Free Dragonfly Amigurumi Pattern – Easy Crochet Tutorial

It’s time for another free mini bug pattern! This time, I’m excited to share my pattern for Dash the Baby Dragonfly. I designed this pattern a couple of years ago, and he goes perfectly with my free Baby Bee amigurumi pattern. I hope you enjoy the free dragonfly amigurumi pattern and love him as much as I do!

Meet Dash the Dragonfly! Dash prides himself in being the fastest dragonfly around. He practices flying fast and doing spins and tricks in the air so that he’ll be ready for the annual “Fastest Insect” award ceremony each Spring.

Disclaimer: Some links in this free dragonfly amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

You can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this dragonfly amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Supporting my website in this way ensures I can release many more free patterns in the future!

MATERIALS YOU NEED

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any color and white. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply. NOTE: for the smaller dragonflies you see in the above photos, I used DK-weight yarn and a 2.75 mm hook.) For the dragonfly in the step-by-step photos, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Lemon”. For the small dragonflies, I used Paintbox Yarns Simply DK.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook (or a C (2.75 mm) hook if you are making a dragonfly using DK yarn)
• 9 mm black safety eyes (or 6 mm eyes if you are making a dragonfly using DK yarn)
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins
• Embroidery thread in a contrasting color from the main yarn color for the tail and a small amount of black for the mouth.

ABBREVIATION KEY

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 3.75 in. (8.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFO

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. If you would like to learn how to do the “ch 2 method,” then see this video HERE.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. If you’d like to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches, see this video HERE.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. If you want more info on this, check out this short video HERE.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: If you need help stuffing your pieces properly, check out this short video HERE.

Free Dragonfly Amigurumi Pattern

Head (using any color of  yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. If you want to know how to start using the “ch 2 method” that I use, watch this video here HERE)

R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-11:  sc all 30 sts (6 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R12: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Insert eyes between R10 & 11, 7 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 7 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye.) Now we will embroider the eye details around the safety eyes. Take some white yarn (or any contrasting color of yarn) and embroider a straight stitch just under each eye. You’ll want it to be about 3 sts wide and about one stitch less than halfway around the eye. There should be slightly more of the white stitch toward the outside of the eye than the inside.

Embroider a small smile right between the eyes using black embroidery floss. Learn how to embroider a simple smile by watching this video HERE.

R13: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R14: dec 3, sc 1, dec 3, sc 1, dec 2 (10 sts)

Finish off and then stuff the head firmly. Do not sew the opening closed. Set the head aside until we have made the body.

Antennae (using the same color of yarn as the head)

(See the photo below for placement.) Join the yarn to the side of the head on R5, then ch 4  to create the first antenna. Finish off. Repeat on the other side of the head for 2nd antenna. With the tail left from finishing off, tie a knot right up against the finishing chain. This will make it extra secure and keep it from unraveling. Cut the excess yarn off.

Weave both starting tails into the head and bring the tails out through the back of the head through the same stitch. Knot the two ends together to secure and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish. 

Body (using same color yarn as head)

R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (5 sts)

R2-6: sc in all 5 sts (5 rounds total at 5 sts each)

R7: *inc* rep 5 times (10 sts)

R8: *sc 1, inc* rep 5 times (15 sts)

R9-10: sc in all 15 sts (2 rounds total at 15 sts each)

R11: *sc 1, dec* rep 5 times (10 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not sew to the head until we have made the arms.

Arms (make 2 using the same color yarn as the body)

For video instructions on how to attach the arms, watch this video HERE.

We will crochet the arms directly onto the body so we don’t have to sew them on. This is similar to how we made the antennae on the head. Insert your hook into the 2^nd st from where we finished off on the body (see photo below. The black arrow is where the 1^st arm should be, the white arrow is where the 2^nd arm should be.) and make 4 ch sts. Starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sl st in each of the 3 ch sts. Finish off and weave the two ends into the inside of the body. Knot the ends together to secure them.

For the 2^nd arm, count 5 sts on the body from where you made the first arm and insert your hook into the 5^th st. Just like we did for the first arm, ch 4, then starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sl st in each of the 3 ch sts. Finish off and weave the two ends into the inside of the body. Knot the ends together to secure them.

Starting between R6 and 7 of the body, take some contrasting embroidery floss and embroider stripes in between each round all the way to the tip of the tail. Weave in all ends. For video instructions on how to embroider the tail details, watch this video HERE.   

Sewing the Body to the Head

Stuff the top of the body firmly (there’s no need to stuff the tail). Since both the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 10 stitches, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Pin the body into place using straight pins before sewing it on so that you can make sure the arms are lined up evenly. Using the whipstitch, sew the body and head together. Stop and check periodically that the arms are lined up evenly as you are sewing.

When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head to the remaining body tail to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.

Top wings (make 2 using white yarn)

R1: ch 11, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st 3, sc 2, hdc 3, dc 1, in last ch make 2 dc, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, make 3 dc, dc 1, hdc 3, sc 2, sl st 3 (27 sts)

(See photos below) this is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front or bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. The first round is complete once you’re at the end of the row! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round.

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Set aside until the bottom wings are completed.

Bottom wings (make 2 using white yarn)

R1: ch 9, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sl st 3, sc 2, hdc 1, dc 1, in last ch make 2 dc, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, make 3 dc, dc 1, hdc 1, sc 2, sl st 3 (21 sts)

(See photos below) this is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round.

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Tack the longer top wings to the top back of the body using straight pins so that the edges of the wings are touching each other. Make sure to leave enough room on the back of the body for the bottom wings to go under them. Sew in place making sure that the body color doesn’t peek through the middle of the wings.

Now place the two shorter bottom wings just under the two top wings. Sew in place just like we did for the top wings, making sure that the body doesn’t peek through the middle of the wings.

Weave all the loose ends into the dragonfly’s body to hide them. To learn how to weave the ends in neatly, watch this video HERE.

Optional Details

You can now add a bit of blush to your dragonfly’s cheeks to make him look extra cute! For my dragonfly, I actually used real blush! You could also use a Waldorf rouge crayon especially designed for doll cheeks or a red or pink Sharpie. You could also embroider a small pink stitch below each eye, like I did in my free bee amigurumi pattern.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free dragonfly amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

If you make this free dragonfly amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Feel free to leave a comment below letting me know what you thought of this pattern!

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!