Several years ago, I received a commission from a customer to make a look-alike “Turbo Tax Teddy Bear.” Edmond the Cozy Bear is the result! If you’re not sure what the Turbo Tax bear is, take a look at this video clip HERE. I’m excited to be sharing this pattern with you today! Please enjoy this FREE teddy bear amigurumi pattern!
Meet Edmond the Teddy Bear! Edmond is a very special little bear designed to be made and given to someone you love very much. He’s cute and cuddly and will surely bring a smile to anyone’s face!
Disclaimer: Some links in this amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
In my shop, you can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, printable version of this free teddy bear amigurumi pattern HERE. Supporting my website in this way ensures that I can release many more free patterns in the future!
MATERIALS YOU NEED for this Free Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any three colors plus a small amount of black yarn for the mouth. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my bear, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Buff” and Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Forest Green” and “Mid Green”.
- F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
ABBREVIATION KEY for this Free Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- BLO – back loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 8 in. (20.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFO
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. If you would like to learn how to do the “ch 2 method,” then see this video HERE.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. If you’d like to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches, see this video HERE.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. If you want more info on this, check out this short video HERE.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: If you need help stuffing your pieces properly, check out this short video HERE.
Free Teddy Bear Amigurumi Pattern
Head (using tan yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. If you want to know how to start using the “ch 2 method” that I use, watch this video here HERE)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)
R9: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R10: sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)
R11: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R12-14: sc in all 54 sts (3 rounds total at 54 sts each)
R15: sc 23, dec 4, sc 23 (50 sts)
R16: *sc 8, inc* rep 2 times, sc 5, inc 5, sc 3, inc, *sc 8, inc* rep 2 times (60 sts)
R17: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R18-20: sc in all 66 sts (3 rounds total at 66 sts each)
R21: *sc 9, dec* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R22: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R23: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R24: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R25: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)
Face Details
Insert your safety eyes between R16 & 17, 10 sts apart. We are counting the increase stitches as one stitch instead of two stitches. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 10 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye (including the increase sts) and insert the 2nd eye.) Be sure to position the eyes so that the nose we created with the decreases and increases on R15 & 16 is centered between them. Now take two strands of tan yarn (I’m using black for clarity) and securely tie one around the post of each eye, underneath the washer. Do NOT cut the tails. We will leave these to make the eyes indented once the head is completed.
Now embroider his nose using your tapestry needle and black yarn. You’ll embroider the nose about 4 sts wide between R17-18 going up over R18. Now embroider a line going down 2 sts at the center of the nose then two more slanted sts starting at the bottom of that line for his mouth.
R26: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R27: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Stop and start stuffing the head, continuing as you work. Don’t overstuff it, as we want it to be slightly squishy and cuddly. Also, make sure that the tails we left on the eyes are hanging out the bottom. Do not stuff them into the head.
R28: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R29: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R30: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R31: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finishing Head
Finish off. Finish stuffing head. Now we will indent the eyes: Using your tapestry needle, take the first tail and pull it very tightly until the eye is indented to your satisfaction. Still pulling tightly, secure the tail to the bottom of the head with several knots using your tapestry needle. Do the same thing with the second tail. Weave in all ends into the head when you are finished. Now your bear has a cute little nose!
Ears (make 2 using tan yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, make 1 sc in each of the 4 remaining ch sts (8 sts)
This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front or bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch how to crochet into a foundation chain HERE.
R2: inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc (12 sts)
R3: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R4: inc, sc 5, inc, sc 5 (14 sts)
R5: sc in all 14 sts (14 sts)
R6: sc 1, sl st 1 (We won’t be finishing this round. We do this so that the starting foundation chain lines up evenly with the opening of the ear once we sew it closed.)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Sew the open ends closed on both ears so that we have a flat edge for sewing.
Now sew to either side of the head over R6-13. Use straight pins to keep the ears in place while you sew them on so they don’t shift out of place.
Legs (make 2 starting in tan yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: in BLO *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts) (This is the only round you will crochet in the back loops.)
R7-11 for left foot: sc in all 24 sts (5 rounds total at 24 sts each)
Finish off on the 1st leg.
R7-11 for right foot: sc in all 24 sts (5 rounds total at 24 sts each)
Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2nd leg, instead, ch 2
We will now join the feet together and start making the body. The left foot is the one we finished off on, the right foot is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off. (From the bear’s perspective.)
Body (continuing in tan yarn)
R12: Join the right foot to left foot with a sc in the 1st st of the left foot, now sc 13 on the left foot, dec 5, sc 1 in each of the next two chains (these are the chains we made after the last round of the right foot), now we are crocheting on the right foot, dec 5, sc 14, sc 1 in each of the last two chains (42 sts)
Watch a video on how to join amigurumi legs together using chain stitches HERE.
Body Continued
R13: sc 14, inc 5, sc 2, inc 5, sc 16 (52 sts)
R14: sc in all 52 sts (52 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R15-17: sc in all 52 sts (3 rounds total at 52 sts each)
Switch to dark green yarn
R18: sc in all 52 sts (52 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R19-20: sc in all 52 sts (2 rounds total at 52 sts each)
R21: *sc 4, dec* rep 8 times, sc 2, dec (43 sts)
Switch to dark green yarn
R22: sc in all 43 sts (43 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R23-25: sc in all 43 sts (3 rounds total at 43 sts each)
Switch to dark green yarn
R26: sc in all 43 sts (43 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R27: *sc 3, dec* rep 8 times, sc 1, dec (34 sts)
R28: sc in all 34 sts (34 Sts)
R29: *sc 2, dec* rep 8 times, dec (25 sts)
R30: sc in all 25 sts (25 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff semi-firmly, like we did for the head. Positon the body centered under the head and pin it into place using straight pins to keep it in place. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. Just before you finish sewing the body on, add a little more stuffing to the neck.
Collar (using light green yarn)
The collar is worked in rows instead of rounds, and all stitches are worked in the BLO (back loops only).
R1: ch 5, starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc 3, ch 2, turn
R2-28: hdc 3, ch 2, turn (27 rows total at 3 sts each)
Before you finish off, make sure it fits around your bears neck. Depending on your gauge, you may need to make yours longer or shorter. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Place around the neck of the bear and sew the two short ends together. Now sew a few stitches from the back of the collar down to the neck of the bear to secure it to the body. When you are finished, knot the ends to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Arms (make 2 starting in tan yarn)
R1: ch 5, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 4, turn and sc 4 in the front loops of the ch (8 sts)
(see under “Ears” to learn how to work into a foundation chain.)
R2: inc, sc 2, inc 2, sc 2, inc (12 sts)
R3: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R4: inc, sc 5, inc, sc 5 (14 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R5: sc 1, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 5 (16 sts)
R6-7: sc in all 16 sts (2 rounds total at 16 sts each)
Switch to dark green yarn
R8: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R9-11: sc in all 16 sts (3 rounds total at 16 sts each)
Switch to dark green yarn
R12: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)
Switch to light green yarn
R13-14: sc in all 16 sts (2 rounds total at 16 sts each)
R15: *sc 2, dec* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R16: sl st 4 (We won’t be finishing this round. We do this so that the starting foundation chain lines up evenly with the opening of the arm once we sew it closed.)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly then sew the open ends closed. Sew to the body just under the collar, so approx. R27 of the body. (See pic. #14.)
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free teddy bear amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free teddy bear amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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