Halloween is just around the corner, and I’m excited to share a brand new free pattern for the season! Several years ago, I designed the mini version of this cuddle-sized ghost, and this year, I knew I wanted to create a jumbo version! So, without further ado, please enjoy this free ghost amigurumi pattern!
Meet Scout the Ghost! Scout is the smallest ghost in his family and, therefore, the least intimidating. This is why Scout has decided to wear a large hat. He hopes wearing one will make him look bigger and scarier. However, you and I know that it just makes him look cuter!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free ghost amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
You can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this ghost amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Supporting my website in this way ensures I can release many more free patterns in the future!
Also, don’t forget to check out the mini version of this ghost pattern HERE.
MATERIALS YOU NEED For Free Ghost Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in white, black, and purple. You’ll also need a small amount of pink for the cheeks. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) I used 70 grams of white yarn for the ghost, 46 grams for the hat, and 10 grams for the hat band. For my ghost, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “White”, “Black”, and “Mixed Berry” for the purple hat. For the purple band around the black hat, I used Caron Simply Soft Party in the color “Purple Sparkle.”
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
- Fabric glue
ABBREVIATION KEY For Free Ghost Amigurumi Pattern
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loops only
- FLO – front loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 8 in (20.5 cm) tall with hat and 5.5 in (14 cm) without hat. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFO
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. If you would like to learn how to do the “ch 2 method,” then see this video HERE.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. If you’d like to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches, see this video HERE.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. If you want more info on this, check out this short video HERE.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: If you need help stuffing your pieces properly, check out this short video HERE.
Free Ghost Amigurumi Pattern
Body (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Learn how to do the “ch 2 method” by watching this video HERE.
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R12: *sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R13-20: sc in all 72 sts (8 rounds total at 72 sts each)
R21: *sc 11, inc* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R22-36: sc in all 78 sts (15 rounds total at 72 sts each)
Now, we’ll create the fringe
R37: in FLO *sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1* rep 11 times, sl st 1 (72 sts)
Finish off neatly using the “Invisible Finish Technique” HERE. Leave a short tail.
Face Details
Insert your 12 mm eyes between R25 & 26 of the head spaced 11 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 11 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 9 visible sts between the two eyes.)
Take some black yarn and embroider a straight stitch mouth right between his eyes about 3 sc sts wide. Finally, take some pink yarn and embroider some little cheeks on either side of the head. Each cheek should be about one sc st from the eyes, about 2 sc st wide, and embroidered between R27 & 28 of the head.
Bottom Piece Of Body (Using White Yarn)
We will be staggering the increases on the bottom piece to create a nice round bottom. I’ve written out exactly how to do this here.
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: sc 1, inc, *sc 2, inc* rep 5 times, sc 1 (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: sc 1, inc, *sc 4, inc* rep 5 times, sc 3 (36 sts)
R7: sc 3, inc, *sc 5, inc* rep 5 times, sc 2 (42 sts)
R8: sc 5, inc, *sc 6, inc* rep 5 times, sc 1 (48 sts)
R9: sc 2, inc, *sc 7, inc* rep 5 times, sc 5 (54 sts)
R10: sc 5, inc, *sc 8, inc* rep 5 times, sc 3 (60 sts)
R11: sc 4, inc, *sc 9, inc* rep 5 times, sc 5 (66 sts)
R12: sc 8, inc, *sc 10, inc* rep 5 times, sc 2 (72 sts)
R13: *sc 11, inc* rep 6 times (78 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Joining The Top And Bottom
We will now join the bottom piece and body of the ghost by sewing them together. Thread your tapestry needle with the tail we left. Going through the front loops of the bottom piece and the back loops from R37 of the body, whipstitch them together.
They should align perfectly since there are 78 sts around on both top and bottom. Start to stuff the ghost as you close it up, and continue to stuff it until it’s sewn shut. Do not overstuff the bottom; we want it to remain somewhat flat and not bulge out.
Arms (Make 2 Using White Yarn)
When you make your slip knot, start with a tail long enough for sewing later.
