Lately, I’ve been on a kick designing dinosaur patterns, and it reminded me of this dragon amigurumi pattern that I designed several years ago. I absolutely love this pattern, and it’s one of my top ten favorite designs I’ve ever created! I’ve decided to share this pattern FREE on my blog and, I hope that you enjoy this dragon amigurumi pattern as much as I loved designing it.
Meet George the Dragon! George is a playful and imaginative dragon. He loves to pretend that he’s a great hero fighting to protect his fair dragon maiden from some fierce warrior with a sword. George always wins and carries his maiden off into the sunset to live happily ever after.
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Disclaimer: Some links in this dragon amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need to Make This Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted weight yarn (4 ply) in any two complementary colors and cream. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran & AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) And a small amount of cream in DK weight for the horns (see the horn section for details). For the main body, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Peacock Sparkle Metallic,” and for the dark blue wings and details, I used “Dark Country Blue”. For the cream, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Fisherman”.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
- Black embroidery floss
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- hdc – half double crochet
- hdc dec – half double crochet decrease
- dc – double crochet
- trc – triple crochet
- BLO – back loops only
- FLO – front loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 6 in. (15 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this dragon amigurumi pattern are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info for This Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round for this dragon amigurumi pattern, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch in this dragon amigurumi pattern unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Dragon Amigurumi Pattern
Head (using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8-11: sc in all 42 sts (4 rounds total at 42 sts each)
R12: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R13-15: sc in all 48 sts (3 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R16: *sc 7, inc* rep 2 times, hdc 7, inc, *sc 7, inc* rep 3 times (54 sts)
R17: sc 18, *hdc, hdc inc* rep 3 times, hdc 1, sc 29 (57 sts)
R18: sc 18, *hdc, hdc dec* rep 3 times, hdc 1, sc 29 (54 sts)
R19: sc in all 54 sts (54 sts)
R20: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R21: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R22: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R23: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Finish off.
Adding the Face
Insert your 12mm eyes between R15 & 16 of the head spaced 10 sts apart (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 10 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There will be 8 visible sts between the eyes.) The eyes need to be centered between the hdc sts from R16-18 so the 7 hdc sts from R16 need to be visible between the eyes.
Take some black embroidery floss and embroider two slanted eyebrows above the eyes over R13 &14 of the head. The top of the st should be 2 sts from above the eye and the bottom of the st should be about 2 sts from the side of the eye.
Now we will embroider the eye details around the safety eyes. Take some white yarn (or any contrasting color of yarn) and split it down the middle so that it’s half the thickness.
Make a straight stitch just under each eye. You’ll want it to be about 3 sts wide and about one stitch less than halfway around the eye so there should be slightly more of the white stitch toward the outside of the eye than the inside.
Now, take some black yarn and embroider the nostrils over R17 of the head. Each nostril should be about one st tall and spaced about 2 sts apart from each other. Each nostril should be about 3 sts from the eyes.
Stuff the head firmly and then set it aside until we have made the body.
Body (using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer. Just start with 6 sc sts in a magic circle).
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7-11: sc in all 36 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R12: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R13-18: sc in all 30 sts (6 rounds total at 30 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.
Sewing the Body to the Head of the Amigurumi Dragon
We will now sew the body to the head. Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 30 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Align the body to the underside of the head and using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. When you are about three fourths of the way around, you might want to put a little more stuffing into the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head to remaining body tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.
We will now add a stitch to the bridge of the nose to add some shaping. Take a piece of yarn and thread your tapestry needle. Insert your needle through the front of the neck and pull it up through the head, coming out between R15 & 16 of the head, 2 sts from the right eye (see first two images in the first collage below). Make a stitch across the nose that is 4 sts wide (see last image in the below collage) and then pull your needle through the head and back down to the neck, one stitch away from where you pulled the needle through the first time (see first image in the second collage below). Now pull the two ends tight so that the top of the nose is indented (see last two images in the second below collage).
Knot the two ends together to secure them and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.
Head wings (make 2 using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
Head wings are worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row.
**Start with a long starting tail as we will use this tail to sew the wings to the sides of the head later.
R1: ch 6, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 5 chs (5 sts), ch 1, turn
R2: sc 1, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (7 sts), ch 1, turn
R3: sc 7 (7 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail.
Position the wings centered to either side of the head over R8-13 of the head with the short side up against the head. Use straight pins to pin the wings in place so they don’t shift around while you sew them on. Using the long starting tail, sew them to the head using the whipstitch.
When finished, weave the finishing tail down to the sewing tail and knot them together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.
Horns (make 2 using cream sport weight yarn and a 2.75mm crochet hook)
IMPORTANT: I made my horns using sport weight/DK weight yarn and a 2.75mm crochet hook so that they would be smaller and more delicate-looking. If you do not have access to this weight of yarn using worsted weight yarn is fine, your horns will just turn out larger than mine. If you decide to use worsted weight yarn instead of sport/DK weight, then do not complete R5 of the horns just finish off after R4. This way your horns won’t be too big.
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: inc, sc 3 (5 sts)
R3: inc, sc 4 (6 sts)
R4: inc, sc 5 (7 sts)
R5: inc, sc 6 (8 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the horns.
Position the horns over R5-7 of the head spaced 4-5 sts apart from each other. I placed mine so that the curve from the increases was at the top, but you can place the curves wherever you like. Pin them in place using straight pins.
