Free Cuddle-Sized Santa Claus Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Well, it’s officially Christmas in July! We are less than halfway to Christmas, which means it’s the perfect time to start working on holiday crochet projects. This Cuddle-Sized Santa Claus is one of my most popular Christmas patterns to date. He was one of my earlier Christmas designs from 2018 and remains a favorite today. I hope you love this FREE Santa Claus amigurumi pattern as much as I do!

Last year, for Christmas in July, I shared the free pattern for the mini version of this Santa Claus design. I also shared the pattern for Joy the Mini Christmas Tree. Both patterns are also FREE, so be sure to check them out!

Meet Cuddle-Sized Santa Claus! He is cute and cuddly, and of course, he loves Christmas! He also has a weakness for all kinds of toys and for Mrs. Claus. Oh, and he’s also quite fond of milk and cookies! 

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this Santa Claus crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free Santa Claus amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in beige, red, white, black, and a small amount of yellow. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the beige skin, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Beige“. For everything else, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the following colors: “Red”, “White”, “Black”, and “Yellow”.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
• 15 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 8.5 in. (21.5 cm.) tall with the hat on. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or in part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Santa Claus Amigurumi Pattern

Head (Using Beige Yarn & F Hook)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)

R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R9: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R10: *sc 8, inc 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R11: *sc 9, inc 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R12: *sc 10, inc 1* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R13-25: sc in all 72 sts (13 rounds total at 72 sts each)

R26: *sc 10, dec 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R27: *sc 9, dec 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R28: *sc 8, dec 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R29: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R30: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)

Adding the Face

Insert the 15mm eyes between R24 and R25, spaced 14 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 14 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There will be 10 whole visible stitches between the eyes. See pic. #1.)

R31: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R32: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)

Stop and start to stuff the head firmly, continuing as you work.

R33: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R34: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R35: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R36: *dec 1* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing the head firmly, and use the tail to sew up the hole, then weave in your end.

Mustache (Make 2 Using White Yarn & F Hook)

The mustache is worked in rows, not rounds, so you will ch 1 and turn at the end of R1.

Start with a long starting tail.

R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (4 sts), ch 1, turn

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Position the two pieces over R25 of the head, centered between the eyes. Pin them into place using straight pins. Using your tapestry needle and the finishing tail we left, sew the corner stitches of each piece down to the head. When you are finished, knot the two sewing tails together to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to hide them. Weave the two starting tails that are left up the sides of the mustache pieces until they are at the center of the mustache. Then knot the two tails together to keep them from unraveling and weave the remaining tails into the head to hide them (see pic. #2).

Beard (Using White Yarn & F Hook)

The beard is worked in rows instead of rounds, so you will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 43, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 42, ch 1, turn

R2: sc in all 42 sts, ch 1, turn (42 sts)

R3: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times, ch 1, turn (36 sts)

R4: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times, ch 1, turn (30 sts)

R5-6: sc in all 30 sts (2 rows total at 30 sts each)

R7: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R8: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R9: sc in all 42 sts (42 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Fold the rectangle in half so that the two longest ends meet, then, using your tapestry needle and the long tail we left, sew the edges together with the whipstitch (see pic. #3). There’s no need to stuff the beard.

Position the beard under the eyes and mustache, and pin it into place with straight pins (see pic. #4). I sewed both short sides of the beard and the top of the beard to the head, but left the bottom of the beard unsewn (see pic. #5).

Legs (Make 2 Starting in Black Yarn & Using F Hook)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)

R5: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R6-7: sc in all 24 sts (2 rounds total at 24 sts each)

Switch to red yarn

Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R8a and R8 (see pic. #6).

R8a: in the BLO, very loosely sl st in all 24 sts (24 sts)

R8: in the BLO of the sl sts, sc 24 (24 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO on the legs)

Finish off on the 1^st leg. Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2^nd leg.

We will now join the feet together and start making the body. The left foot is the one we finished off on, the right foot is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off (from Santa’s perspective).

Joining the Legs and Making the Body (Continuing in Red Yarn)

R9: join the right foot to left foot with a sc in the 1^st st of the left foot, sc 23 on the left foot, now finish joining the feet together by making a sc in the next st on the right foot, then sc 23 (48 sts) see pic. #7

R10: sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)

Switch to white yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R11a through R15.

