Last Updated on September 13, 2025 by Holly Lanier
A few years after I started my business, I received a custom order for a big “cuddle-sized” bee. At the time, it was the biggest amigurumi I had ever made or designed, and it was a huge hit! From that custom order, my Cuddle-Sized Amigurumi Collection was born. Now I’m thrilled to share the original Cuddle-Sized Bee as a free pattern so you can crochet your own big bee!
Meet Burt the Bee! Burt’s favorite thing to do is buzz around from flower to flower collecting pollen to make his favorite food of all—honey! But he can’t fly too far with his small wings, so he would love to stop and cuddle for awhile with you!
Do you want more free cuddle-sized amigurumi patterns? Check out Aidan the Cuddle-Sized Mushroom and Beep and Boop the Cuddle-Sized Robots.
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this big bee crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free bee amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in yellow, black, white, and a small amount of pink for the cheeks. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my bee, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Yellow”, “Black”, and “White”.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 8 in. (20.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Cuddle-Sized Bee Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using Yellow Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11: *sc 9, inc 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R12: *sc 10, inc 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R13: *sc 11, inc 1* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R14-28: sc in all 78 sts (15 rounds total at 78 sts each)
R29: *sc 11, dec 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R30: *sc 10, dec 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R31: *sc 9, dec 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R32: *sc 8, dec 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R33: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R34: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
Adding the Face
Insert your 15 mm eyes between R27 & 28 of the head spaced 15 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 15 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 12 visible sts between the two eyes. See pic. #1).
Take some black yarn and embroider a smile right between his eyes about 3 sc sts wide (see pic. #2). Watch this video to learn how to embroider a simple smile.
Finally, take some pink yarn and embroider some little cheeks on either side of the head. Each cheek should be about one sc st from the eyes, about 3 sc st wide, and embroidered between R29 & R30 of the head (see pic. #3). As you can see from the pictures, I didn’t embroider the cheeks on my bee until I had stuffed the head. But I would recommend doing it now before stuffing the head to make it easier (see pic. #4 to see the completed cheeks).
Start to stuff the head. Watch this video for some tips on how to stuff large heads.
R35: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Finish off. Leave a short tail. Do not sew the opening closed. Finish stuffing the head, then set it aside until we make the body (see pic. #4).
Antennae (Make 2 Using Black Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8 sts)
R2-3: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R4: *dec 1* rep 4 times (4 sts)
R5-7: sc in all 4 sts (3 rounds total at 4 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #5). Do not stuff.
Position the antennas over R11-13 on either side of the head. They should be placed evenly over the center of the head. Pin them in place using straight pins (see pics. #6 and #7).
Sew the antennas to the head using the seamless join method (see pic. #8).
(See pics. #9 and #10 to see the antennas sewn on.)
Body (Starting in Black Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: sc in all 54 sts (54 sts)
Switch to yellow yarn (watch this video to learn how to switch colors.)
R11-14: sc in all 54 sts (4 rounds total at 54 sts each)
Switch to black yarn
R15-16: Sc in all 54 sts (2 rounds total at 54 sts each)
R17: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R18: sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)
Switch to yellow yarn
R19-22: sc in all 48 sts (4 rounds total at 48 sts each)
Switch to black yarn
R23: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R24: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #11). Stuff the body firmly.
Sewing the Body to the Head
Since the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 36 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly (see pic. #12).
Make sure that the color changes from the body are at the back of the bee before sewing it on. Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together (see pic. #13). When you are about three-fourths of the way around, add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier.
When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head we left to the remaining sewing tail of the body to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish (see pics. #14 and #15).
Arms & Legs (Make 4 Using Black Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8 sts)
R2-9: sc in all 8 sts (8 rounds total at 8 sts each)
Finish off by leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #16). You can stuff the limbs lightly if you want, although I chose to leave mine unstuffed.
Flatten the top of each arm and leg, and sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #17). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.
Sewing the Arms on
Position the arms evenly centered on either side of the body. You’ll sew the flat top edge of the arms to the last round of the body (R24) using the whipstitch (see pic. #18).
When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body (see pic. #19).
Sewing the Legs on
I positioned my bee’s legs over R9-13 of the body with the back flat edge of the leg lined up with the back edge of the arm. I also angled my legs down slightly (see pic. #20). You may have to position your legs differently from mine so that the legs touch the ground when your bee is sitting on its own. Place your bee on a flat surface and position the legs accordingly. Once you have the legs positioned correctly, pin them into place using straight pins.
Using your tapestry needle and yarn tail we left, sew the back flat edge of the leg to the body (see pics. #21 and #22).
Then, sew down three to four stitches from the top edge of the leg to the body to help the legs hug the side of the body. I sewed mine on so that the leg was slanting down at a slight angle (see pic. #23).
When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body (see pic. #24).
Wings (Make 2 Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-12: sc in all 30 sts (7 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R13: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R14: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R15: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R16: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)
R17: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R18: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
Finish off by leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #25). Do not stuff.
Sewing the Wings to the Body
Like we did for the arms and legs, sew the open ends closed on each wing to create a flat edge for sewing. Position the wings over R16-R20 of the back of the body. Make sure the wings are evenly centered over the back and pin them into place using straight pins (see pic. #26). Check the position of the wings from all angles to be sure they aren’t unevenly placed before sewing them on.
Once you have them positioned, remove the left wing (see pic. #27).
Sew the flat edge of the right wing to the body using the whipstitch (see pics. #28 and #29).
When you have finished sewing the top edge down, lift the wing and sew down the opposite side of the wing to the body as well (see pic. #30). Sewing both sides of the wing down like this, rather than just one side, will help the wings be sturdier and not flop around as much.
When you are finished sewing down the first wing, pin the second wing into place again. You’ll want to sew the second wing on so that it overlaps the stitches from the first wing slightly (see pic. #31). This is so that the back of the bee doesn’t peek through the wings. Like we did on the first wing, sew both sides of the wing to the body.
When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body (see pic. #32).
Finishing Up
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed learning how to crochet a bee with this free amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this free bee amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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