Last Updated on October 31, 2025 by Holly Lanier
I’m really excited to be sharing one of my favorite designs with you today! I designed this cute koala as a crochet-along for Furls Crochet six years ago. You can still find the pattern on their blog. I love how unique this pattern is and her fluffy, fuzzy ears. She’s just the right size for cuddling! I’ve included lots of step-by-step photos to make this pattern easy and fun. I hope you enjoy this free koala amigurumi pattern!
Meet Kozy the Koala Bear! Kozy is just like her name suggests – cozy! And cuddly too! She loves eating eucalyptus leaves and taking naps. In fact, naptime is her favorite time of the day!
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Materials You Need to Make This Free Koala Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in gray and black. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my koala, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Gray Mist” and “Black“.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
- Dog slicker brush
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 6.5 in. (16.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Koala Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using Gray Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11-14: sc in all 60 sts (4 rounds total at 60 sts each)
R15: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R16-18: sc in all 66 sts (3 rounds total at 66 sts each)
R19: *sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R20-23: sc in all 72 sts (4 rounds total at 72 sts each)
R24: *sc 11, inc* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R25: *sc 11, dec* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R26: *sc 10, dec* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R27: *sc 9, dec* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R28: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R29: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R30: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R31: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Finish off and leave a tail.
Adding the Eyes and Stuffing the Head
Insert the eyes between R23 & 24, 13 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 13 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. See pic. #1).
Stuff the head firmly. The secret to keeping the head shape is to push the stuffing down and out. So, when you get to the widest part – the cheeks – push the stuffing out toward the sides to keep the shape and define the cheeks. Don’t worry if the bottom is slightly flat, since we want that “gumdrop” look. When you are finished, set the head aside. Do not sew the opening of the head closed.
Nose (Using Black Yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2nd ch from hook sc 3, inc 1, turn and in the front loops of the ch, inc 1, sc 3 (10 sts)
(See pic. #2.) This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 1, sc 2, inc 4, sc 2, inc 1 (16 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc 1, sc 4, inc 1, sc 1, inc 3, sc 5 (21 sts)
R4: sc in all 21 sts (21 sts)
Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing. Position the nose to R21-29 of the front of the head approx., centered between the eyes (see pic. #3).
Pin it into place using straight pins, then sew the nose to the head using the seamless join method (see pics. #4 and #5). When you have almost finished sewing the nose closed, add a little bit of stuffing.
Ears (Using Gray Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7-8: sc in all 36 sts (2 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R9: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R10: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears. Now we are going to make the ears fuzzy using a pet brush. Take your pet brush and vigorously brush each ear until it is fluffy and fuzzy. Keep brushing until you are satisfied with the fuzziness (see pics. #6 & #7).
Sew the open ends of the ears closed using our long tail (see pic. #8).
Position the ears over R10-23 of the head evenly centered on either side of the head. Pin the ears into place using straight pins. Make sure that the ears are curving in toward the face before sewing them on (see pics. #9 and #10).
Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #11). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.
Body (Using Gray Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-18: sc in all 42 sts (11 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R19: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R20: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly. Since the last round of the head and the last round of the body each have 36 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. When you are about three-fourths of the way around, add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When you are finished sewing, knot the finishing tail we left on the head and the remaining sewing tail from the body together to securing the sewing. Then weave the tails into the body to hide them (see pic. #12).
Arms (Using Gray Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R3-7: sc in all 8 sts (5 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R8: *sc 3, inc* rep 2 times (10 sts)
R9-14: sc in all 10 sts (6 rounds total at 10 sts each)
R15: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times, sc 1 (7 sts)
Finish off, leaving a very long tail for sewing (see pic. #13).
Sewing the First Arm to the Body
Stuff very lightly. Flatten the top of each arm, and sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge. Pin the first arm to the front of the body, slightly to the left of the nose (from his perspective), just under the head over R17-20 of the body (see pic. #14).
It should be sewn on at a slight angle so that the bottom of the arm is extending out just a bit more than the top. Sew the back flat edge of the arm to the body (see pic. #15).
When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body. (It’s really important to knot your sewing after you are finished if you plan to give your plushies to little kids. The limbs will easily work themselves loose from little hands tugging and pulling if you don’t securely knot them after sewing.)
Sewing the Second Arm to the Body
Position the second arm to the back side of the body close enough to the first arm so that the tips of the paws touch (see pics. #16, and #17).
Sew the back flat edge of the arm down to the back of the body, like we did with the first arm. Before making a knot, weave the remaining yarn tail through the center of the arm and bring it out through the bottom tip of the arm. Sew the tips of the paws together using the extra yarn (see pics. #18 & #19). Once you’ve sewn them together securely, weave the remaining tail back up through the back arm. Then, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish. (Again, making a knot here is very important, otherwise the tips of the paws will work themselves loose from little hands.)
Legs (Using Gray Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4-7: sc in all 18 sts (4 rounds total at 18 sts each)
R8: *dec* rep 6 times, sc 6 (12 sts)
R9: *dec* rep 4 times, sc 4 (8 sts)
R10-12: sc in all 8 sts (3 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R13: sc 1, inc 2, sc 2, dec 1, sc 1 (9 sts)
R14: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 2, dec 1, sc 1 (10 sts)
R15: sc in all 10 sts (10 sts)
R16: sc 8, dec (9 sts)
R17: *dec* rep 4 times, sl st 1 (5 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #20). Stuff R9-17 of the legs lightly, but leave the rest of the leg unstuffed. Using the tail we left and your tapestry needle, neatly sew the hole closed using the invisible finish technique.
Sewing the Legs to the Body
Flatten the thighs and pin them to R7-13 of the body so that the front paws are almost touching (see pics. #21, #22, and #23).
Weave the long tail we left to the back of the leg and sew the first leg to the front of the body. Do the same for the back leg, sewing it close enough to the first leg so that the paws are almost touching (see pics. #24 and #25). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to hide them.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free koala amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Want more FREE amigurumi patterns? Check out my Free Stegosaurus Amigurumi Pattern or my Free Triceratops Pattern!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this free koala amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
