Last Updated on October 20, 2025 by Holly Lanier
The weather is finally starting to cool down which always has me thinking about Christmas and snow. Of the several snowmen I’ve designed over the years, this easy snowman amigurumi pattern is definitely my favorite. I love how easy this pattern is to customize with the colors, scarves, and hat options. Be careful with this pattern because it’s an addictive one! Once you make one you’ll just want to keep making more!
Meet Frostbert the Snowman! Frostbert loves the cold more than anything else. He loves everything about Winter! Whether he’s getting fancy with his top hat or cozy with his stocking cap and scarf, Frostbert is ready for whatever the season might bring his way.
Want more FREE Christmas amigurumi patterns? Check out my free mini snowman pattern or my free mini gingerbread man pattern.
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this easy snowman crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free easy snowman amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in white, orange, brown, black, gray, red, green, and gray. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my white, black, red, green and gray, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the following colors: “White”, “Black”, “Red”, “Jelly Bean”, & “Gray Mist”. For the orange I used Paintbox Yarns in the color “Blood Orange”. For the dark brown I used Red Heart Soft in the color “Chocolate”. For the blue I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Turqua”
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Cardboard
- Three 1/2 inch (1.27 cm) pre-made pom poms OR pre-made holly berries
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- hdc – half double crochet
- BLO – back loops only
- FLO – front loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 5.5 in. (14 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Easy Snowman Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)
R8: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R9-10: sc in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R11: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R12-16: sc in all 48 sts (5 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R17: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R18: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Stop and insert your 12mm safety eyes between R15 & 16, 10 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 10 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There will be 8 visible sts between the eyes. See pic. #1.)
R19: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R20: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you work.
R21: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Finish stuffing the head and set it aside. Do not close hole.
Carrot Nose (Using Orange Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 5 (5 sts)
R2: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 1 (7 sts)
R4: sc in all 7 sts (7 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #2). No need to stuff.
Position the nose over R14-17 of the head centered between the eyes and pin it into place using straight pins so that it doesn’t shift around while we are sewing. Using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew the nose to the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #3).
When you are finished (see pic. #4), make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.
Body (Using White Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-10: sc in all 30 sts (5 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R11: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R12: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R13: *sc 4, dec* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R14: *sc 4, inc* rep 3 times (18 sts)
R15: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R16-18: sc in all 24 sts (3 rounds total at 24 sts each)
R19: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #5). Stuff the body firmly.
Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 18 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly (see pic. #6).
Using the whipstitch, sew the body and head together (see pic. #7).
When you are about three-fourths of the way around, you might want to put a little more stuffing into the neck to make it sturdier. When finished (see pic. #8), knot the finishing tail from the head to the remaining body tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.
Arms (Make 2 Using Brown Yarn)
Arms are worked in rows instead of rounds
R1: ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the 6 chs (6 sts), ch 1, turn
R2: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts) (see pic. #9)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold each arm in half lengthwise to create a tube. Using the long tail we left and our tapestry needle, sew the long edges together using the whipstitch (see pics. #10 and #11).
Position the arms on either side of the body over R16-17 of the body (see pic. #12). Sew them to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #13).
When finished, knot the remaining sewing tail and the starting tail together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body (see pic. #14).
Scarf (Using Any Color of Yarn)
Note: If you want your scarf to be thicker, make sc sts instead of sl sts. You can also ch more than 47 if you want a longer scarf.
Ch 47, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, make 1 sl st in each of the 46 chs (46 sts) (see pic. #15)
Finish off leaving a tail. To secure the ends so that they don’t fray, knot the starting tail and the finishing tail together (see pic. #16). You can now either just cut the ends (it will leave a small amount of fraying on the ends), or weave the tails up into the scarf and then cut the ends. Place the scarf around your snowman’s neck.
Top Hat (Starting in Black Yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: in BLO (Back Loops Only) *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts) (this is the last round we’ll crochet in the BLO until R14a) (see pic. #17)
R9-13: sc in all 36 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each)
Switch to gray yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R14a and R14.
R14a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 36 sts (36 sts)
R14: in BLO sc 36 (36 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO) (see pic. #18)
Switch to black yarn
R15: in FLO (Front Loops Only) *sc 1, inc* rep 18 times (54 sts) (this is the only rounds we will crochet in the FLO)(see pic. #19)
R16: sc in all 54 sts (54 sts)
R17: *sc 4, inc* rep 10 times, sc 4 (64 sts)
R18: sc in all 64 sts (64 sts)
Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing (see last image in pic. #19).