Using the long tail we left, sew the horns to the head using the whipstitch. When finished, knot the end to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.
Tummy piece (using cream worsted weight yarn)
Tummy piece is worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row.
R1: ch 8, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in each of the next 7 chs (7 sts), ch 1, turn
R2-11: sc in all 7 sts, ch 1, turn (10 rows total—7 sts)
R12: dec, sc 3, dec (5 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Take some dark blue yarn and make a large knot at one end so the yarn won’t pop out of the tummy piece.
Pull your yarn and needle through the tummy piece and embroider horizontal stripes across the front, spaced two rows apart. You can make these stripes as long or short as you like. I ended up with six total stripes. When finished, knot the remaining yarn to the backside of the tummy piece to secure it.
When finished, place the tummy piece centered over the front of the body and pin it in place using straight pins. The decreases from R12 should be at the top, under the neck.
To sew the top and bottom edges of the tummy piece to the body we will use the whipstitch.
Sew the sides down by going in and out of the holes at the edges of the piece. Step 1: Grab a stitch from the body and pull your needle up through the tummy piece. Step 2: Go over one stitch on the tummy piece and pull your needle through the tummy piece and a stitch from the body. Repeat steps 1 and 2 all the way around.
When finished, knot the ends to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Arms (make 2 using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2-11: sc in all 6 sts (10 rounds total at 6 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
On each arm, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted arm.
Place the arms on either side of the body over R13-16 of the body so that the arms are angled slightly up. The arms should be overlapping the tummy piece. Pin the arms in place using straight pins.
For each arm, sew the top flat edge of the arm to the body using the whipstitch.
Weave the sewing tail down through the body and bring it up again under the paw’s tip (see the collage photo below). Pull your needle and yarn through the tip of the paw, and then go over one stitch on the paw from where you came up. Pull your needle and yarn through the paw and to the back of the body.
Leave the tail hanging at the back of the body until the second arm is sewn on. Once both arms are sewn on and the paws secure, weave the second arm’s tail to where the first arm’s tail is at the back of the body and secure them together with a knot. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Legs (make 2 using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3-5: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R6: *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R7-8: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R9: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R10: *sc 1, inc* 6 times (18 sts)
R11-14: sc in all 18 sts (4 rounds total at 18 sts each)
R15: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R16: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R17: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the front of the feet firmly, but stuff the backs/thighs very lightly so they are still moldable. Flatten the backs of the legs.
Sewing the Legs on
On each leg, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing just like we did for the arms. Place the legs on either side of the body with the flat edge of the legs (the backs of the thighs) stretching over R9-11 of the body approx. The legs should overlap the tummy piece slightly and the edges of the feet will be spaced about 4 sts from each other.
Pin the legs in place using straight pins to keep everything in place. Once you’ve done this, place your dragon on a flat surface and make sure he can sit up on his own. If he cant, you need to adjust the legs by placing them lower or higher than R9-11 so that he’s able to sit on his own.
When you have the legs placed just right, sew the flat back edge to the body using the whipstitch.
Weave the sewing tail through the body and bring it up again under the middle part of the leg just behind the foot. Pull your needle and yarn through the middle of the leg and then go over one stitch on the leg from where you came up and pull your needle and yarn all the way through the leg and to the back of the body (see pic. #46).
Leave the tail hanging at the back of the body until the second leg is sewn on. Once both legs are sewn on, weave the second leg’s tail to where the first leg’s tail is at the back of the body and secure them together with a knot (like we did with the arms). Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish. The legs are now securely anchored to the sides of the body.
Tail (using medium blue worsted weight yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
R4: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
R5: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
R6: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts)
R7: sc in all 10 sts (10 sts)
R8: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)
R9: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R10: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)
R11: sc in all 14 sts (14 sts)
R12: inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
R13: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Stuff the tail firmly and pin it to the back of the body using straight pins over R5-11 of the body or however far down you need to sew it on so that your dragon is able to sit on his own. The increases on the tail should be facing up so that the tip of the tail is pointing upwards.
Sew the tail to the body using the whipstitch. When finished, knot the end to the body to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.
Wings (make 2 using dark blue worsted weight yarn)
Wings are worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row.
R1: ch 2, starting in 2nd ch from the hook, inc (2 sts), ch 1, turn
R2: *inc* rep 2 times (4 sts), ch 1, turn
R3: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts), ch 1, turn
R4: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts), ch 1, turn
R5: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts), ch 1, turn
R6: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts), ch 1, turn
R7: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts), ch 1, turn
R8: inc, sc 13 (15 sts), ch 1, turn
R9: sc 14, inc (16 sts), ch 1, turn
R10: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 1, in the next st trc 2 then ch 2 then make 2 more trc in the same st, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1 in each of the remaining 8 sts (19 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Sewing the Wings to the Amigurumi Dragon Body
Place the wings onto the back of the body so that R10 is facing up. Pin the wings in place using straight pins. Sew the short back edge of the wings to R12-15 of the body at an angle so that the top edge of the wings touch and the bottoms flare out slightly. Sew the wings on using the whipstitch.
If your wings won’t stay forward from just sewing the short edge down and keep falling back, then sew a few sts down at the top of the wings (that is, R10. See below photo with the white arrows).
Knot the ends when finished to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish. When finished, weave the starting tail from R1 up the side of the wing to the back of the body so that you can knot it to secure it and hide the tail in the body.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free dragon amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free dragon amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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