Free Plush Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern – Crochet Tutorial

Last Updated on March 9, 2026 by Holly Lanier

I’m excited to share a brand new design with you today! Meet Callie the Unicorn! I made this unicorn out of plush #6 bulky yarn, and I absolutely love how cuddly and soft she turned out! This is only the second design I’ve used plush yarn with, and it was so much fun. You’ll be seeing many more patterns using this yarn in the near future! But without further ado, please enjoy this FREE plush unicorn amigurumi pattern!

Meet Callie the Unicorn! This sweet unicorn is full of magic and wonder. Her favorite things include wishing on stars, eating strawberry sherbet, and chasing rainbows. She’d make a lovely friend for any unicorn-loving child or grown-up!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this plush unicorn crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Want more FREE fantasy amigurumi patterns? Check out my Free Dragon Amigurumi Pattern!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free plush unicorn amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make this Plush Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

• #6 bulky yarn in the following amounts and colors: 58 grams in the main color (white). 44 grams in a secondary color (pink or purple). A small amount of yellow for the horn. I used Parfait Chunky by Premier Yarns (aff. link). I used colors “Hibiscus” for the pink unicorn, “Haze” for the purple unicorn, and “White” and “Summer Squash” for both.
• A small amount of worsted-weight yarn in the same color as the mane
• I (5.5 mm) crochet hook
• 15 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key for this Plush Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds).

The finished size is approximately 11 in. (28 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this plush unicorn amigurumi pattern are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product from this plush unicorn amigurumi pattern, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Note on Sewing With Plush Yarn:

Sewing with certain brands of plush yarn can be tricky, as it will often shed and split while you are sewing. To avoid this issue, I like to use worsted-weight yarn in the same color as the plush yarn to sew with. I sewed most of the pieces of this pattern together using the original plush yarn tails left on each piece, except for the mane (as indicated in the pattern). If you know the yarn you are using has a tendency to shed and split, however, I would recommend you do this for all sewing in this pattern. Plush yarn hides the worsted-weight yarn remarkably well, so it won’t be noticeable if you decide to go this route. 

Free Plush Unicorn Amigurumi Pattern

Head (Starting in White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 8 (8 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 8 times (16 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 8 times (24 sts)

R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R5: sc 2, inc, *sc 4, inc* rep 5 times, sc 2 (36 sts)

Mark R5 with a st marker, as we will use this as a reference later when we sew the ears on.

R6-8: sc in all 36 sts (3 rounds total at 36 sts each)

Separating the Head and the Body

Watch this video for help with this next section.

We are starting a new round now (R9). Place your stitch marker in the next stitch you make to mark the start of a new round.

R9: sc 1 in each of the remaining 18 sts left from R8. Now, make 1 sc st in each of the 13 chs we made (see pic. #2) (32 sts)

The 17 unworked sts on R9 will be used later to make the body. Don’t worry about them right now (see pic. #3).

R10: sc 23, dec, sc 1, dec, sc 4 (30 sts) (see pics. #4 and #5)

R11: sc in all 30 sts (30 sts)

R12: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

Mark R12 with a st marker, as we will use this as a reference later to insert the safety eyes.

R13: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R14: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts) (see pics. #6 and #7)

Switch to pink yarn

Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R15a and R15.

R15a: in the BLO, very loosely sl st in all 42 sts (42 sts)

R15: in the BLO of the sl sts, sc 42 (42 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)

R16-17: sc in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each) (see pic. #8)

R18: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R19: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R20: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Placing the Eyes

Stop and insert your 15 mm black safety eyes between R12 and 13 of the head, spaced 13 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 13 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 11 visible sts between the two eyes. See pic. #9. Make sure the eyes are placed so that the opening for the body at the back of the head is centered between them. 

R21: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R22: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R23: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail. Sew the hole closed neatly, as it will be visible. Watch this video to learn how to neatly sew the hole closed.

You can now stuff the head through the back opening. Stuff it firmly (see pic. #10). You’ll be able to add more to the back of the head as you create the body in the next step.

Body (Using White Yarn)

Watch the second half of this video for help with this next section.

R1: With the snout pointing up and to the right of you, join your yarn to the first unworked st from R9 of the head by making a sl st (see pic. #11). Make your first sc in the same st you made the sl st, then make 1 sc st in each of the 16 remaining sts. Now, make 1 sc st in each of the 13 ch sts (30 sts) (see pic. #12)

(You might notice small holes on either side of the neck. We will fix them after finishing the body.)

R2-8: sc in all 30 sts (7 rounds total at 30 sts each) (see pics. #13-#15)

Mark R8 with a st marker, as we will use this as a reference later when we sew the arms on.

R9-11: sc in all 30 sts (3 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R12: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R13-18: sc in all 36 sts (6 rounds total at 36 sts each)

Mark R18 with a st marker, as we will use this as a reference later when we sew the legs on.

R19: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Start to stuff the body firmly. Continue to stuff as you close up.

R20: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R21: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R22: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R23: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail (see pic. #16). Sew the hole closed neatly, like we did for the head. Watch this video to learn how to neatly sew the hole closed.

