Free Seahorse Amigurumi Pattern – Easy Crochet Tutorial

Last Updated on March 5, 2026 by Holly Lanier

I’m so excited to share one of my favorite designs with you today! I love designing sea creatures, and this little seahorse is definitely a favorite. He’d pair perfectly with Jonah the Whale Shark – also a free pattern! I hope you enjoy this free seahorse amigurumi pattern as much as I enjoyed designing it!

Meet Snorkel the Seahorse! Snorkel is a sweet little seahorse who loves spending his days swimming peacefully through the coral reefs and munching on small crustaceans. Snorkel loves the easy, slow life and mainly keeps to himself, but he does get lonely sometimes and would love to be your friend!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this seahorse crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Want more FREE sea creature amigurumi patterns? Check out Jonah the Whale Shark Amigurumi Pattern and Sandy the Sea Turtle Amigurumi Pattern!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free seahorse amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make This Free Seahorse Amigurumi Pattern

• Worsted weight yarn (4 ply) in any two colors and a small amount of white. (U.K. equivalent is Aran & AUS/NZ is 8 ply.)  Throughout the pattern, we’ll refer to the primary color as “Color A” and the secondary color as “Color B”. For my purple seahorse, I used Caron Simply Soft in the color “Iris”, and Caron Simply Soft Party in “Purple”.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 9 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 5.5 in. (14 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Seahorse Amigurumi Pattern

Note on Colors:

Throughout the pattern, we’ll refer to the primary color as “Color A” and the secondary color as “Color B”.

Head (Using Color A)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-7: sc in all 30 sts (2 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R8: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R9-13: sc in all 30 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each)

R14: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R15: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Adding the Face

Stop and insert your 9mm safety eyes between R12 & 13, 8 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 8 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There will be 6 visible sts between the eyes. See pic. #1.)

Now we will embroider the eye details around the safety eyes. Take some white yarn (or any contrasting color of yarn) and embroider a straight stitch just under each eye. You’ll want it to be about 3 sts wide and about one stitch less than halfway around the eye. There should be slightly more of the white stitch toward the outside of the eye than the inside (see pic. #2).

Start to stuff the head, continuing as you go on.

R16: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R17: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Finish stuffing the head and set it aside.

Tail and Body (Using Color A)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2-18: sc in all 6 sts (17 rounds total at 6 sts each)

R19: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R20: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)

R21: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R22: sc 4, *inc* rep 4 times, sc 4 (16 sts)

R23: sc 4, *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times, sc 4 (20 sts)

R24: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)

R25: sc 4, *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times, sc 4 (16 sts)

R26: sc 4, *dec* rep 4 times, sc 4 (12 sts)

R27-29: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #3). Stuff the body firmly, but leave the tail unstuffed.

Shaping the Tail

Watch this video to see exactly how I rolled my seahorse tail up.

Start to roll the tail up, starting at the tip and rolling tightly all the way up (see pic. #4). Pin it into place with a straight pin to secure it while we sew. Make sure that the roll is centered between the front of the body. The front of the body is the bulging tummy created by the increases from R22 (see last image in pic. #4).

Cut a long length of yarn the same color as the body, and using your tapestry needle, pull it through the tail roll. Go over one stitch on the tail from where your needle came out and pull it back through the roll. Repeat this process until you feel the tail is sufficiently secured (see pic. #5). When finished, weave the remaining tails into the body.

Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 12 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly (see pic. #6). Align the body to the underside of the head, making sure that the tummy and the front of the tail are centered between the eyes (see pic. #7). Watch this video to see exactly how I sewed the head to the body.

Using the whipstitch, sew the body and head together (see pic. #8). When you are about three-fourths of the way around, you might want to put a little more stuffing into the neck to make it sturdier.

When finished (see pic. #9), knot the finishing tail from the head to the remaining body tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.

Snout (Using Color A)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3: in BLO (Back Loops Only) sc in all 9 sts (9 sts) (this is the only round we’ll crochet in the BLO)

R4: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)

R5-6: sc in all 6 sts (2 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #10). Do not stuff.

Position the snout over R12-14 of the head, centered between the eyes. Pin it into place using straight pins (see pic. #11). Using the long tail you left and your tapestry needle, sew it to the head using the whipstitch (see last image in pic. #11).

When finished (see pic. #12), make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Body Fringe (Using Color B)

Ch 34, starting in the 3^rd ch from the hook, *make 1 hdc, 1 dc, & 1 hdc in the same ch, make 1 sl st in each of the next 2 chs* rep 5 times (see pic. #13), *make 3 sc in the same ch, make 1 sl st in each of the next 2 chs* rep 5 times, make 3 sc in the next ch, make 1 sl st in the last ch

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #14).

Position the fringe over the back of the body so that the five larger bumps (the ones made with hdc and dc) are at the top of the head. I placed my fringe so that the top edge was placed over R8 of the front of the head. The fringe should be centered evenly down the back of your seahorse. Pin the fringe in place using straight pins to make sure it remains straight while we’re sewing it on (see pic. #15).

Watch this video to see how I sewed the fringe to the body.

Sew the edge of the fringe to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #16). Every few stitches stop and make sure everything is still straight and even. When finished, make a knot to secure and weave the remaining tails into the body (see pic. #17).

Head Fins (Make 2 Using Color A)

Fins are worked in rows not rounds so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row

R1: ch 4, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, inc, sc 1, inc (5 sts), ch 1, turn

R2: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts) (see pic. #18)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #19).

Weave the finishing tail down the side of the fin so that we can use it to sew the fin to the head (see pic. #20).

Position the fins on either side of the head over R8-11 of the head. The bottom edge of the fin should be about 5 sts away from the eye (see pic. #21).

Sew the fins to the side of the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #22). To finish, knot the starting tail and the sewing tail together to secure the sewing and weave both tails into the head (see pic. #23).

To see fins sewn on, see pic. #24.

Side Fins (Make 2 Using Color B)

Fins are worked in rows not rounds so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 3 (3 sts), ch 1, turn

R2: *inc* rep 3 times (6 sts) (see pic. #25)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave the finishing tail down the side of the fin so that we can use it to sew the fin to the body. Position the fins to either side of the body over R27 of the body. The fins should be 2-3 sts away from the fringe (see pic. #26).

Sew them to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #27). To finish, knot the starting tail and the sewing tail together to secure the sewing and weave both tails into the body (see pic. #28).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free seahorse amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free seahorse amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!