Two years ago, I designed this baby pumpkin as a companion to my baby ghost. This kawaii little pumpkin is perfect for the Fall season and Halloween. Since his hat is optional and removable, he’d make a great Fall decor piece. Then, when Halloween rolls around, you could add his little hat for a spooky vibe! I hope you enjoy this cute Halloween pumpkin amigurumi pattern!
Meet Jimmy the Baby Pumpkin! Jimmy has always been the runt of the patch due to his small size. This year, however, Jimmy is determined to prove himself at the county fair and is ready to take on the town in his new, dashing hat. He’s a pumpkin on a mission and he’s ready to show his family that he’s not too little to do the big stuff!
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this pumpkin crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this cute Halloween pumpkin amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need to Make this Halloween Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in orange, black, and a small amount of green. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my pumpkin, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Carrot“. For the hat, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Black” and “Mid Green“.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 9 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
- Black embroidery floss
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together). For this pattern, I used the traditional decrease instead of the invisible decrease.
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- BLO – back loops only
- FLO – front loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 5 in (12.5 cm) tall with the hat on and 3.5 in (9 cm) without the hat. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Cute Halloween Pumpkin Amigurumi Pattern
Pumpkin (using orange yarn)
(All rounds are worked in the back loops only. Watch this video here to see the difference between crocheting through both loops, back loops, and front loops.)
Because we will be working in the BLO, our little pumpkin will naturally indent in the center (see pic. #1). This is totally normal and works in our favor since we want both the bottom and top of our pumpkin to be dented for easier shaping.
R1: ch 2, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: BLO *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: BLO *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: BLO *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: BLO *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: BLO *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: BLO *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: BLO *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9-19: BLO sc in all 48 sts (11 rounds total at 48 sts each)
Adding the Face
Insert your 9mm eyes between R12 & 13 of the head spaced 9 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 9 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 7 visible sts between the two eyes. See pic. #2).
Take some black embroidery floss and embroider a straight stitch mouth right between his eyes about 3 sc sts wide (see pic. #3).
Finally, take some pink yarn and embroider some little cheeks on either side of the head. Each cheek should be embroidered between R11 & 12 of the head and should be about 1 sc st wide, one stitch away from the bottom of the eyes (see pics. #4 & #5).
R20: BLO *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R21: BLO *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R22: BLO *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Stop and start to stuff the pumpkin, continuing to stuff as we work. We want him to be stuffed firmly enough so that he holds his shape (see pic. #6) but not so firmly that we’re not able to give him ridges later. Also, don’t stuff the bottom or the top so firmly that we lose the indent (see pic. #7 & #8).
R23: BLO *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R24: BLO *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R25: BLO *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R26: BLO *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off (see pics. #6 & #8), leaving about a 70-inch (178 cm) tail that we will use to make the ridges.
Making the Ridges for our Pumpkin
We will now create the ridges on our pumpkin. If you do better with video instructions, please check out this video showing how to create the ridges step-by-step. (This video is for a different pattern, but the ridges on those pumpkins are created the same way as the ridges for this pumpkin. They’ll just be spaced slightly differently because this pumpkin is bigger than the one in the video.)
Thread your extra long tapestry needle (pic. #9) with the long tail we left after finishing off.
Making the Ridges
Starting at the center top hole of the pumpkin where we finished off, draw your needle through to the bottom center of the pumpkin and pull (pic. #10).
Now pull the yarn up around the back of the pumpkin so there’s a line across the back and again insert your needle into the top of the pumpkin and draw the yarn down from the top hole to the bottom, pulling gently so that it’s slightly indented. Don’t pull too tightly because we don’t want the pumpkin to lose its shape. We want to pull it just tight enough so that it’s indented and makes nice humpy pumpkin ridges all around without completely flattening the pumpkin.
Keep pulling the yarn through the top and bottom of the pumpkin, wrapping the yarn over the pumpkin to create the ridges (use pics. #11, #12, & #13 as a guide). We will be repeating this wrapping process over and over until there are nine ridges total (see last image in pic. #13).
The last two lines will be over the front of the face very close to the eyes (see pic. #14).
When you are finished, weave in the ends to secure and finish off. See pic. #15 for the finished pumpkin.
Stem (using brown yarn)
R1: ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, make 1 sc in each of the next 6 chs (6 sts), ch 1, turn
R2-5: sc in all 6 sts, ch 1, turn (4 rows total at 6 sts each) (see pic. #16)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #17).
Fold the square in half lengthwise and sew the two ends together to create a tube shape (see pic. #18).
Once finished, weave the sewing tail down to the opposite end of the stem where the starting tail is (see pic. #19).
Place the stem on top of the pumpkin and sew the bottom edge of the stem to the center top of the pumpkin using the whipstitch (see pic. #20). Watch this video to see how I sewed the stem on my pumpkin.
Once finished, knot the starting tail and the sewing tail together to secure the sewing and weave the two tails into the body to finish (see pic. #21).
See pic. #22 for the finished pumpkin.
Hat (starting in black yarn)
I crocheted the entire hat in the BLO (back loops only) except for R20, which is done in the FLO (front loops only). Doing this gave me a slightly looser fabric, giving the hat a droopy, oversized look. Watch this video to see the difference between crocheting in both loops, back loops, or front loops.
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: BLO *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: BLO *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R4: BLO *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R5: BLO *sc 4, inc* rep 3 times (18 sts)
R6: BLO *sc 5, inc* rep 3 times (21 sts)
R7: BLO *sc 6, inc* rep 3 times (24 sts)
R8: BLO *sc 7, inc* rep 3 times (27 sts)
R9: BLO *sc 8, inc* rep 3 times (30 sts)
R10: BLO *sc 9, inc* rep 3 times (33 sts)
R11: BLO *sc 10, inc* rep 3 times (36 sts)
R12: BLO *sc 11, inc* rep 3 times (39 sts)
R13: BLO *sc 12, inc* rep 3 times (42 sts)
R14: BLO *sc 13, inc* rep 3 times (45 sts)
R15: BLO *sc 14, inc* rep 3 times (48 sts)
R16: BLO *sc 15, inc* rep 3 times (51 sts)
R17: BLO *sc 16, inc* rep 3 times (54 sts)
Making the Hat Brim
Switch to green yarn (Watch this video to see how to make a “clean edge” color change).
R18-19: BLO sc in all 54 sts (2 rounds total at 54 sts each)
Switch to black yarn
R20: in FLO (front loops only) *sc 5, inc* rep 9 times (63 sts) (see pic. #23)
Resume crocheting in BLO for the rest of the hat
R21: BLO sc 3, inc, *sc 6, inc* rep 8 times, sc 3 (72 Sts) (we are staggering the increases in this round so that they are not stacked over the increases from R20. This just creates a rounder, cleaner look.)
R22: BLO sc in all 72 sts (72 Sts) (see pic. #24)
Finishing up
Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique and leave a long tail for sewing. If you wish to sew the hat to your pumpkin’s head, then do so now with the long tail we left. Otherwise, neatly weave in all ends. You can leave the hat pointy or shape it however you like by smooshing it in like I did (see pics. #25 & #26). Experiment with what shape you like best!
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free Halloween pumpkin amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this cute Halloween pumpkin amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
Be sure to check out some of my other Halloween patterns, like Scout the Baby Ghost or my Cuddle-Sized Ghost pattern.
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