears on either side of the head over R7-15 of the head. The ears should be curved slightly inward. Pin them in place using straight pins to keep them in place while we sew them on (see pic. #20).

Sew the outside edge of the ear to the head using the whipstitch following the curve of the ear.

When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Legs (Make Two Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)

R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

Finish off on the first leg. DO NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2^nd leg. For the panda bear we are going to switch to white yarn on the last stitch of the 2^nd leg and then ch 3 (see pic. #24). For all the other bears, you will continue on in the same color you started the leg with and also ch 3 (see pic. #25)

We will now join the legs together and start making the body. The left leg is the one we finished off on, the right leg is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off. (From the bear’s perspective.)

Body (Continuing in White Yarn)

Watch this video to see how to join crocheted legs together.

R6: Join the right leg to left leg with a sc in the 1^st st of the left leg (see last 2 images in pic. #25), now make a sc st into each of the remaining 11 sts on the left leg, make a sc st in each of the front loops of the 3 ch sts between the legs (these are the chain stitches we made after the last round of the right leg. See pic. #26), now we are crocheting on the right leg (see first image in pic. #27), make a sc st in each of the 12 sts on the right leg, make a sc st in each of the back loops of the 3 ch sts (see last 3 images in pic. #27) (30 sts)

R7-17: sc in all 30 sts (11 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R18: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R19: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Stuff the legs and body firmly. If you need help stuffing, refer to “Stuffing: For Legs and Bodies” under “Important Additional Info” section of this pattern. Now position the body to the bottom of the head so that it’s centered and pin it into place so it doesn’t shift around while we are sewing it on. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.

Arms (Make Two Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3-4: sc in all 9 sts (2 rounds total at 9 sts each)

R5: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)

R6-10: sc in all 6 sts (5 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Do not stuff. Like we did for the ears, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Sew to either side of the body using the whipstitch just under the head.

When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.

Polar Bear hat (Using Any Color of Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-8: sc in all 30 sts (3 rounds total at 30 sts each)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Set aside until we make the hat band.

Hat Band (Using Any Color of Yarn)

Hat band is worked in rows, not rounds so we will ch 2 and turn at the end of each row. We do not work into the 2 chs at the end of each row, they are just there to create a clean edge.

R1: ch 5, starting in 3^rd ch from hook, hdc 3 (3 sts), ch 2, turn

R2-24: hdc 3 (3 sts), ch 2, turn

Before finishing off, wrap the band around the hat to make sure that it is short/long enough. If it is not, adjust accordingly by adding more or fewer rows. Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Join the two short ends of the band together and sew them together using the whipstitch. You now have a circular band.

Slip it over the bottom of the hat, and using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew the bottom edge of the band to the last round of the hat as seen in the two-panel photo below.

When finished, knot the ends to secure and weave in all loose ends.

Pom Pom (Using Any Color of Yarn)

I made my pom pom using a 20mm pom pom maker (of this set, the small pink one is the size I used). There are many different ways to make pom poms, including with cardboard or with a dinner fork. Below are links to video tutorials for each of these methods.

1. How to make a pom pom using a pom pom maker
2. How to make a pom pom using a dinner fork
3. How to make a pom pom using cardboard

Sewing the Pom Pom to the Hat

When complete, sew the pom pom to the tip of the hat. To do this, I threaded both tails from the pom pom through the top center of the hat, with the tails being spaced about one stitch apart from each other (see first 2 images in the collage below). Then I knotted the two tails together on the inside of the hat to secure the pom pom. The inside of the hat won’t be visible since we’ll be sewing the hat to the head, so don’t worry about the knots (see last 2 images in the collage below).

To sew the hat to the head, place the hat on the top center of the head between the ears and pin it into place using straight pins. You can also stuff the hat a little bit to help it keep its shape.

Now take a long piece of yarn, the same color as the hat band, and make a large knot on one end. With your tapestry needle, pull the yarn through the bottom back of the hat band so that the knot is hidden behind the band (see first 3 images in the collage below). Now to sew it to the head like this: Step 1: Go over one stitch and pull your needle through the hat band and under 3-4 sts of the head. Step 2: Pull your needle up through the hat band and repeat step 1. Repeat steps 1-2 all the way around until the hat is sewn on (see last image in the collage below). Make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Scarf (Using Any Color of Yarn)

The scarf is worked in rows, not rounds, so we will ch 2 and turn at the end of each row. We do not work into the 2 chs at the end of each row; they are just there to create a clean edge. The scarf is the same pattern as the hat band, just longer.

R1: ch 5, starting in 3^rd ch from hook, hdc 3 (3 sts), ch 2, turn

R2-43: hdc 3 (3 sts), ch 2, turn

You can make your scarf as long or as short as you like. This is just how long I made mine. When you are satisfied with the length, finish off and neatly weave the ends into the scarf to hide them. Wrap the scarf around your bear’s neck, and you are finished!

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free polar bear amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free polar bear amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!