Last Updated on January 8, 2026 by Holly Lanier
Happy New Year! This is the first free pattern of 2026. I designed Chet the Puppy Dog many years ago. He’s one of my original Cuddle-Sized designs! I’m very excited to now share his pattern on the blog today. I hope you enjoy this FREE puppy dog amigurumi pattern! This pattern is so easy to customize, and it’s also one of my more beginner-friendly cuddle-sized patterns. These dogs are so fun to make you won’t be able to just stop at one – don’t say I didn’t warn you!
Meet Chet the Puppy! Chet is like any other puppy in that he loves to frolic and play! But when he gets tired from all that playing after a long day, he’s ready to settle down and snuggle with you for a while!
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this dog crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free puppy dog amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need to Make This Free Puppy Dog Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in tan and dark brown. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my dog, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Buff” and Red Heart Soft Yarn in the color “Chocolate“.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- 18 mm black or brown safety nose
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 8 in. (20.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Optional Details and Colors
This basic puppy pattern is very customizable in both color combination options and details. Try adding an eye patch to your dog or spots to his back or head. You could even crochet a little collar for him. The options are endless! Here are a few color combinations I think would make for a great dog!
Black + white
Blue + yellow
Gray + blue (pictured below)
Brown + cream
White + pink
Or rainbow!
Free Puppy Dog Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11: *sc 9, inc 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R12-15: sc in all 66 sts (4 rounds total at 66 sts each)
R16: *sc 10, inc 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R17-20: sc in all 72 sts (4 rounds total at 72 sts each)
R21: *sc 11, inc 1* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R22-24: sc in all 78 sts (3 rounds total at 78 sts each)
R25: *sc 12, inc 1* rep 6 times (84 sts)
R26: *sc 12, dec 1* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R27: *sc 11, dec 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R28: *sc 10, dec 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R29: *sc 9, dec 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R30: *sc 8, dec 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R31: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R32: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
Adding the Face
Insert your 15 mm safety eyes between R25 and R26 of the head, spaced 18 sts apart (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 18 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. See pic. #1).
R33: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Finish off, leaving a short tail. Stuff the head firmly. Make sure to push the stuffing towards the cheeks to help fill them out. The secret to helping keep the head shape is to push the stuffing out toward the cheeks and down. Do not sew the opening closed.
Muzzle (Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 6, starting in 2nd ch from hook, inc 1, sc 3, inc 1, rotate your work 180 degrees and in the front loops of the ch, inc 1, sc 3, inc 1 (14 sts)
(See pic. #2.) This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
R2: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 7 times (21 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 7 times (28 sts)
R4-6: sc in all 28 sts (3 rounds total at 28 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Insert your 18 mm safety nose between R1 and R2 of the muzzle and secure (see pic. #3). If you wish to embroider his nose on instead, do so now.
Position the muzzle over R21-30 of the head. Pin it into place using straight pins so that it stays in place while you sew it on. Sew it to the head using the whipstitch. Just before you finish sewing the muzzle down, stuff it (see pic. #4).
Ears (Using Dark Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-9: sc in all 30 sts (4 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R10: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R11: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R12: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R13-15: sc in all 18 sts (3 rounds total at 18 sts each)
R16: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R17-18: sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Flatten each ear and sew the openings closed using the whipstitch. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge (see pic. #5).
Sewing the Ears to the Head
Position the ears on either side of the head so that the top flat edges are over R9 of the head and pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the flat edge of each ear down to R9 of the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #6). Do not fasten off yet.
If your ears are sticking out and not lying down, after you finish sewing the flat edge of the ear to R9, weave your tail down between approximately R14 and R15 of the head, underneath the ear (see pic. #7).
Grab a stitch of the ear and tack it down to the side of the head (see pic. #8). Do this a couple of more times to make sure it’s secure.
When you are done, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the tail through the head to hide it. If your ears are still sticking out too far, try going lower than between R14 and R15 of the head.
Body (Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10-14: sc in all 54 sts (5 rounds total at 54 sts each)
R15: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R16: sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)
R17: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R18: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)
R19: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R20-24: sc in all 36 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.
Sewing the Body to the Head
Since the last round of the head and the last round of the body each have 36 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. When you are about three-fourths of the way around, add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When you are finished sewing, knot the finishing tail we left on the head and the remaining sewing tail from the body together to secure the sewing. Then weave the tails into the body to hide them (see pic. #10).
Arms (Make 2 Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R5: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R6-9: sc in all 8 sts (4 rounds total at 8 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly and sew the open ends closed. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge. Position the arms to either side of the body with the flat edge over the last round of the body. Pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the arms to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #11). When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body.
Legs (Make 2 Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3-5: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R6: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R7-11: sc in all 9 sts (5 rounds total at 9 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly and sew the open ends closed as we did for the arms.
Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your dog can sit up on his own when you set him on a flat surface. I sewed the back flat edge of the legs to R8-12 of my dog’s body, but yours might be different, so make sure to set your dog on a flat surface to ensure he can sit on his own.
When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you are sewing them on.
Starting where your finishing tail is on the top of the leg, sew the flat back edge of the leg to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #12). Then, sew down three to four stitches from the top of the thigh to the body (see pic. #13). When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.
Tail (Using Dark Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R4: *inc 1* rep 2 times, sc 4 (8 sts)
R5: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
R6: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times, sc 4 (10 sts)
R7: sc in all 10 sts (10 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail lightly, then position it over R7-11 of the back of the body. Pin it into place using straight pins. Using the tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew the tail to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #14). When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body (see pic. #15).
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free puppy dog amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this free puppy dog amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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