Sewing the Neck Holes Closed

You might notice a small hole on either side of the neck. You can easily fix this by sewing it closed using a piece of yarn and your tapestry needle. Sew it closed by making an “x” so that it roughly matches the other stitches. Do this for both sides of the neck. When you are done, knot the remaining tail with the starting tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body (see pic. #17).

Horn (Using Yellow Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)

R3-4: sc in all 6 sts (2 rounds total at 6 sts each)

R5: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)

R6-7: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #18). There’s no need to stuff the horn.

Position the horn over R10-13 of the head, centered between the eyes (remember the eyes were inserted between R12 and R13 of the head, so you can use that as a reference point for placing the horn). Pin it into place using straight pins (see pics. #19 and #20).

Using your tapestry needle and the yarn tail we left, sew the horn to the head using the whipstitch (see pic #21).

When you are finished, weave the tail back and forth through the bottom of the horn to secure the sewing (see pic. #22).

Mane (Using Pink Yarn)

We will not be stuffing the mane

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)

R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)

R4: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

R5: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)

R6-8: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)

R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)

R10: *inc* rep 8 times (16 sts)

R11: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R12-14: sc in all 20 sts (3 rounds total at 20 sts each)

R15: *sc 3, dec* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R16: *dec* rep 8 times (8 sts)

R17: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

R18: *inc* rep 8 times (16 sts)

R19: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R20-21: sc in all 20 sts (2 rounds total at 20 sts each)

R22: *sc 3, dec* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R23: *dec* rep 8 times (8 sts)

R24-26: sc in all 8 sts (3 rounds total at 8 sts each)

Finish off and leave a tail for sewing (see pic. #23). There’s no need to stuff the mane.

Sew up the remaining hole neatly and weave the tail into the mane. We will not use the tail to sew the mane to the body.

Sewing the Mane to the Body

Position the mane to the back of the body with the starting round of the mane on the top of the head by the horn. The tip of the mane should be positioned right up against the horn. Pin the mane down using straight pins to keep it in place while you sew it on (see pic. #24).

Find some worsted-weight yarn that is as close in color to the mane as possible and cut a long length of it (see pic. #25).

Using that and your tapestry needle, sew the mane to the body and head using the whipstitch. Sew the stitches on the underside of the mane to the stitches on the body to maintain the mane’s shape and to keep the worsted-weight yarn from showing (see pics. #26 and #27).

When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish (see pic. #28).

Ears (Make 2 Using White Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3-5: sc in all 9 sts (3 rounds total at 9 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #29).

Do not stuff the ears; instead, flatten them, and then, for each ear, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch (see first image in pic. #30). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed.

Now pinch the two edges together and sew them together with a couple of stitches (see last two images in pic. #30).

Position the ears to either side of the head, next to the mane over R5 and R6 (where we placed the first stitch marker). Pin them into place using straight pins (see pic. #31).

Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #32). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish (see pic. #33).

Arms (Make 2 Starting in Pink Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 8 (8 sts)

R2-3: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)

Switch to white yarn

Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R4a and R4.

R4a: in the BLO, very loosely sl st in all 8 sts (8 sts)

R4: in the BLO of the sl sts, sc 8 (8 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)

R5: *sc 2, dec* rep 2 times (6 sts)

R6-10: sc in all 6 sts (5 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #34). Do not stuff the arms. On each arm, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed.

Position the arms over R8 of the body (we placed a stitch marker in R8 when we made the body). Pin the arms into place using straight pins (see pic. #35). Sew the arms to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #36).

When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish (see pic. #37).

Legs (Make 2 Starting in Pink Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 8 (8 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)

R3-4: sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)

Switch to white yarn

For the special technique used on R5a through R5, see “Clean Edge Color Change” on page 4 under “Special Stitches & Techniques”.

R5a: in the BLO, very loosely sl st in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R5: in the BLO of the sl sts, sc 12 (12 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)

R6: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R7-13: sc in all 9 sts (7 rounds total at 9 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #38). Do not stuff the legs. On each leg, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed.

Position the legs over R18 of the body (we placed a stitch marker in R18 when we made the body). The legs should be spaced about 2 sts apart. Pin the legs into place using straight pins (see pic. #39). Sew the legs to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #40).

When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish (see pic. #41).

Tail (Using Pink Yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)

R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)

R4: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

R5: *inc* rep 8 times (16 sts)

R6: sc 8, *inc, sc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R7-9: sc in all 20 sts (3 rounds total at 20 sts each)

R10: sc 8, *sc, dec* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R11: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)

R12: *dec* rep 8 times (8 sts)

R13: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #42). Stuff the tail semi-firmly. Use a chopstick or the back of your crochet hook to help you stuff it.

Sewing the Tail to the Body

Position the tail over R16-18 of the back of the body (or however far down you need to place it so that it helps your unicorn sit on her own). When you have the tail positioned to your liking, pin it into place using straight pins (see pics. #43 and #44).

Sew the tail to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #45).

When you are finished, weave the tail back and forth through the bottom of the tail to secure the sewing (see pic. #46).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free plush unicorn amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free plush unicorn amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!