Free Nativity Set Amigurumi Pattern – Mary, Joseph, and Baby Jesus

Last Updated on December 2, 2025 by Holly Lanier

Back in 2019, I decided I wanted to design an amigurumi nativity set. I had intended to design the full set in a couple of years (or less lol), but it ended up taking me FOUR years to design and then publish all the patterns for this set! I will be sharing the shepherds, sheep, and three wisemen patterns over the coming weeks here on the blog, but for now, I hope you enjoy the first installment. This post includes the patterns for Mary, Joseph, and Baby Jesus. Let me know if you decide to make this set for Christmas this year!

Nothing’s more special than setting up the Nativity set each year during Christmas. But it’s even more special when that Nativity set is something you’ve made yourself! Now you can make your own soft, plushy Nativity scene for yourself or your little ones! 

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this Nativity Set crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Want more FREE Christmas amigurumi patterns? Check out Joy the Mini Christmas Tree and Mini Santa Claus amigurumi patterns!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free Nativity set amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) in the following colors and brand.
• Joseph: For the skin I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige”. For the beard, mustache, and coat, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the colors “Café Latte” and “Warm Brown” (this is a discontinued color. Here is a good alternative: “Wheat”). For the headdress, I used Red Heart Soft in “Chocolate”. For the body and headdress band, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Dark Olive” and “Mid Green”.
• Mary: For the skin, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige”. For the hair, headdress, and body I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Black”, “Arctic Ice”, and “Soft Blue”.
• Manger: For the hay I used Loops & Threads Impeccable in the color “Gold”. For the manger I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Café Latte”.
• DK-weight/light-worsted yarn in beige and cream. I used Paintbox Yarns Simply DK in the following colors.
• Baby Jesus: I used colors “Vanilla Cream” for the skin and “Champagne White” for the body and cocoon.
• F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
• C (2.5 mm) crochet hook
• Two sets of 10.5 mm black safety eyes
• One set of 4.5 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Cardboard
• Straight pins
• Black and pink or red embroidery floss

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• BLO – back loops only
• FLO – front loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

Finished size approximately: Mary & Joseph: 4.5 in (11.5 cm) tall Baby Jesus: 1.75 in (7 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Nativity Set Amigurumi Pattern

Mary & Joseph

Using worsted-weight/Aran-weight yarn and an F (3.75mm) crochet hook. See “Materials You Need” section at the beginning of this post for exact yarn brands and colors used.

Head for Mary & Joseph (Using Beige Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8-15: sc in all 42 sts (8 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R16: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R17: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R18: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Insert your safety eyes between R14 & 15, 9 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 9 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.) For Mary: Using red yarn or embroidery floss, embroider a smile about 2 sts wide centered between the eyes (see pic. #1). Watch this video to learn how to embroider a simple smile. Do not embroider a mouth on Joseph.

R19: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

Start to stuff the head continuing as you work

R20: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Finish off. Set aside until we have made the body.

Body for Mary and Joseph (Using Light Blue Yarn for Mary and Green Yarn for Joseph)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: in BLO sc 30 (30 sts) (this is the only round we’ll crochet in the BLO on the body. See pic. #2.)

Cut a round shape from a piece of cardboard the same size as the bottom of the body (see pic. #3). Fit this in the bottom of the body so that the doll will have a flat base to be able to stand on its own.  Make sure the cardboard fits snugly (see pic. #4).

R7: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R8-12: Sc in all 24 sts (5 rounds total at 24 sts each)

R13: *Sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R14-15: Sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)

R16: *Sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly. Now we will sew the head to the body. Because there are 12 sts on the last round of the head and 12 sts on the last round of the body they will match up perfectly (see 1^st image in pic. #5). Simply use the whipstitch to sew the sts together (see last 2 images in pic. #5). Add a little more stuffing to the neck before you finish closing it up to add extra stability.

