Last Updated on February 23, 2026 by Holly Lanier
I’m back with a new free cuddle-sized pattern! This week I’m sharing what used to be my best-selling pattern (before my whale shark pattern took off)! Gerald the Giraffe was my most loved pattern for many years, and it’s really not hard to see why. I’m excited to now be sharing this pattern for FREE! Like hundreds of crocheters before you, I hope you love making this easy giraffe amigurumi pattern!
Meet Gerald the Giraffe! Gerald is a very happy, optimistic little guy and just as friendly as can be! I know he’d love to be your playmate!
Want more FREE cuddle-sized amigurumi patterns like this easy giraffe amigurumi pattern? Check out my Free Cuddle-Sized Koala Amigurumi Pattern and my Free Cuddle-Sized Duck Amigurumi Pattern!
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this easy giraffe amigurumi pattern in my shop. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this easy giraffe amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need to Make This Easy Giraffe Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in yellow, white, and brown. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my giraffe, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the colors “Lemon” and “Cafe Latte“. I also used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “White” for the muzzle.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 10 in. (25.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this blog post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Easy Giraffe Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using Yellow Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11-13: sc in all 60 sts (3 rounds total at 60 sts each)
R14: *sc 9, inc 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R15-18: sc in all 66 sts (4 rounds total at 66 sts each)
R19: *sc 10, inc 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R20-23: sc in all 72 sts (4 rounds total at 72 sts each)
R24: *sc 11, inc 1* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R25: *sc 11, dec 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R26: *sc 10, dec 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R27: *sc 9, dec 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R28: *sc 8, dec 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R29: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R30: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
Placing the Eyes
Stop and insert your 15mm black safety eyes between R23 & 24, 17 sts apart (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 17 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. See pic. #1).
R31: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R32: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Start stuffing head, continuing as you go. The secret to keeping the head shape is to stuff the top very firmly, but leave the bottom part less stuffed. Keep pushing the stuffing toward the cheeks and down. That way the head will have a nice, flat bottom.
R33: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R34: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R35: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R36: *dec 1* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off. Finish stuffing head and use tail to sew up hole.
Muzzle (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the 6 chs, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, sc 6 (12 sts)
This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would, working in the round. Check out this video here to see how to work into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 1, sc 4, inc 3, sc 2, inc 2 (18 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc 1, sc 4, *sc 1, inc 1* rep 3 times, sc 2, *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times (24 sts)
R4: sc 2, inc 1, sc 4, *sc 2, inc 1* rep 3 times, sc 2, *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times (30 sts)
R5-7: sc in all 30 sts (3 rounds total at 30 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Sewing the Muzzle to the Head
Embroider two straight st nostrils using brown yarn over the first three rounds of the muzzle (see pic. #2). Position the muzzle centered between the eyes over R19-28 of the head. Pin it into place using straight pins to keep it in place while you are sewing it down. Using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew it to the head using the whipstitch. When you are about 3/4 of the way around, stuff the muzzle firmly. When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish.
Ears (Using Yellow Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R4: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 2 times (10 sts)
R5: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 2 times (12 sts)
R6: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 2 times (14 sts)
R7: sc in all 14 sts (14 sts)
R8: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 2 times (12 sts)
R9: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 3 times (9 Sts)
R10: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 3 times (6 Sts)
R11: sc in all 6 sts (6 Sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten the edges of the ear and sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #3). Watch this short video to see how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.
Now position the ears to either side of the top of the head over R11-13. Pin the ears into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you sew them down. Using the long tail you left and your tapestry needle, sew the bottom flat edge of the ears to the top of the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #4). When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish (see pic. #5).
Horns (Starting in Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R4: sc in all 15 sts (15 sts)
R5: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 3 times (12 sts)
Switch to yellow yarn
R6: *dec 1* rep 6 times (6 sts)
R7-9: sc in all 6 sts (3 rounds total at 6 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tops of the horns firmly. Use a chopstick or the back of your crochet hook to help you stuff. Position the horns on the top of the head over R4-7 between the ears. Pin the horns into place using straight pins. Using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew the horns to the head using the whipstitch (see pics. #6 and #7). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head.
Body (Using Yellow Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10-14: sc in all 54 sts (5 rounds total at 54 sts each)
R15: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R16: sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)
R17: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R18: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)
R19: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R20: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)
R21: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R22: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R23: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
R24: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 3 times (21 sts)
R25-31: sc in all 21 sts (7 rounds total at 21 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body and neck firmly. Position the body to the bottom center of the head and pin it into place using straight pins so it doesn’t shift around while sewing. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. When you are about 3/4 of the way around, add more stuffing to the neck to help make the neck sturdier. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head.
Arms and Legs (Make 4 Starting in Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R5: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 4 times (8 sts)
Switch to yellow yarn
R6-11: sc in all 8 sts (6 rounds total at 8 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the arms lightly, and the legs firmly. Flatten the edges of the arms and legs and sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this short video to see how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.
Position the arms to either side of the body over R22. Pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the arms to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #9). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body.
Position the legs to R4-8 of the body and pin them into place using straight pins (see pic. #10). Sew the legs to the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body (see pic. #11).
Tail (Starting in Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 9 sts (2 rounds total at 9 sts each)
Switch to yellow yarn
R5: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 3 times (6 sts)
R6-10: sc in all 6 sts (5 rounds total at 6 sts each)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail firmly and position it over the back of the body so that your giraffe can sit up on his own. I positioned my tail over R6-8 of the body (see pic. #12). Position your tail and pin it into place using straight pins. Then set him on a flat surface to see if the tail needs to be moved up or down. When positioned correctly, sew it to the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body
Big Heart Spots (Make 2 Using Brown Yarn)
Watch this video to see how I made the large heart “spots.”
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2: *inc 1* rep 5 times (10 sts)
R3: sl st 2, sc 1, 1 hdc & 1 dc in the next sc, 2 dc & 1 sl st in the next sc, 1 sl st & 2 dc in the next sc, 1 dc & 1 hdc in the next sc, sc 1, sl st 2
Finish off with another sl st and a ch, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position one at the back of the body and one at the front (see pic. #13). Pin them into place using straight pins. Then sew them to the body (see pic. #14). Watch this video to see how I sewed the hearts on using the Invisible Seam Method.
Small Heart Spots (Make 3 Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2nd ch from hook (8 sts)
R2: sl st 2, hdc 1, 2 dc & 1 sl st in the next sc, 1 sl st & 2 dc in the next sc, hdc 1, sl st 2
Finish off with another sl st and a ch, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position two at the front of the body and one at the back (see pic. #15). Pin them into place using straight pins. Then sew them to the body. Watch this video to see how I sewed the hearts on using the Invisible Seam Method.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free and easy giraffe amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this easy giraffe amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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