R1: ch 9, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, make on 1 sc in each of the 8 chs
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Place the arms on either side of the body and pin them in place using straight pins to make sure you sew them on straight. You’ll want to sew the arms to R28 and 29 of the body, spaced about 3 sc sts away from the cheeks. Take the top yarn tail and sew the arms to the body at an angle, with the top of the arm sewn to R28 and the bottom to R29.
Now knot the sewing tail and the starting tail together to secure them and weave the remaining tails into the body.
Repeat for the second arm. You can now leave the arms as is, or, if they are not lying flat against the body, take some fabric glue and glue them down (I Fabric Fusion glue). You could also sew them down using your yarn tail.
Hat (Starting In Black Yarn)
I crocheted the entire hat in the BLO (back loops only) except for R31, which is done in BOTH loops, and R32, which is done in the FLO (front loops only). Doing this gave me a slightly looser fabric, helping me shape the hat and give it that droopy, oversized look. To see the difference between both loops, back loops, and front loops, see this video HERE.
R1: BLO ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
R2: BLO *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: BLO *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R4: BLO *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R5: BLO *sc 4, inc* rep 3 times (18 sts)
R6: BLO *sc 5, inc* rep 3 times (21 sts)
R7: BLO *sc 6, inc* rep 3 times (24 sts)
R8: BLO *sc 7, inc* rep 3 times (27 sts)
R9: BLO *sc 8, inc* rep 3 times (30 sts)
R10: BLO *sc 9, inc* rep 3 times (33 sts)
R11: BLO *sc 10, inc* rep 3 times (36 sts)
R12: BLO *sc 11, inc* rep 3 times (39 sts)
R13: BLO *sc 12, inc* rep 3 times (42 sts)
R14: BLO *sc 13, inc* rep 3 times (45 sts)
R15: BLO *sc 14, inc* rep 3 times (48 sts)
R16: BLO *sc 15, inc* rep 3 times (51 sts)
R17: BLO *sc 16, inc* rep 3 times (54 sts)
R18: BLO *sc 17, inc* rep 3 times (57 sts)
R19: BLO *sc 18, inc* rep 3 times (60 sts)
R20: BLO *sc 19, inc* rep 3 times (63 sts)
R21: BLO *sc 20, inc* rep 3 times (66 sts)
R22: BLO *sc 21, inc* rep 3 times (69 sts)
R23: BLO *sc 22, inc* rep 3 times (72 sts)
R24: BLO *sc 23, inc* rep 3 times (75 sts)
R25: BLO *sc 24, inc* rep 3 times (78 sts)
R26: BLO *sc 25, inc* rep 3 times (81 sts)
R27: BLO *sc 26, inc* rep 3 times (84 sts)
R28: BLO *sc 27, inc* rep 3 times (87 sts)
R29: BLO *sc 28, inc* rep 3 times (90 sts)
Hat Band
Switch to purple yarn (for help with color changes, see this video HERE).
For the special color-changing technique used on R30a and R30, watch this video HERE.
R30a: in the BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 90 sts (90 sts)
R30: in the BLO of the sl sts sc 90 (90 sts)
R31: in BOTH loops sc in all 90 sts (90 sts)
Switch to black yarn
Hat Brim
R32: in the FLO *sc 2, inc* rep 30 times (120 sts)
Resume crocheting in the BLO
R33: BLO sc in all 120 sts (120 sts)
R34: BLO *sc 7, inc* rep 15 times (135 sts)
R35-36: BLO sc in all 135 sts (2 rounds total at 135 sts each)
Finish off neatly using the “Invisible Finish Technique” HERE. Leave a long tail for sewing. If you wish to sew the hat to your ghost’s head, then do so now with the long tail we left. Otherwise, don’t leave a long tail. Neatly weave all ends into the inside of the hat to hide them. You can leave the hat pointy or shape it however you like by smooshing it in like I did. Experiment with what shape you like best!
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free ghost amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free ghost amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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