Last Updated on December 30, 2025 by Holly Lanier
It’s almost 2026! I wanted to add one more free pattern to this year’s library as we say goodbye to 2025 and welcome a new year! I designed this sweet duck pattern nearly six years ago now. This pattern is one of my easiest and most beginner-friendly designs. I hope you enjoy this easily customizable free duck and mallard duck amigurumi pattern!
Meet Davy the Duck and Maddox the Mallard! Davy and Maddox are cousins and love hanging out together! Their favorite thing to do is go swimming and race each other in the pond. Make your own adorable cousin duo with this very easy pattern!
Want more FREE cuddle-sized amigurumi animal friend patterns? Check out Burt the Bee Free Amigurumi Pattern and Kozy the Koala Free Amigurumi Pattern.
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this duck crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free duck amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in yellow and orange for the classic duck and green, brown, tan, white, orange, and yellow for the mallard duck. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the orange on both ducks, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply Aran in the color “Blood Orange“. For the brown on the mallard, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Cafe Latte“. For everything else, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the following colors: “Yellow”, “Jelly Bean”, “Linen”, and “White”.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 5.5 in. (14 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Duck and Mallard Duck Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using Yellow or Green Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R12-16: sc in all 66 sts (5 rounds total at 66 sts each)
R17: *sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R18-21: sc in all 72 sts (4 rounds total at 72 sts each)
R22: *sc 11, inc* rep 6 times (78 sts)
R23-24: sc in all 78 sts (2 rounds total at 78 sts each)
R25: *sc 11, dec* rep 6 times (72 sts)
R26: *sc 10, dec* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R27: *sc 9, dec* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R28: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R29: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R30: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
Adding the Eyes
Stop and insert your safety eyes between R22 and R23, spaced 15 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 15 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. See pic. #1.)
R31: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Finish off, leaving a short tail. Stuff the head firmly. Do not sew the hole closed.
Beak (Using Orange or Yellow Yarn)
R1: ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, rotate your work 180 degrees and in the front loops of the ch, inc 1, sc 8, inc 1 (22 sts)
(See pic. #2.) This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 1, sc 9, inc 1, sc 11 (24 sts)
R3: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Flatten the beak and sew the opening closed using the whipstitch (see pic. #3). Do not stuff the beak.
Position the beak to the front of the head over R21 and R23 of the head, approximately, and pin it into place using straight pins. The corners of the beak should curve down slightly (see pics. #4 & #5). Sew the beak to the head using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish.
Body (Using Yellow Yarn for Davy and Starting in Tan Yarn for Maddox)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9-12: sc in all 48 sts (4 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R13: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R14: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)
Switch to brown yarn if you’re making the mallard. Otherwise, continue on with yellow. Watch this video to learn how to neatly switch colors.
R15-16: ac in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R17: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
Switch to white yarn if you’re making the mallard. Otherwise, continue on with yellow.
R18: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.
Sewing the Body to the Head
Since the last round of the head and the last round of the body each have 36 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. If you are making a mallard, be sure that the seams from the color changes are at the back of the duck as you sew it on. When you are about three-fourths of the way around, add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When you are finished sewing, knot the finishing tail we left on the head and the remaining sewing tail from the body together to secure the sewing. Then weave the tails into the body to hide them (see pic. #7).
Wings (Make 2 Using Yellow Yarn for Davy or Starting in Tan Yarn for Maddox)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 2 times, sc 4 (8 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 4 (10 sts)
Switch to brown yarn if you’re making the mallard. Otherwise, continue on with yellow.
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times, sc 4 (12 sts)
R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
Switch to white yarn if you’re making the mallard. Otherwise, continue on with yellow.
R6: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #8). Do not stuff the wings.
Flatten each wing and sew the open end closed (like we did with the beak). Position the wings to either side of the body over the last round of the body (R18) and pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the wings to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #9). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish (see pic. #10).
Feet (Make 2 Using Orange Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *Inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3-4: Sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)
Do not finish off. Flatten the foot closed. Ch 1, then crochet the open ends together with sc sts (see pics. #11 & #12).
There’s no need to stuff the feet. Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Weave the finishing tail down to the center back of the foot (see first two images in pic. #13). Position the feet over R9 and R10 of the body, or so that the feet touch the ground when you sit your duck on a flat surface. Feet should be spaced about 5 sts apart (see last three images in pic. #13). Sew several stitches from the backside of each foot to the body. When you are done, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free duck and mallard duck amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this free duck amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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