Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi Pattern – Free Crochet Tutorial

This week’s free Christmas in July pattern is here! I’m excited to share the pattern for this mini Santa Claus Amigurumi. I spent many hours designing this little one and I hope you spend many enjoyable hours making your own mini Santa. He would make a great companion alongside my other mini Christmas amigurumi patterns like Paddy the Mini Polar Bear and Joy the Mini Christmas Tree.

Meet Mini Santa Claus! He is cute and tiny, and of course, he loves Christmas! He also has a weakness for all kinds of toys and for Mrs. Claus. Oh, and he’s also quite fond of milk and cookies!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this mini Santa Claus amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free mini Santa Claus amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make This Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in red, white, black, beige, and a small amount of gold. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Red”, “Black”, “White”, and “Sungold”. For the skin, I used Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige”.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 9 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins
• Pom Pom maker

Abbreviation Key for This Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• FLO – front loops only
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size of the mini Santa Claus amigurumi is approximately 5.5 in. (14 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this blog post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Head (using skin-colored yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. If you want to know how to start using the “ch 2 method” that I use, watch this video here: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/6PSIKlj1t90)

R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7-13: sc in all 36 sts (7 rounds total at 36 sts each)

R14: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 st)

R15: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Stop now and insert the eyes. Insert your safety eyes between R12 & 13, 7 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 7 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 5 full visible stitches from the head between the eyes. See pic. #1.) Start to stuff the head firmly.

R16: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail. Finish stuffing head firmly and set head aside for now. Do not sew the opening of the head closed.

Legs (make 2 starting in black yarn)

Feet are made separately then joined together to create the body.

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 3 times (9 sts)

Switch to red yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R4a and R4.

R4a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R4: in BLO sc in all 9 sts (9 sts) (this is the only round we will crochet in the back loops until R7)

Finish off on the 1^st leg. Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2nd leg (see 1^st image in pic. #2).

We will now join the feet together and start making the body. The left foot is the one we finished off on, the right foot is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off (from the doll’s perspective).

Joining the Legs Together (continuing in red yarn)

R5: Join the right leg to the left leg with a sc in the 1^st st of the last round you made on the left leg (see the 2^nd and 3^rd images in pic. #2), now sc 1, inc, *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times, finish joining the legs together by making a sc in the next st on the right leg (see 1^st 2 images in pic. #3), then sc 1, inc, *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (24 sts) (see pic. #4 to see legs fully joined)

Watch this video to see how to join the legs together.

You will notice a hole in between his legs (see 1^st image in pic. #5). To close this up, pull the finishing tail from the left foot (see 2^nd image in pic. #5) down through the hole (see last image in pic. #5) and using your tapestry needle, sew the opening closed (see pic. #6). When finished, weave the tail back up to the inside of the body and make a knot inside to secure the sewing.

Making the Body (Continuing in the Round Using Red Yarn)

R6: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R7: in BLO sc in all 24 sts (24 sts) (See pic. #7. This is the only round we will crochet in the back loops until R9a. We will use the front loops from this round later to create the white fringe on his coat.)

R8: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

Switch to black yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R9a and R9.

R9a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R9: in BLO sc in all 24 sts (24 sts) (see 1^st image in pic. #8)

Switch to red yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R10a and R10.

R10a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R10: in BLO sc in all 24 sts (24 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO) (see 2^nd image in pic. #8)

R11: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R12: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see last image in pic. #8). Stuff the legs and body firmly.

Sewing the Body to the Head

Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 18 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly (see pic. #9).

Align the body to the underside of the head carefully so that the eyes and the feet line up evenly (see pic. #10). Pin the body and head together using straight pins to make sure they stay positioned correctly while you are sewing them together.

Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together (see 1^st image in pic. #11). Keep checking the position of the body as you are sewing to make sure it is still even and not shifting too much. When you are about three fourths of the way around, you might want to add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head to the remaining sewing tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish (see last 2 images in pic. #11). See pic. #12 to see the body sewn on.

