Last Updated on September 1, 2025 by Holly Lanier
I’m excited to share yet another free dinosaur amigurumi pattern with you today! I loved designing this little stegosaurus, and he makes the perfect companion for my T. rex amigurumi pattern and triceratops amigurumi pattern! Without further ado, please enjoy this free stegosaurus amigurumi pattern! Don’t forget to share your makes with me on Facebook or Instagram!


Meet Sammy the Stegosaurus! Sammy may have one of the tiniest brains of any animal, but what he lacks in brains, he makes up for in his friendly demeanor and sweet personality. He’s also a loyal and faithful companion and will always stick by your side no matter what!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this stegosaurus dinosaur crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free stegosaurus amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4 ply) in two complementary colors. (U.K. equivalent is Aran & AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my stegosaurus, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Hot Orchid” and “Mixed Berry”.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 10 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- BLO – back loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 7 in. long and 5 in. tall (18 cm tall and 13 cm long). (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Stegosaurus Amigurumi Pattern

Body starting with the tail (using light purple yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case you will make a magic circle and make 4 sc in the magic circle. If you want to know how to start using the “ch 2 method” that I use, watch this video here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6PSIKlj1t90 )
R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)
R3: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)
R4: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts)
R5: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)
R6: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)
R7: inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)
R8: inc, sc 14, inc (18 sts)

R9: sc 2, inc, sc 1, inc, sc 7, *inc, sc 2* rep 2 times (22 sts)
R10: sc, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 7, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 3 (26 sts)
R11: sc 3, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 1 (30 sts)
R12: sc, inc, sc 4, inc, sc 11, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 4 (34 sts)
R13: sc 4, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 13, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 1 (38 sts)
R14: sc 6, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 15, inc, sc 8, inc (42 sts)
R15: sc 6, inc, sc 6, inc, sc 17, inc, sc 9, inc (46 sts)
Making the Body
R16-23: sc in all 46 sts (8 rounds total at 46 sts each) (see first two images in pic. #2)

R24: sc 8, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 14, dec, sc 8, dec (42 sts)
R25: sc 7, dec, sc 7, dec, sc 13, dec, sc 7, dec (38 sts)
Stop and start to stuff the tail and body. Continue to add stuffing as you go (see last two images in pic. #2).
R26: *sc 6, dec* rep 2 times, sc 12, dec, sc 6, dec (34 sts)
R27: *sc 5, dec* rep 2 times, sc 12, dec, sc 4, dec (30 sts)
R28: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R29: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R30: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts) (see pics. #3 & #4)


Making the Head
R31: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R32: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R33: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts) (see pics. #5 and #6)


R34-37: sc in all 30 sts (4 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R38: *dec* rep 6 times, sc 18 (24 sts) (the 6 dec sts need to be centered at the top of the head. Depending on your personal tension, you may need to adjust where they are placed. That is, you may need to move them more to the left or right until they are centered correctly. Use the tail as a guide to know what the center is.)
R39: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
Stop and insert 10 mm safety eyes between R37 and R38 of the head, spaced 9 sts apart. (TIP: Insert the 1st eye. Count 8 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 7 visible sts between the two eyes.) Make sure that the tail is centered between the two eyes when you’re looking at him head-on before you secure the safety eyes (see pic. #7). You may need to adjust the eye placement depending on your personal tension and where you placed the 6 dec sts from R38.

R40: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R41: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off and leave a tail. Finish stuffing the head firmly, then, using the tail we left and your tapestry needle, neatly sew the hole closed using the invisible finish technique.

Small plates (make 4 total. Make two in dark purple and two in light purple)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R6: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R7: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Do not stuff. Instead, flatten each plate, and then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #10). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece. Set aside until we have made the large plate.

Large plate (make one using light purple yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R6: sc in all 15 sts (15 sts)
R7: *sc 3, dec* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R8: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the plate, and sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #10). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.
Position the plates over the center back of the stegosaurus. The large plate should be positioned between the four small plates, with two small plates on either side of the large plate. Starting with the small, light purple plate, position it over R7-9 of the back of the body. Each plate after that will be spaced approximately two rounds apart from the other (see pic. #14). Pin the plates into place using straight pins (see pics #11, #12, & #13).




Using your tapestry needle, sew the plates to the back of the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #15).

When you are finished sewing a plate on, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body. As you sew the plates down, be sure to periodically check that they are directly centered over the back and not shifting to the sides (see pic. #13). Adjust accordingly as you go.
Legs (make 4 using light purple yarn)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: in BLO sc in all 12 sts (12 sts) (this is the only round we will crochet in the BLO) (watch this video to see the difference between crocheting in the back loops only and both loops.)
R4: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There is no need to stuff the legs.
Position the legs on the underside of the body with the back legs over R14 through R18 of the body and the front legs over R21 through R25 of the body. Pin the legs into place using straight pins (see pic. #16).

Before sewing the legs on, place your stegosaurus on a flat surface to be sure he can stand on his own and that the legs are correctly positioned. Using your tapestry needle, sew the legs to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #17).

When you are finished sewing each leg on, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish (see pic. #18).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free stegosaurus amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!


Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this free stegosaurus amigurumi pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this free stegosaurus amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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