Free Scarecrow Amigurumi Pattern – Easy Crochet Tutorial

Last Updated on June 11, 2025 by Holly Lanier

Maybe a scarecrow is not one of the first things you think of when you think about Fall, but you’d have to admit that they scream fall vibes just as much as pumpkin pie, hay bales, and crisp Autumn leaves! I’m so excited to share this unique and adorable free scarecrow amigurumi pattern with you today. This scarecrow would make the perfect addition to your Autumn decorations or Thanksgiving tablescape this year. I hope you enjoy making one (or two!) this fall season!

Meet Cornelius the Scarecrow! Cornelius’s favorite season is, of course, Autumn. He loves standing proud and tall in the middle of a sunny pumpkin patch, watching all the children pick out their favorite pumpkin to take home. Cornelius would love to be your friend and be the guardian of your pumpkin patch!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this scarecrow crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free scarecrow amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make this Free Scarecrow Amigurumi Pattern

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in tan, dark brown, light brown, green, blue, and golden yellow. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my scarecrow, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige” for the skin. For the light and dark browns, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the colors “Café Latte” and “Warm Brown” (the color “Warm Brown” has been discontinued). For the blue, green, and yellow, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Dark Country Blue”, “Dark Olive”, and “Sungold”.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 10.5 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins
• Black embroidery floss
• Gold embroidery floss
• Sharp embroidery needle
• Pink and dark brown felt

Abbreviation Key for This Free Scarecrow Amigurumi Pattern

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• BLO – back loops only
• FLO – front loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 7.5 in (19 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Scarecrow Amigurumi Pattern

Head (using tan yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9-18: sc in all 48 sts (10 rounds total at 48 sts each)

R19: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R20: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

Adding the Face

Insert your 10.5 mm eyes between R17 & 18 of the head spaced 9 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 9 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 7 visible sts between the two eyes. See pic. #1).

Take some black embroidery thread and embroider his mouth using the backstitch. You’ll make the mouth one round below the eyes. Use pic. #2 as a guide.

Cut out two round circles of pink felt and glue (or sew) them to the sides of the head for cheeks. They should be positioned about one stitch away from the eyes with the top of the cheek lined up with the middle of the eye (see pic. #3).

Now cut out a small triangle of dark brown felt (see pic. #4) and glue it right between the eyes for the nose (see pic. #5).

Continuing With the Head

Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you close the head up. Watch this video to see how to stuff amigurumi heads to prevent gaping holes in the fabric.

R21: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R22: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R23: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

Finish off. Leave a short tail. Do not sew the opening closed. Set head aside until we make the body (see pic. #6).

Legs (make 2 starting in golden yellow yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

Switch to blue yarn

R3: in BLO sc 9 (9 sts) (This is the only round we will crochet in the BLO on the legs. See pic. #7.)

R4-5: sc in all 9 sts (2 rounds total at 9 sts each)

Making the Body

R7-8: sc in all 26 sts (2 rounds total at 26 sts each)

Switch to green yarn

R9: sc in all 26 sts (26 sts)

Switch to dark brown yarn

Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R10a through R11.

R10a: in the BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 26 sts (26 sts)

R10: in the BLO sc 26 (26 sts)

Switch to green yarn

R11a: in the BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 26 sts (26 sts)

R11: in the BLO sc 26 (26 sts) (This is the last round we will crochet in the BLO on the body.)

R12: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times, sc 2 (20 sts)

R13: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)

R14: dec, sc 16, dec (18 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #12). We will now make the shirt trim.

Shirt trim (using green yarn)

Holding the doll upside down, join your yarn to the green front loops from R10a with a sl st. Make one sc st in each of the 26 front loops around (see pic. #13). Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique.

Knot the starting tail and the finishing tail together to secure your work and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish (see pic. #14).

Sewing the Body to the Head

Stuff the legs and body firmly. Because there are 18 sts on the last round of the head and 18 sts on the last round of the body they will match up perfectly (see pic. #15).  

Align the body to the underside of the head carefully so that the eyes and the feet line up evenly (see pic. #16). Pin the body and head together using straight pins to make sure they stay positioned correctly while you are sewing them together.

Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together (see pic. #17). Keep checking the position of the body as you are sewing to make sure it is still aligned properly and not shifting too much. When you are about three fourths of the way around, you might want to add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head to the remaining sewing tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish (see pic. #18).

Adding the Leg Fringe

To make the hay fringe around the bottom of the legs, cut nine 4-inch strands of golden yellow yarn (see pic. #19).

