Spring is coming, which also means Easter is just around the corner. What better way to get in the festive spirit than by crocheting a sweet baby bunny? Christopher the Baby Bunny reminds me of darling old illustrations and heirloom Easter decor. He’d make such a sweet handmade surprise in an Easter basket this year. I hope you enjoy this free baby bunny amigurumi pattern!
Meet Christopher the Bunny! Christopher is the sweetest baby bunny around and he loves to cuddle more than anything. Since he’s just a baby, he needs lots of naps making him the perfect companion for your little one!
In my shop, you can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this baby bunny PDF amigurumi pattern. Supporting my website in this way ensures that I can release many more free patterns in the future!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free baby bunny amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any color. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) You will need approx. 74 grams of yarn to make this baby bunny amigurumi pattern. For the gray bunny in the step-by-step photos, I used Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Fisherman”. You’ll also need a small amount of pink yarn for the nose and white yarn for the tail.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
- 25 mm pom pom maker
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 7.25 in. (18 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Baby Bunny Amigurumi Pattern
Bunny Head
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 6 sc sts (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. If you do use the magic ring, make a magic ring and make 6 sc sts in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method” that I use here.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)
R5: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R6: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R7: sc in all 30 sts (30 sts)
R8: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R9: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R10: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)
R11: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R12-20: sc in all 48 sts (9 rounds total—48 sts)
R21: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R22: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R23: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Adding the Eyes and Nose
Stop now to work on the face. We will insert his right eye between R7 & 8 and his left eye between R8 & 9, 10 sts apart from each other. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 10 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.)
Take some pink yarn and thread your tapestry needle with it. Embroider a nose over the first and second rounds of the head using straight stitches. Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you go on.
R24: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R25: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R26: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R27: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off. Sew up the hole neatly as it will remain visible. Watch this video to learn how to sew up a hole neatly. Weave in all ends.
Ears (make 2)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 4 sc sts (4 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total—8 sts)
R5: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R6: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)
R7: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)
R8-11: sc in all 16 sts (4 rounds total—16 sts)
R12: *sc 2, dec* rep 4 times (12 sts)
R13: *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. If you want your ears to be bendable, take a chenille stem (a.k.a. pipe cleaner) and bend it in half so that it’s the approximate shape of the ear. Then, using wire cutters, trim it to the correct length. Push it up through the ear’s opening until it is completely inserted. Trim any excess if needed. Watch this video to learn how to add chenille stems to your bunny’s ears.
Sew the open ends of the ears closed to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends to create a flat edge for sewing.
Now, pinch the bottom edges of the ear together and sew them tightly together – about three stitches up. Weave the tail back down to the ear’s bottom edge to sew the ears to the head. Watch this video to learn how to sew the corners of the ears together.
Position the ears to R20 of the head, spaced 4-5 inches apart. Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch.
Body
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 6 sc sts (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-10: sc in all 30 sts (5 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R11: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R12-16: sc in all 24 sts (5 rounds total at 24 sts each)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly.
Position the body so that the front of the body is 5 sts away from the first round of the head and centered between the eyes and nose. The front edge of the body should be right on round 6 of the head. Pin it into place using straight pins to make sure that it stays in place while you sew it on.
Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. Stop and check frequently as you sew that the body is still centered between the eyes and nose. Make adjustments as you go as needed.
Arms (make 2)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 6 sc sts (6 sts)
R2-7: sc in all 6 sts (6 rounds total at 6 sts)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.
Pin the arms to either side of the body so that the outer edge of the arm is up against the bottom of the head and not pressed against the neck. Pin the arms into place using straight pins.
Sew the arms under the head using the whipstitch.
If you want the arms to stay pressed against the body instead of sticking out, take your yarn tail, weave it down through the body to underneath the arm, and sew one or two stitches to secure it to the side.
Legs (make 2)
R1: ch 2, starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, make 6 sc sts (6 sts)
R2-5: sc in all 6 sts (4 rounds total at 6 sts)
R6: *inc* rep 3 times, sc 3 (9 sts)
R7: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times, sc 3 (12 sts)
R8-11: sc in all 12 sts (4 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R12: *sc 2, dec* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R13: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge for sewing.
Flatten the thighs and pin them to the sides of the body with about 3 sts between the front tips of the legs.
Sew the back end of the legs over R7-9 of the body or however far up or low down you need to sew them on so that your bunny is able to sit on his own. To ensure this, pin the legs in place with straight pins and then place your bunny on a flat surface to make he can sit on his own. Adjust accordingly. The tail we make after this step will also help him sit on his own.
Sew the back flat edge of the leg to the body using the whipstitch. When you are done sewing the back edge to the body, weave your yarn tail to the front of the leg. Grab a stitch from the side of the leg that is pressed against the body and sew it to the body. Do this with as many stitches from the front of the leg as you need to to secure the leg to the side of the body.
Tail (using cream or white yarn)
To make the tail, I made a pom pom using a 25mm pom pom maker from Clover Amour.
Watch this video to see how to make a pom pom using a pom pom maker.
Sew the tail to the body so that it assists him in sitting up on his own. Weave in all ends. Watch this video to see how to sew the pom pom to the body.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free baby bunny amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free baby bunny amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
More Free Amigurumi Patterns
Sandy the Sea Turtle Free Amigurumi Pattern
Leave a Reply