Sewing the Hat to the Head
In order to keep the top of the hat nice and flat, we will cut out a circle of cardboard the same size as the top of the hat (see first 2 images in pic. #20) and place it in the hat so that it fits snugly. You can use any kind of cardboard for this. Once you have done this, stuff the hat lightly (see last image in pic. #20).
Weave the finishing tail over to the inside edge of the hat so that the tail comes up between R14 and 15 of the hat (see pics. #21 & #22). We will use this tail to sew the hat to the snowman’s head.
Position the hat onto your snowman’s head any way that you like. I placed mine at an angle. Pin it into place using straight pins to keep it from shifting around while we sew it on (see pic. #23).
Using the long tail we left and our tapestry needle, sew it to the head like this: Step 1: Go over one stitch on the hat and then pull your needle down through the hat and through a stitch of the head. Step 2: Pull your needle up through the hat and repeat step 1. Repeat steps 1-2 all the way around until the hat is sewn on (pic. #24). When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.
Holly Berry Leaves (Make 2 Using Green Yarn)
Ch 4, in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 3 sc sts, make 1 sl st in each of the next 2 chs, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, make 1 sl st in each of the next 2 chs, make 3 sc sts in the last ch (10 sts)
(See pic. #25). This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. (see last image in pic. #25).
Adding the Berries
To add the little holly berries, take three red premade pom poms (0.5 in/1.27 cm in size) and glue them to the side of the hat using fabric glue (see pics. #26 & #27). Alternatively, you could use these premade holly berries on Amazon HERE.
Once the glue has dried, sew the bottoms of the leaves to the side of the hat nestled in between the pom poms (see first image in pic. #28). When finished, weave the tails through the hat making sure the tails from both ends come through the same stitch at the back as seen in the 2nd image of pic. #28. Now knot the two tails together to secure them and weave the tails into the hat again to finish (see last image of pic. #28 for finished results).
Stocking Cap (Using Any Color of Yarn)
Note: Hat is worked entirely in hdc sts. If you tend to crochet very loosely when you make hdc sts then please consider going down a hook size or two to compensate for the size difference.
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *hdc inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *hdc 1, hdc inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *hdc 2, hdc inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *hdc 3, hdc inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *hdc 4, hdc inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *hdc 5, hdc inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-9: hdc in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R10: *hdc 6, hdc inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R11-13: hdc in all 48 sts (3 rounds total at 48 sts each)
Finish off (see pic. #29). No need to leave a long tail. Set the hat aside until we make the hat band and pom pom.
Hat Band (Using Any Color of Yarn)
Hat band is worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row. The hat band is also worked entirely in the BLO (back loops only) using sc sts.
R1: ch 4, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 3 (3 sts), ch 1, turn (see pic. #30)
R2-62: in BLO sc in all 3 sts, ch 1, turn (61 rows total at 3 sts each)
Before finishing off, wrap the band around the hat to make sure it is the correct length for your hat. You may need to make it shorter or longer than mine. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #31).
Join the two short ends of the band together and sew them together using the whipstitch (see pic. #32). You now have a circular band (see last image in pic. #32).
Slip it over the bottom of the hat (see pic. #33) and using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle, sew the bottom edge of the band to the last round of the hat as seen in pic. #34.
When finished, knot the ends to secure and neatly weave in all loose ends. See pics. #35 & #36 for the finished results.
Pom Pom (Using Any Color of Yarn)
I made my pom pom using a mini 2.5 inch pom pom maker (see pic. #37). There are many different ways to make pom poms, including with cardboard or with a dinner fork. Below are links to video tutorials for each of these methods.
- How to make a pom pom using a dinner fork
- How to make a pom pom using cardboard
- How to make a pom pom using a pom pom maker
When complete (see pic. #38), sew the pom pom to the top of the hat. To do this, pull one of the tails from the pom pom through the top center of the hat (see pic. #39) and then pull the second tail from the pom pom through the center of the hat one stitch over from the first tail (see pic. #40).
Pull the two tails tight then on the inside of your hat, knot them together to secure the pom pom to the hat (see pic. #41). Cut the ends to finish.
Place the hat on your snowman and you’re done!
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this easy snowman amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this easy snowman amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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