Coat fringe (using white yarn)

To make the white fringe on his coat, turn the doll upside down and insert your hook into the first front loop from R7 of the body. Make a slip stitch to join the yarn to the body. Now, make one slip stitch in each of the 24 front loops (24 sts) (see pic. #13)

Finish off neatly using the invisible finish technique. Weave the remaining tail into the body to finish (see pic. #14).

Now we will take a length of gold/yellow yarn and our tapestry needle and embroider the belt. To do this, follow the visual instructions in pic. #15.

When finished, weave the starting tail and the finishing tail through the body and to the back. Make sure the tails from both ends come through the same stitch at the back as seen in the first image of pic. #16. Now knot the two tails together to secure them and weave the tails into the body again to finish (see last 2 images in pic. #16).

Arms (make 2 starting in skin-colored yarn)

R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)

R2: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)

Switch to white yarn (we won’t be doing the clean edge color change for R3).

R3: sc in all 5 sts (5 sts)

Switch to red yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R4a and R4.

R4a: in BLO very loosely slip stitch in all 5 sts (5 sts)

R4: in BLO sc in all 5 sts (5 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)

R5-6: sc in all 5 sts (2 rounds total at 5 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #17).

Do not stuff the arms. Instead, flatten them (see pic. #18) and then for each arm, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #19). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.

Sew to either side of the body using the whipstitch just under the head (see pic. #20). Similar to what we did for the belt buckle, when you are finished sewing the arms on, weave the remaining tails from both arms through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing (see pic. #21).

Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish. See pic. #22 to see the arms sewn on.

Beard (using white yarn)

R1: ch 26, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sc in each of the next 25 chs (25 sts), ch 1, turn (see pic. #23)

R2-5: sc in all 25 sts (4 rows total at 25 sts each)

Finish off leaving long tail for sewing (see 1^st image in pic. #24). Fold in half lengthwise. Whipstitch the two edges together to create a tube (see pic. #24).

Sewing the Beard to the Head

Now position the beard so that the top edges are positioned at a slight angle over R14 & 15 of the head. We will sew the first short edge of the beard down first using the long tail we left and your tapestry needle. Sew the edge to the head using the whipstitch over R10 & 11 of the head (see pic. #25).

When the short edge is sewn on, weave the tail through the head to under the long edge of the beard and bring your needle and tail up through both head and beard (see 1^st image in pic. #26). Step one: Go over one stitch on the beard and pull your needle through the beard and one stitch of the head under the beard (see 2^nd and 3^rd images in pic. #26). Step two: Then going under the beard, skip several stitches and bring your needle back up through the beard (see last image in pic. #26).

Repeat steps one and two until the middle of the beard is sewn down and you reach the other short end. You will have only made 3-4 stitches when you reach the other end of the beard. We are just sewing it down enough so that it doesn’t flop around too much. Feel free to make more stitches spaced closer together if you like, though. Once at the other end, sew the second short edge to R10 & 11 of the head just like we did for the first edge. Knot the sewing tail and the starting tail of the beard together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish (see pic. #27).

Mustache (using white yarn)

ch 7, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sl st in the next ch, in the next ch [make 1 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc all in the same ch], make 1 sl st in each of the next 2 chs, in the next ch [make 1 sc, 1 hdc, and 1 sc all in the same ch], make 1 sl st in the last ch (10 sts) (see pic. #28)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see last image in pic. #28). Weave the sewing tail to the middle of the mustache. Position the mustache over R12 of the head with the flat edge facing up. Sew the two middle stitches to R12 of the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #29).

When finished, weave the sewing tail and the starting tail (see pic. #30) to the top of the head. Make sure the tails from both ends come through the same stitch of the head as seen in pic. #31. Now knot the two tails together to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the head again to finish.

See pic. #32 to see the mustache sewn on.

Pom pom (using white yarn)

I made my pom pom using a mini 20mm pom pom maker (see pic. #33). There are many different ways to make pom poms, including with cardboard or with a dinner fork. Below are links to video tutorials for each of these methods (see pic. #33).