We will attach one strand to each of the front loops of R3. To do this, hold the doll upside down and insert your hook into the first front loop of R3 of the legs. Fold one of the yellow yarn strands in half and loop the center around your hook. Pull the loop about halfway through the front loop then wrap the two ends under your hook and pull both ends through the yellow loop on your hook. Pull tight (see pic. #20).

Repeat these steps for all 9 front loop sts. When you are finished, trim the ends as short as you like (see pic. #21).

Then, take your tapestry needle and separate the yarn plys to fray the ends (see pic. #22). When you are finished, you might need to do a little extra trimming of the edges until you are satisfied with the look. Repeat this for both legs. See pic. #23 for the finished feet.

Arms (make 2 starting in golden yellow yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)

Switch to green yarn

R3: in BLO sc in all 8 sts (8 sts) (This is the only round we will crochet in the BLO on the arms. See pic. #24.)

R4-6: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #25). To make the hay fringe around the arms, follow the same instructions we did for the fringe around the legs. The only difference is that you will only need 8 strands of yellow yarn (see pic. #26). After you add the fringe on the arms and fray it, don’t do the final trim until after you have sewn the arms to the body.

Sewing the Arms to the Body

Stuff the arms and position them to either side of the body just under the head, making sure that they are lined up evenly with the legs (see pic. #28). Pin the arms into place using straight pins. Sew the arms to the sides of the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #27). When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish (see pic. #28).

Hat (starting in light brown yarn)

I crocheted the entire hat in the BLO (back loops only) except for R21, which is done in both loops, and R22, which is done in the FLO (front loops only). Doing this gave me a slightly looser fabric, helping me shape the hat and give it a droopy, oversized look. Watch this video to see the difference between crocheting in both loops, back loops, and front loops.

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)

R2: BLO *inc* rep 4 times (8 sts)

R3: BLO *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)

R4: BLO *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R5: BLO *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R6: BLO *sc 4, inc* rep 4 times (24 sts)

R7: BLO *sc 5, inc* rep 4 times (28 sts)

R8: BLO *sc 6, inc* rep 4 times (32 sts)

R9: BLO *sc 7, inc* rep 4 times (36 sts)

R10: BLO *sc 8, inc* rep 4 times (40 sts)

R11: BLO *sc 9, inc* rep 4 times (44 sts)

R12: BLO *sc 10, inc* rep 4 times (48 sts)

R13: BLO *sc 11, inc* rep 4 times (52 sts)

R14-19: BLO sc in all 52 sts (6 rounds total at 52 sts each)

Making the Hat Band and Brim

Switch to blue yarn (watch this video for help with color changes.)

Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R20a through R21.

R20a: in the BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 52 sts (52 sts)

R20: in the BLO sc 52 (52 sts)

R21: in BOTH loops sc in all 52 sts (52 sts)

Switch to light brown yarn

R22: in the FLO *sc 1, inc* rep 26 times (78 sts)

R23: BLO sc in all 78 sts (78 sts)

R24: BLO *sc 4, inc* rep 15 times, sc 3 (93 sts)

R25-26: BLO sc in all 93 sts (2 rounds total at 93 sts each)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. See pic. #29.

Adding the Patch to the Hat

Cut a small square of dark brown felt (pic. #30) and, using your sharp sewing needle, sew it to the side of the hat with straight stitches just above the blue band (see pic. #31). Use golden yellow embroidery thread or some other contrasting color for the stitches.

Adding the Fringe to the Hat

To make the hay fringe around the hat, cut fifty-two 4-inch strands of golden yellow yarn. We will attach one strand to each of the back loops of R22. To do this, insert your hook into the first back loop of R22. Fold one of the yellow yarn strands in half and loop the center around your hook. Pull the loop about halfway through the back loop then wrap the two ends under your hook and pull both ends through the yellow loop on your hook. Pull tight (see pic. #32).

Repeat these steps for all 52 back loop sts. When you are finished, trim the ends to the edge of the hat (see pics. #33 & #34).

Then, take a fine tooth comb and brush out the ends to separate the strands (see pic. #35). Since there was more fringe on the hat than the arms and legs, I used a comb instead of my tapestry needle to separate the strands since it was faster with the comb.

When you are finished, you might need to do a little extra trimming of the edges until you are satisfied with the look (see pic. #36).

Finishing up

Weave in all the loose ends from the color changes into the stitches of the inside of the hat neatly. Place the hat on your scarecrow’s head and fold the tip and squish the sides in until it’s shaped to your liking (see pic. #37 to see how I shaped my hat). If you want to sew the hat to his head, use the finishing tail from R26 to do so.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free scarecrow amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free scarecrow amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!

Want more festive Fall fun? Check out my FREE Baby Ghost Amigurumi Pattern or my free Mini Pumpkins Amigurumi Pattern!