Base

To make sure that your doll will be able to stand on their own we will crochet a border around the bottom of the body to create a base. To do this, we will be crocheting into the front loops from R6 of the body. Holding your doll upside down, insert your crochet hook into the first front loop from R6 of the body and make a slip stitch to join the yarn to the body (see pic. #6). Now make 1 sc st in each of the front loops from R6.

When finished, you should have 30 sts (see pic. #7). Now finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Knot the starting tail and the finishing tail together to finish (see last image in pic. #7) and weave the remaining tails into the body. 

Arms for Mary and Joseph (Make 4 Starting in Beige Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (5 sts)

R2: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)

Switch to light blue yarn for Mary or light brown yarn for Joseph. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R3a and R3.

R3a: in the BLO (Back Loops Only) very loosely slip stitch in all 5 sts (5 sts)

R3: in the BLO (back loops only) sc 5 (5 sts) (This is the last round we will crochet in the BLO on the arms.)

R4-5: Sc in all 5 sts (2 rounds total at 5 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. No need to stuff (see pic. #8). Sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #9) and sew to either side of the body just under the head. Do NOT sew arms to Joseph until you’ve made his coat and sewn it to his body.

Joseph

Mustache for Joseph (Make 2 Using Medium Brown Yarn)

Note: When I first designed this pattern, I used a different body design than the one used here. Because of that, I sewed the mustache and beard onto the head before sewing the body on, so you will see the head without the body in the following tutorials. It’s perfectly fine to sew the body to the head before adding the mustache and beard, though.

The mustache is worked in rows rather than rounds, so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of R1.

R1: ch 2, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 3 (3 sts), ch 1, turn

R2: inc, sc 1, inc (5 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #10).

Weave the starting tails up the sides of the mustache pieces to where the finishing/sewing tails are so that they will be easy to weave into the head when we are finished sewing. Position the two pieces to R15 of the head, centered between the eyes. Pin them into place using straight pins while you sew them on to ensure they are sewn on straight. Sew just the inside corners down of each piece (see first 2 images in pic. #11). Make sure you sew them very close to each other so that they look like one piece and there is no skin peeking through (see last image in pic. #11). When finished, knot the ends together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head.

Beard for Joseph (Using Medium Brown Yarn)

Beard is worked in rows rather than rounds so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 18, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 17 (17 st), ch 1, turn

R2-3: sc in all 17 sts, ch 1, turn (2 rows total at 17 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Fold the piece in half lengthwise, then sew the sides together using the whipstitch. No need to stuff (see pic. #12).

Position the beard over the front of the head so that the short edges are placed over R13 of the head (see pic. #13).

Using the whipstitch, we will sew the short edges of the beard to R13 of the head (see pic. #14). I only sewed the two short edges of the beard down and not the middle of the beard. When you finish sewing one edge down, weave your needle and tail through the head to the other side of the beard so that you can sew the second edge down. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body (see pic. #15).

Coat for Joseph (Using Light Brown Yarn)

Coat is worked in rows rather than rounds so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 21, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 20 (20 sts), ch 1, turn (see pic. #16)

R2-6: sc in all 20 sts, ch 1, turn (5 rows total at 20 sts each)

R7: sc 1, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 4, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 1 (16 sts), ch 1, turn

R8-10: sc in all 16 sts, ch 1, turn (3 rows total at 16 sts each)

Do not finish off. We will now crochet a border around the sides and bottom of the coat (see pic. #17).

Starting at the corner where your crochet hook already is, sc 9 along the right edge of the coat (see pic. #18).

When you reach the bottom, sl st 20 along the bottom edge (see pic. #19).

Now sc 9 along the left edge (see pic. #20).

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Place the coat around his neck so that the opening of the coat is evenly centered between the face and pin it into place (see pic. #21). Sew the coat to the neck of the doll using the whipstitch (see pic. #22). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body. Also, weave the starting tail up the side of the coat and into the body to hide it.

Now sew the arms to the sides of the coat (see pic. #23).