1. How to make a pom pom using a dinner fork
2. How to make a pom pom using cardboard
3. How to make a pom pom using a pom pom maker

When finished, set the pom pom aside until we have started making the hat (see pic. #34).

Hat (using red yarn)

R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 4 times (8 sts)

R3: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

R4: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)

R5: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R6: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R7: sc in all 16 sts (16 sts)

Adding the Pom Pom to the Hat

Pause here so that we can sew the pom pom to the top of the hat. To do this, I threaded both tails from the pom pom through the top center of the hat with the tails being spaced about one stitch apart from each other (see last image in pic. #35 and 1^st image in pic. #36). Then I knotted the two tails together on the inside of the hat to secure the pom pom (see 2^nd and 3^rd images in pic. #36). The inside of the hat won’t be visible since we’ll be sewing the hat to the head so don’t worry about the knots.

R8: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R9: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)

R10: *sc 4, inc* rep 4 times (24 sts)

R11: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R12: *sc 5, inc* rep 4 times (28 sts)

R13: sc in all 28 sts (28 sts)

R14: *sc 6, inc* rep 4 times (32 sts)

R15: sc in all 32 sts (32 sts)

R16: *sc 7, inc* rep 4 times (36 sts)

R17: sc in all 36 sts (36 sts)

R18: *sc 8, inc* rep 4 times (40 sts)

R19-26: sc in all 40 sts (8 rounds total at 40 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #37).

Sewing the Hat to the Head

Place the hat on the head so that the bottom edge is resting on the top of the beard edges and not over them. Pin the hat in place using straight pins so that it stays in place while you’re sewing it down (see pic. #38).

Thread your tapestry needle with the long tail we left and sew the hat to the head. Step one: Pull your needle up through a stitch on the head and through a stitch on the hat (see 1^st image in pic. #39). Step two: Then, go over one stitch on the hat and pull your needle through that stitch and a stitch from the head (see 2^nd image in pic. #39). Repeat steps one and two until the hat is sewn on.

When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head (see pic. #40).

Hat band (using white yarn)

The hat band is worked in rows instead of rounds so we will ch 1, and turn at the end of each row. The hat band is also worked entirely in the BLO (back loops only) using sc sts.

R1: ch 4, starting in 2^nd ch from hook sc 3 (3 sts), ch 1, turn (see pic. #41)

R2-48: in BLO (back loops only) sc 3, ch 1, turn (47 rows total at 3 sts each)

Before finishing off, wrap the band around the hat to make sure it is the correct length for your hat. You may need to make it shorter or longer than mine. Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #42).

Join the two short ends of the band together and sew them together using the whipstitch (see pic. #43). You now have a circular band.

Sewing the Hat Band to the Hat

Slip it over the top of the hat so that it fits snugly around the bottom edge. Pin it into place using straight pins so that it stays in place while we sew it on.

Weave the sewing tail up to the middle of the hat band (see pic. #44).

We will sew the middle section of the hat band to the bottom round of the hat. Step one: Go over one row on the hat band and pull your needle through that row and a stitch from the bottom round of the hat (see 1^st 2 images in pic. #45). Step two: Pull your needle up through another stitch from the bottom round of the hat and through a row of the hat band (see last image in pic. #45). Repeat steps one and two until the hat band is sewn on.

When finished, weave the starting tail from the other end of the hat band (see pic. #46) down to where the sewing tail is (see pic. #47). Knot the two tails together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish (see pic. #48).

Finishing Touches for Mini Santa Claus Amigurumi

Now, fold the hat down so that the pom pom is hanging over the hat band (see pic. #49). Pin the fold in place with straight pins.

Take a length of red yarn and knot one end (see pic. #50). Using your tapestry needle, pull the yarn under the hat and bring it up through the side of the hat just above the top of the hat band (see pic. #51).

Grab a stitch from the top of the hat and a stitch from the bottom edge of the hat above the hat band (see pics. #52 & #53). Repeat this until you feel like the fold in the hat is secure and won’t come undone.

To finish, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head (see pic. #54 to see it completed).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free mini Santa Claus amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this mini Santa Claus amigurumi pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free mini Santa Claus amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!