This week, I’m thrilled to share the pattern for Luca the Llama! This little llama is Ecuadorian, and since my mom grew up in Ecuador, this cutie has a special place in my heart. I think Luca would look good in any number of color combos, so have fun experimenting! Without further ado, please enjoy this free llama amigurumi pattern!
Meet Luca the Llama! Luca is from the Andes mountains in Ecuador. He loves his home and his family and there’s no place he’d rather be than hiking along the mountain ranges and gazing at the breathtaking scenery.
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this llama amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free llama amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need to Make This Free Llama Amigurumi Pattern
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any two colors. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my llama, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Orchid” and Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige”. You’ll also need a small amount of black yarn for the nose.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- bs – berry stitch
- BLO – back loops only
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 9 in. (23 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info for This Free Llama Amigurumi Pattern
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Llama Amigurumi Pattern
Throughout the pattern I will be referring to the two yarn colors as “color A” and “color B”. In this example, my color A is beige and my color B is purple.
Head (starting in color A)
R1: ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first front loop, sc 6 (12 sts)
This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front or bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into both sides of a foundation chain.
R2: inc 2, sc 3, inc 3, sc 3, inc 1 (18 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R4: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times, sc 6, *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times, sc 7, inc (30 sts)
R5: *inc, sc 4* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R6: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times, sc 9, *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times, sc 11, inc (42 sts)
R7: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
Switch to color B
Making the Berry Stitch
Now we are going to be making the curly fur. To make the fur curly, we will be using the berry stitch (bs). To make the berry stitch, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through. Now, working with only the front loop on the hook, ch 4. Now yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. Your berry stitch is completed. Watch this video to learn how to crochet the berry stitch.
Basically, from here on out, every other stitch will be a bs. I’ve written out the pattern here exactly how I did it. If you miss a bs here and there, don’t worry, it’s a very forgiving stitch. Just make sure you have the correct stitch count at the end of each round.
Continuing on
R8: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 4 times, *sc 1, make 1 bs and 1 sc in the next st, bs 1, make 1 sc and 1 bs in the next st* rep 4 times, *sc 1, bs 1* rep 12 times (56 sts)
R9: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 28 times (56 sts)
R10: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 28 times (56 sts)
R11-18: Rep R9-10 (you’ll be repeating those rounds 4 times for a total of 8 more rounds)
Adding the Eyes
Stop and insert the 15mm safety eyes between R5 & 6. See the photo below for the exact placement. Where the arrows point is where you should insert the eyes.
Now we will start decreasing. We will be continuing just as we were with every other st being a bs. To make a berry stitch decrease, start making a regular decrease by inserting your hook into the first st, yarn over, pull through, then insert hook into the next st, yarn over pull through. You now have 3 loops on your hook. Using the loop closest to the tip of the hook, ch 4, now yarn over and draw your hook through all loops. Your bs dec is complete. (Above video also demonstrates how to make the berry stitch decrease.) We abbreviate the berry stitch decrease as “bs dec”.
R19: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 5 times, *bs 1, dec 1* rep 8 times, *bs 1, sc 1* rep 11 times (48 sts)
R20: *sc, bs, sc, bs, sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R21: *Sc, bs, sc, bs, sc, bs dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R22: *Bs, sc, bs, sc, bs dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Stop and start to stuff the head firmly, continuing to stuff as you work.
R23: *bs, sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R24: *sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R25: *sc, bs dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R26: *1 sc dec, 1 bs dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)
Finish off. Finish stuffing head firmly and use tail to sew up hole neatly (this part will be visible) then weave the remaining tail into the head.
Muzzle (using color A)
R1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 3 times (15 sts)
R5: *sc 4, inc* rep 3 times (18 sts)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.
Take a long piece of black yarn and, using your tapestry needle, embroider the llama’s nose. Watch this video to learn how to embroider the llama’s nose.
Stuff the muzzle lightly and pin it to the front of the llama’s head, centered between his eyes. Pining it in place using straight pins will help it stay in place while you’re sewing it on. Sew the muzzle to the head using the whipstitch.
Ears (make 2 using color A)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)
R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5-8: sc in all 12 sts (4 rounds total at 12 sts each)
R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the piece, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.
Then pinch the two bottom edges together and sew them together with a couple of stitches to create some shaping.
Position and pin the ears to R15 of the head spaced about 10 sts apart from each other. Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch. Once you have finished sewing the ears on, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head.