Headdress for Joseph (Using Dark Brown Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8-13: sc in all 42 sts (6 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R14: in BLO sc in all 42 sts (42 sts) (This is the only round worked in the BLO. We will use the front loops later on for the headdress band. See pic. #24).

R15: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail.

Making the Bottom of the Headdress

Now we will make the bottom part of the headdress. It is worked in rows instead of rounds.

R16: With the seam from R14 at the back (see pic. #25), join your yarn to any sc on the headdress, then sc 26, leaving 16 sts unworked. Ch 1, turn (see pics. #26 & the first 2 images in pic. #27). (Last 2 images in pic. #27 show us turning and beginning R17.)

R17-28: sc in all 26 sts, ch 1, turn (12 rows total at 26 sts each)

Finish off. We will now crochet a border around the sides and bottom of the headdress. Starting at the top left corner, join yarn with a sl st. Sc 12 along the left edge of the headdress (see pic. #28).

When you reach the bottom, sc 26 along the bottom edge (see the first image in pic. #29). Now sc 12 along the right edge (see the last 2 images in pic. #29).

Finish off and weave in all ends. If you’re using your Joseph for display only, there shouldn’t be a need to sew his headdress to his head. However, if this is for a child, you might want to sew it on just to make it a little extra secure.

Headdress Band for Joseph (Using Light Green Yarn)

Holding headdress upside down, join your green yarn to the first front loop from R14 of the headdress and make one sl st in each of the front loops all the way around (see pic. #30). Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Weave both ends to the inside of the headdress and knot them together to secure. Since this part won’t be visible you don’t have to worry about hiding the knot.

Mary

Headdress for Mary (Using Medium or Dark Blue Yarn)

R1: ch 14, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts, make 3 sc in the last ch, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, make 3 sc, make 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts (30 sts) ch 1, turn (see pic. #31)

We will be keeping the bottom edge flat and will not be crocheting all the way around, but instead stopping and turning at the end of each row so that we are actually crocheting in rows instead of rounds. You will see this demonstrated in the last two images of pic. #31. Also see the flat edge in pic. #32.

R2: *sc 4, inc* rep 5 times, sc 2, inc, sc 2 (36 sts) ch 1, turn

R3: sc 12, *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times, sc 12 (42 sts) ch 1, turn

R4: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)

R5: sc 12, *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times, sc 12 (48 sts) ch 1, turn

R6: sc 3, inc, *sc 7, inc* rep 5 times, sc 4 (54 sts), ch 1, turn

R7-18: sc in all 54 sts (12 rows total at 54 sts each) ch 1, turn

Note: Headdress will naturally start to curve inward as we crochet which is exactly what we want.

Crocheting the Border

Now we will crochet a border along the bottom of the headdress to create a clean edge all the way around.

Starting at the corner edge where your hook is, sc 37 across the bottom edge of the headdress (see pics. #33). Place a stitch marker in the first sc st of the border to keep track of your stitch count (see pic. #34).

When finished (see pics. #35 & #36), finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Place a stitch marker in the “faux” stitch we just made using the invisible finish technique (you can also now remove the stitch marker from the other end of the headdress that we used to keep track of our stitch count). Weave in all loose ends, as we won’t need any of them later on. Do not sew the headdress to the head until we have made the hair.

Hair for Mary (Using Black Yarn)

Hair is crocheted directly onto the headdress. Starting with the stitch that your stitch marker is in, count 13 stitches up from the bottom corner of the headdress and join your black yarn to the 14^th stitch of the headdress (see pic. #37).

*ch 6, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 2 sc in each ch. Make a sl st in the same st you joined the yarn to.* rep 2 times (see pic. #37)

*ch 4, sl st in the next sc* rep 28 times (see pic. #38)

*ch 6, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 2 sc in each ch. Make a sl st in the same st you joined the yarn to* rep 2 times

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see last 2 images in pic. #38). Place the headdress on Mary’s head and position it where you like. Pin it into place with straight pins. Sew the headdress to the head using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle (see pic. #39). Sew the headdress to the head by going in between the “loops” of the hair (see pic. #39). When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave any remaining ends into the head to finish (see pic. #40).

