Last Updated on January 22, 2025 by Holly Lanier
When I first started my Etsy shop, I had a recurring customer who was always ordering amigurumi monkeys from me. This particular customer was very demanding and picked out some of the ugliest monkey patterns for me to use. Since I was just starting out and needed the business, I obliged her every request. Consequently, I grew to absolutely hate amigurumi monkeys and didn’t know if it was possible for a cute amigurumi monkey design to exist. Well, I don’t mean to toot my own horn, but I think this free monkey amigurumi pattern I designed many years later might just be the cutest amigurumi monkey design out there!
Meet Michael the Monkey! Michael is a happy little monkey who loves eating bananas and drinking coconut water. He’s super friendly, so you’ll have no problem making friends with this cutie!
You can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this monkey amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Supporting my website in this way ensures that I can release many more free patterns in the future!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free monkey amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need For This Free Monkey Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in brown and tan. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my monkey, I used Red Heart Super Saver in color “warm brown” (this color has been discontinued) and Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in color “beige.” You’ll also need a small amount of black yarn for the mouth.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- BLO – back loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 5.5 in. (14 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Monkey Amigurumi Pattern
Head (Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9-17: sc in all 48 sts (9 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R18: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R19: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R20: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Stop and start to stuff the head continuing to stuff as you go.
R21: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R22: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R23: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R24: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off and close up the hole with the remaining tail.
Eye Patches (Make 2 Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 7, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc 1, sc 5 (13 sts), ch 1, turn
By chaining 1 and turning, we now have a half-oval shape. The eye patches are crocheted like a flat piece from here on out as we ch 1 and turn after each row, leaving a straight edge at the bottom of the piece instead of an oval. Watch this video on how to crochet a half-oval piece.
R2: sc 5, inc 3, sc 5 (16 sts), ch 1, turn (see the above collage photo)
R3: sc 5, *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times, sc 5 (19 sts), ch 1, turn
R4: sc 5, *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times, sc 5 (22 sts), ch 1, turn
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert 12mm safety eyes in each patch and secure with the backing. I inserted mine between R1 & 2 of the patch toward the top.
Position the patches on the monkey’s head side by side. I positioned mine with the top of the patch over R11 of the head. I used straight pins to keep them in place while sewing them down. Using the long tail we left, sew the patches to the head. I used the invisible seam method to sew the patches to the head. Check out this video on how to sew with an invisible seam.
Muzzle (Using Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 11, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 10, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, sc 10 (20 sts)
This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Check out this video here to see how to work into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 1, sc 7, inc 2, sc 9, inc 1 (24 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc 1, sc 7, *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 10, inc 1 (28 sts)
R4: sc 2, inc 1, sc 7, *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times, sc 11, inc 1 (32 sts)
R5: sc 3, inc 1, sc 7, *sc 3, inc* rep 2 times, sc 12, inc 1 (36 sts)
R6: sc 3, dec 1, sc 7, *sc 3, dec* rep 2 times, sc 12, dec (32 sts)
R7: sc in all 32 sts (32 sts)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.
Finishing up the Muzzle
Take some black yarn and embroider 2 straight, vertical sts on the last row of the muzzle, about 3 sts apart from each other and one st high. Two rounds down from the nostrils, embroider a small mouth about 2 sts wide and one st high.
Position the muzzle over eye patches just below the eyes. Pin in place to keep it from moving around and sew to the eye patches and head. Stuff the muzzle semi-firmly before you finish sewing it closed.
Ears (Make 2 Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5-7: sc in all 24 sts (3 rounds total at 24 sts each)
R8: inc, sc 11, inc, sc 11 (26 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Flatten the edges of the ear and sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this short video to see how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.
Sew the ears to either side of the head over R8-19 of the head approx. The ears should be curving inward.
Body (Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: sc 9, *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times, sc 9 (36 sts)
R7-9: sc in all 36 sts (3 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R10: sc 9, *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times, sc 9 (30 sts)
R11: sc 9, *dec* rep 6 times, sc 9 (24 sts)
R12-17: sc in all 24 sts (6 rounds total at 24 sts each)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly and sew to the head using the whipstitch. The body should be positioned under the center of the head, or so that it’s not touching the muzzle when you sew it on, in other words, the body should be sewn on behind the muzzle, not on the muzzle. His poochy little tummy should be facing outward, centered between the face.
Arms (Make 2 Starting in Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R4: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Switch to brown yarn
R5a: in the BLO very loosely sl st in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R5: in the BLO sc 6 (6 sts) (This is the last round we will crochet in the BLO.)
This is a special way of changing colors so that there is a neat, clean edge all around. The slip stitch round (R5a) does not add any height to the round and is just the foundation for the next round (R5), so we get the clean edge from the bottom loops of the slip stitches. Watch this video here to learn how to make a clean edge color change. If you wish to make a traditional color change, disregard R5a.
R6-9: sc in all 6 sts (4 rounds total at 6 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. No need to stuff the arms.
Sew the open ends closed, like we did for the ears, and sew to either side of the body just under the head.
Legs (Make 2 Starting in Tan Yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, sc 4 (8 sts)
This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Check out this video here to see how to work into a foundation chain.
R2: inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc (12 sts)
R3: in the BLO sc 5, dec, sc 5 (11 sts) (this is the only round we’ll crochet in the BLO until R5.)
R4: sc 3, dec 2, sc 4 (9 sts)
Switch to brown yarn
R5a: in the BLO very loosely sl st in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R5: in the BLO sc 9 (9 sts) (This is the last round we will crochet in the BLO.) For more info on this color-changing technique, see the arm section of this pattern.
R6: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There is no need to stuff the legs unless you want to.
Sewing the Legs to the Body
Position the legs to either side of the body over R5-8 approx. or however low or high you need to sew them on for your monkey to be able to sit on his own. Legs should be about 9 sts apart from each other on the body. Pin the legs in place using straight pins. Sew the legs to the body using the whipstitch. Once finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body.
Tail (Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2-20: sc all 6 sts (19 rounds total at 6 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Place the tail over the back of the body over R3-6 approx. or adjust it so that the tail helps him to sit on his own when he’s placed on a flat surface. Pin it into place using straight pins then sew it to the back of the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free monkey amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free monkey amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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