Body (using color B)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc in next st, bs in same st as last sc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, make 1 bs & 1 sc in next st, bs 1, make 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 1, bs 1, 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 1, bs 1, sc 1, 1 bs & 1 sc in next st, 1 bs, 1 sc , 1 bs, 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (30 sts)
R6: *bs, sc, bs, sc, 1 bs and 1 sc in next st* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R8: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R9: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R10: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R11: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 18 times (36 sts)
R12: *sc, bs, sc, bs, dec, bs, sc, bs, sc, bs dec* rep 3 times (30 sts)
R13: *bs, sc, bs, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R14: *sc, bs* rep 12 times (24 sts)
R15: *bs, sc, bs dec, sc, bs, dec* rep 3 times (18 sts) Mark this round as we will sew the arms to this round later.
R16: *sc, bs* rep 9 times (18 sts)
R17: *bs, sc* rep 9 times (18 sts)
R18: *sc, bs* rep 9 times (18 sts)
R19: *bs, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R20: *sc, bs* rep 3 times
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing.
Sewing the Body to the Head
Stuff the body firmly, making sure to add enough stuffing to the neck area so that he has plenty of support to hold the head up. Sew to the bottom of the head over R11-15 of the head.
Arms (make 2 starting in color A)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R3: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)
Switch to color B. We’ll be alternating with the berry stitch again for the rest of the arms.
R4: *sc, bs* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R5: *bs, sc* rep 4 times (8 sts)
R6-9: repeat R4-5 (you’ll be repeating those rounds 2 times for a total of 4 more rounds)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There is no need to stuff the arms.
Flatten the tops of the arms and sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge for sewing like we did for the ears. Sew to either side of the body over R15 of the body.
Legs (make 2 starting in color A)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (9 sts)
R3: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)
Switch to color B. We’ll be alternating with the berry stitch again for the rest of the legs.
R4: *sc, bs, 1 sc and 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (12 sts)
R5: *sc, bs* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R6: *bs, sc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R7: *sc, bs* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R8-15: repeat R6-7 (you’ll be repeating those rounds 4 times for a total of 8 more rounds)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top of each leg, and then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (like we did for the ears).
Sewing the Legs to the Body
Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your llama is able to sit up on his own when you set him on a flat surface. I sewed the back flat edge of the legs to R5-9 of my llama’s body, but yours might be different, so make sure to set your llama on a flat surface to ensure he can sit on his own.
The tips of the legs should be spaced 3-4 sts from each other.
When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you are sewing them on.
Starting where your finishing tail is on the top of the leg, sew the flat back edge of the leg to the body. Then, sew down three to four stitches from the top of the thigh to the body. When you have done that, weave the sewing tail down to the bottom of the leg and sew down three to four stitches of the bottom edge to secure. Repeat for the second leg.
When you are finished sewing the legs on, weave the remaining tails from both legs through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Blanket (starting in dark green yarn)
Blanket is worked entirely in rows, not rounds.
R1: ch 32, starting in 3rd ch from hook, hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R2: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 2, turn
R3: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R4: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R5: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R6: hdc 30, switch to light brown yarn, ch 2, turn
R7: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R8: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R9: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 2, turn
R10: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R11: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R12: hdc 30, switch to gray yarn, ch 1, turn
R13: sc 1, now insert your hook in between the 2 sc sts below the row we’re currently on and make a sc, we will alternate between doing 1 sc and 1 sc over the bottom st for this entire row ending on a sc st. Be careful to count your sts as you go to be sure you end up with 30 sts at the end of the row. It’s easy to lose a st during this row. Ch 2, turn
You can watch this video to learn how to make this special stitch.
Continuing on
R14: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R15: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R16: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 1, turn
R17: Repeat R13, ch 2, turn
R18: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R19: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R20: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R21: hdc 30, switch to light brown yarn, ch 2, turn
R22: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R23: hdc 30, switch to beige yarn, ch 2, turn
R24: hdc 30, switch to cream yarn, ch 2, turn
R25: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R26: hdc 30, ch 2, turn
R27: hdc 30, switch to dark green yarn, ch 2, turn
R28-29: hdc 30, ch 2, turn (rep 2 times – 2 rows total)
Finish off. Weave in all ends so they don’t unravel.
Adding the Fringe
Take some dark green yarn and add fringe all along the two short ends of the blanket. One fringe on each st, so you’ll need 60 pieces of green yarn. Trim to your liking. Watch this video to see how to add the fringe to the blanket.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free llama amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free llama amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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