Baby Jesus

I made Baby Jesus using light worsted/DK-weight yarn and a C (2.5mm) crochet hook. See “Materials You Need” section at the beginning of this post for exact yarn brands and colors used.

Head (Using Beige Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4-7: sc in all 18 sts (4 rounds total at 18 sts each)

R8: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Insert 4.5mm eyes between R6 and R7 of the head, spaced 4 sts apart. Using black embroidery thread, stitch a small smile about one stitch wide right between his eyes. Watch this video to learn how to embroider a simple smile (see pic. #41).

Start to stuff the head firmly. Use a chopstick or the back of your crochet hook to help you stuff.

R9: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing then use tail to sew up hole.

Body (Using Cream Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (5 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 5 times (10 sts)

R3-6: sc in all 10 sts (4 rounds total at 10 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #42). Stuff the body firmly and position it under the bottom center of the head. Pin it into place using straight pins and sew to the head using the whipstitch. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.

Swaddle (Using Cream Yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4-8: sc in all 18 sts (5 rounds total at 18 sts each)

R9: sc in the next 14 sts, leaving the last 4 unworked (14 sts), ch 1, turn

We’ll now be working in rows instead of rounds for the rest of the swaddle (see pic. #43).

R10-14: sc in all 14 sts (5 rows total at 14 sts each), ch 1, turn (see pic. #43)

R15: *dec, sc 2* rep 3 times, dec (10 sts) ch 1, turn

R16: *dec, sc 2* rep 2 times, dec (7 sts) ch 1, turn

R17: dec 2, sc 1, dec (4 sts) ch 1, turn

R18: dec 2 (2 sts) ch 1, turn

Now we’ll crochet a border around the top of the swaddle for a clean finish. Starting at the corner where your hook is, sc 8 along the left edge (see pic. #44). At the bottom corner, sl st 4 along the bottom edge in the unworked sts from R9. Sc 8 along the right edge of the cocoon (see pic. #45).

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Weave in all loose ends. Place the baby in the swaddle (see pic. #46).

Manger

I made the manger and hay using worsted-weight/Aran-weight yarn and a G (4.00mm) crochet hook.

Manger (Using Brown Yarn)

R1: ch 10, starting in 2^nd ch from hook make 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, make 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts (18 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would, working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.

R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R3: sc 1, inc, *sc 3, inc* rep 5 times, sc 2 (30 sts)

R4: sc 3, inc, *sc 4, inc* rep 5 times, sc 1 (36 sts)

R5: in BLO *Sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts) (this is the only round we will crochet in the BLO)

R6-8: sc in all 30 sts (3 rounds total at 30 sts each)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Weave in all ends. Cut a piece of cardboard the circumference of the manger bottom and glue it to the inside of the manger. This will give the manger stability and keep it flat on the ground (see pic. #47). Do not stuff.

Hay (Using Golden Yellow Yarn)

R1: ch 10, starting in 2^nd ch from hook make 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, make 1 sc in each of the next 9 sts (18 sts)

This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would, working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.

R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R3: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Finish off. There’s no need to leave a long tail.

Adding the hay

Cut a bunch of strands of gold yarn and using your crochet hook, attach them to the piece we just crocheted. Attach one piece to every st between the 3^rd and 2^nd rounds, then one piece to every st between the 1^st and 2^nd rounds, then one piece to every st down the middle (see pic. #48).

To attach them, insert your hook between two rounds of the oval piece. Fold one of the gold yarn strands in half and loop the center around your hook. Pull the loop about halfway through the front loop, then wrap the two ends under your hook and pull both ends through the yellow loop on your hook. Pull tight (see pic. #49).

Once you are done, place the hay in the manger and arrange it so that there is a dent for the baby, then trim the hay short until you’re satisfied with how it looks (see pic. #51).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free nativity set amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free nativity set amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!