Easy Pirate Amigurumi Pattern – Free Crochet Tutorial

Last Updated on October 7, 2025 by Holly Lanier

I’m thrilled to share a really fun new pattern with you today! You don’t see a ton of pirate amigurumi patterns around, so that makes this little guy extra unique! This pattern is easily customizable just by switching up the colors or adding your own fun details to his outfit. I hope you enjoy this easy pirate amigurumi pattern as much as I enjoyed designing it!

Meet Pete the Pirate! Although his gnarly appearance might make you think otherwise, Pete is one of the friendliest pirates you’ll ever meet! He’s been on too many adventures as a lone pirate and would love it if you’d join him in his future escapades! 

Want more cuddle-sized amigurumi patterns? Check out my Free Cuddle-Sized Mushroom Pattern and my Free Cuddle-Sized Pumpkin Pattern!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this easy pirate amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free pirate amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make This Pirate Amigurumi Pattern

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply). I used beige, red, white, blue, black, and brown for my pirate, but you can use any color combination you like. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my pirate, I used Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige” for the skin. For everything else, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 15 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLO – back loops only
• FLO – front loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size of this pirate amigurumi pattern is approximately 7.5 in. (19 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Pirate Amigurumi Pattern

Head (using beige yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R10: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R12: *sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R13-25: sc in all 72 sts (13 rounds total at 72 sts each)

R26: *sc 10, dec* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R27: *sc 9, dec* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R28: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R29: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R30: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)

Adding the Face

Insert the eyes between R24 & 25, 14 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 14 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.) Using pink or red yarn and your tapestry needle, embroider a small smile – about 4 sts wide – right between his eyes (see pic. #1).

R31: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R32: *c 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Stop and start to stuff the head, continuing as you work.

R33: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R34: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R35: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R36: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing the head firmly, and use the tail to sew up hole, then weave in your end (see pic. #2).

Hat (Using Red Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R10: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R12: *sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R13-24: sc in all 72 sts (12 rounds total at 72 sts each)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.

Position the hat on the head (see pic. #3) and pin it into place using straight pins. Thread your tapestry needle with the long tail we left and sew the hat to the head. Step one: Pull your needle up through a stitch on the head and through a stitch on the hat (see pic. #4). Step two: Then, go over one stitch on the hat and pull your needle through that stitch and a stitch from the head (see pic. #5). Repeat steps one and two until the hat is sewn on. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Hat ties (Make 2 Using Red Yarn)

R1: ch 8, make 2 dc in the 3^rd ch from the hook, dc, hdc, sc, sl st 2, rotate your work 180 degrees and in the front loops of the ch, sl st 2, sc, hdc, dc, 2 dc in last st (14 sts) (see pic. #6)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #7).

Sew both ties to the left side of the hat, right next to each other (see pic. #8).

Eye Patch (Using Black Yarn)

R1: ch 5, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4, rotate your work 180 degrees and in the front loops of the chain, sc 4, ch 1, turn (8 sts) By chaining 1 and turning, we now have a half oval shape (see pics. #9 & #10).

R2: sc 3, inc 2, sc 3, ch 1, turn (10 sts)

R3: sc 3, *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 3, ch 1, turn (12 sts)

R4: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

Now sc 6 sts along the bottom flat edge of the eye patch to give it a clean finish (see pic. #11). Do not finish off. Instead, make a sl st in the corner where you are (see first two images in pic. #12).

For the strap, chain approx. 102. The number of chs you make will depend on how loosely you crochet, so be sure to try the eye patch on your pirate periodically to ensure you don’t make the strap too short or long.

When you finish making the strap the correct length, sl st into the top right corner of the eye patch (the opposite corner of where you started chaining) to secure it. Finish off using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing(see pic. #13).

Place the patch around his head and hat, and sew it into place. I sewed just the top flat edge of the patch down, not the strap (see pic. #14). Sewing it on is optional if you want a fun, removable accessory. You can place the patch over either eye. I put mine over the left eye.

Normal Leg (Starting in Black Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R4: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R5: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)

Switch to blue yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R6a and R6.

R6a: in the BLO (back loops only) very loosely slip stitch in all 18 sts (18 sts)

R6: in the BLO sc 18 (18 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)

R7: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)

Finish off. There’s no need to leave a long tail (see pic. #15).

Wooden Leg (Starting in Brown Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: in the BLO *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO until R9)

R4: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R5: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)

R6: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R7: *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)

R8: *sc 4, inc* rep 3 times (18 sts)

Switch to blue yarn.

R9: in the BLO sl st in all 18 sts (18 sts) (see pic. #16)

Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on this leg. We will now join the two legs together and start the body.

Body (Continuing in Blue Yarn)

R1: Join the wooden leg to the normal leg with a sc in the 1^st st of the normal leg (see 2nd image in pic. #17), sc 17 more on the normal leg, now finish joining the legs together by making a sc in the first back loop on the wooden leg (see 5th image in pic. #17), sc 17 more in the BLO of the sl sts from R9 of the wooden leg (36 sts) (see pic. #18) (This is the last time we’ll be crocheting in the BLO until R7a.)

Making the Body

R2-6: sc in all 36 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each) (see pic. #19)

Switch to red yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R7a through R12.

R7a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R7: in BLO sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R8a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R8: in BLO sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R9a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R9: in BLO sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R10a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R10: in BLO sc 36 (36 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R11a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R11: in BLO sc 36 (36 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R12a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R12: in BLO sc 36 (36 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #20).

Sewing the Body to the Head

Stuff the body firmly and position it to the bottom center of the head. Pin it into place using straight pins. Sew the body to the head using the seamless join method (see pic. #21).

Vest (Using Black Yarn)

The vest is worked in rows instead of rounds, so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 29, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 28, ch 1, turn (28 sts) (see pic. #22)

R2-7: sc in all 28 sts, ch 1, turn (6 rows total—28 sts)

R8: dec, sc 24, dec, ch 1, turn (26 sts)

R9: dec, sc 20, dec (22 sts)

(See pic. #23) Do not finish off. We will now crochet a border all the way around the vest for a clean look.

Starting on the short side nearest your hook, sc 7 along that edge (see pic. #24).

On the long, bottom edge, sc 28 in the bottom loops left from the starting ch (see pic. #25).

On the 2^nd short edge, sc 7 (see pic. #26).

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing.

Wrap the vest around the back of the body and sew the top edge to the top round of the body (see pic. #28). Weave in all ends (see pics. #29 and #30).

Arms (Starting in Beige Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)

Switch to red yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R7a through R12.

R4a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R4: in BLO sc 9 (9 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R5a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R5: in BLO sc 9 (9 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R6a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R6: in BLO sc 9 (9 sts)

Switch to white yarn

R7a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R7: in BLO sc 9 (9 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R8a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R8: in BLO sc 9 (9 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #31). No need to stuff.

Sewing the Arms to the Body

Flatten the top of each arm, and sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #32). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.

Position the arms to either side of the body so that the arms are lined up parallel to the legs. Sew the flat edge of the arms to the top edge of the vest using the whipstitch (see pic. #33). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free pirate amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pirate amigurumi pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free pirate amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!