Baby Penguin Amigurumi Pattern – Free Crochet Tutorial

Hello, friends! I’m excited to share yet another free pattern with you this week! Each year, back when I was part of my church’s worship team, I used to design a new mini Christmas amigurumi to give out as gifts to the other team members. One of those years, I designed and crocheted these ten baby penguins in a rainbow of colors! This pattern has been a hit ever since I published it back in December of 2019. I hope that you continue to enjoy this now FREE baby penguin amigurumi pattern!

Meet Danny, the Baby Penguin! Danny is a sweet baby penguin who will be devoted to you for life if you just give him plenty of love (and fish). He’s ready for all the cuddles, and thankfully for you, he’s not hard to whip up!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this baby penguin crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free baby penguin amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need

• DK – light worsted in white and any two complementary colors. (You could substitute with sport weight, although sport weight is a little thicker than DK.) For my penguins, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply DK.
• C (2.75 mm) crochet hook
• 7.5 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• trc – triple crochet
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 3.5 in. (9 cm.) tall when using the recommended yarn and hook. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Baby Penguin Amigurumi Pattern

Head (using color A)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8-15: sc in all 42 sts (8 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R16: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R17: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Switch to color B. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R18a and R18.

R18a: in the BLO (back loops only) very loosely slip stitch in all 30 sts (30 sts)

R18: in the BLO (back loops only) *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts) (This is the last round we will crochet in the BLO. See pic. #1).

This is a special way of changing colors so that there is a neat, clean edge all around. The slip stitch round (R18a) is not adding any height to the round and is just the foundation for the next round (R18) so we get the clean edge from the bottom loops of the slip stitches. If you wish to do a traditional color change, then disregard R18a.

Adding the Eyes

Insert your safety eyes between R14 & 15, 9 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 9 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 7 visible stitches between the eyes.)

Start to stuff the head firmly continuing to stuff as you work.

R19: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R20: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R21: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing the head firmly, and use the tail to sew up the hole neatly.

Top/Hood (using color B)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8-16: sc in all 42 sts (9 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R17: dc 9, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 6, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, make 2 trc in the next sc, ch 2, sl st in 2^nd ch from hook, make 2 more trc in the the same sc as the last 2 trc, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 6, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 10 (44 sts) see pic. #2

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Position the hood over the head so that the bottom back of the hood is sewn to R18 of the head (R18 of the head is the color change round). This way, the white on the head doesn’t show through. Don’t position it any further down than R18 of the head. The front bottom tip of the hood should come down just slightly below the bottom of the eyes. Pin the hood into place using straight pins, then sew it to the head using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle (see pic. #3).

Beak (using color B)

R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (4 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)

R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. No need to stuff. Position the beak between the eyes over the tip of the hood and pin it into place (see pic. #4). Sew the beak to the face using the “seamless join method” for a cleaner look (see pic. #5).

Body (using color C)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-13: sc in all 30 sts (8 rounds total at 30 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly and position the body to the bottom of the head over R18 of the head. Make sure that you leave the front loops from R18a of the head showing above the body as we want that color change peeking over the body (see pic. #6). Sew the body to the head using the “seamless join method” for a cleaner look.

Wings (make 2 using color C)

Ch 6, starting in the 3^rd ch from the hook, hdc 3, make 2 hdc in the last ch, turn your piece 180 degrees and in the front loops of the ch, hdc 4 (9 sts) (see pic. #7).

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. We will sew the flat edge of the wings to either side of the body. Sew each wing to the sides of the body to the last round of the body (see pic. #8). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave all ends into the body to hide them.

Feet (make 2 using color B)

R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (4 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)

R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)

Do NOT finish off. Do not stuff. Pinch the foot together so that there are 4 sts on one side and 4 sts on the other side. Now, slip stitch the opening closed with your crochet hook going through both front and back single crochet stitches (see pic. #9).

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing (see pic. #10). Weave the long tail we left to the back top corner of the foot (see the first image in pic. #11). Position the feet over R6 of the body, spaced 4-5 stitches apart from each other. Sew the feet to the body (see pic. #11). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave all ends into the body.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free baby penguin amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free baby penguin amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!

Want to make more mini amigurumi? Check out my free mini polar bear crochet pattern or my free baby Christmas tree crochet pattern!