R11a: in BLO very loosely sl st in all 48 sts (48 sts)

R11: in BLO sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R12a: in BLO very loosely sl st in all 48 sts (48 sts)

R12: in BLO sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)

Switch to black yarn

R13a: in BLO very loosely sl st in all 48 sts (48 sts)

R13: in BLO sc in all 48 sts (48 sts) (this is the last round we’ll crochet in the BLO until R15a)

R14: sc in all 48 sts (48 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R15a: in BLO very loosely sl st in all 48 sts (48 sts)

R15: in BLO *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts). This is the last round we will crochet in the back loops on the body. We will not be able to do an invisible decrease on this round because we can’t use the front loops, so just do a traditional one.

R16-18: sc in all 42 sts (3 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R19: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Embroidering the Belt Buckle

Now, take a length of gold or yellow yarn and embroider the belt buckle over his black belt. Mine was about 4.5 crochet sts wide and 3 sts high over the belly (see pic. #8).

Sewing the Body to the Head

Stuff the body firmly and position it under the head. Pin it into place using straight pins to keep it in place while sewing it on. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. You might want to add a little more stuffing to his neck just before you finish sewing it closed (see pic. #9). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.

Arms (Starting in Tan Yarn & Using F Hook)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

Switch to white yarn. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R4a through R5.

R4a: in BLO very loosely sl st in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R4: in BLO sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

Switch to red yarn

R5a: in BLO very loosely sl st in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R5: in BLO sc in all 12 sts (12 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO on the arms)

R6-9: in the BLO Sc in all 12 sts (4 rounds total at 12 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the arms. Flatten the top of each arm, and sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #10). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge.

Position the arms to either side of the body and sew them to the last round of the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #11). Once you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

**NOTE: When I finished sewing my arms on, I didn’t like how the arms were sticking straight out at the sides, so I wove my yarn tail down to the middle underside of each arm and sewed a few stitches of the arm to the side of the body (see pic. #12).

 Hat (Using Red Yarn & G Hook)

**NOTE: Hats can be tricky things. My doll hats tend to be tight, so I use a larger crochet hook to compensate so that the hats fit better. Make sure that you periodically try the hat on your Santa as you go to make sure it will fit well. If your ami hats tend to be too loose, you may want to use an F hook instead of a G, or you may want to skip R17 (hence you would have 6 less stitches).

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3-4: sc in all 12 sts (2 rounds total at 12 sts each)

R5: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R6-7: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)

R8: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R9-10: sc in all 24 sts (2 rounds total at 24 sts each)

R11: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R12-13: sc in all 30 sts (2 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R14: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R15-16: sc in all 36 sts (2 rounds total at 36 sts each)

R17: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R18-19: sc in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R20: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R21-22: sc in all 48 sts (2 rounds total at 48 sts each)

R23: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R24-25: sc in all 54 sts (2 rounds total at 54 sts each)

R26: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)

R27-28: sc in all 60 sts (2 rounds total at 60 sts each)

R29: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)

R30-31: sc in all 66 sts (2 rounds total at 66 sts each)

R32: *sc 10, inc* rep 6 times (72 sts)

R33-40: sc in all 72 sts (8 rounds total at 72 sts each)

Before you finish off, make sure the hat is the right length by trying it on your Santa. Depending on your gauge, you may want to make it shorter or longer.

Hat Band (Using White Yarn & G Hook)

The hat band is worked in rows instead of rounds, so you will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 4, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, hdc 3, ch 1 & turn

R2-69: hdc in all 3 sts, ch 1 & turn (68 rows total at 3 sts each)

NOTE: Make sure that the hat band is long enough to fit around the hat before finishing off. You may need to make yours slightly shorter or longer than mine.

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. You will now sew the two short ends together, then place the band around the bottom of the hat and sew the middle of the band down to the last round of the hat, all the way around (see pic. #13). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the backside of the white band to hide them.

Pom Pom (Using White Yarn)

I made my pom pom using a pom pom maker. Of the ones in this listing, I used the medium-sized yellow one. There are many different ways to make pom poms, including with cardboard or with a dinner fork. Below are links to video tutorials for each of these methods.

1. How to make a pom pom using cardboard
2. How to make a pom pom using a pom pom maker
3. How to make a pom pom using a dinner fork

Sewing the Pom Pom to the Hat

When complete, sew the pom pom to the tip of the hat. To do this, I threaded both tails from the pom pom through the top center of the hat, with the tails being spaced about one stitch apart from each other. Then I knotted the two tails together on the inside of the hat to secure the pom pom. The inside of the hat won’t be visible since we’ll be sewing the hat to the head, so don’t worry about the knots (see pic. #14).

Finishing the Hat

Once you have the pom pom sewn on, place the hat on your Santa and fold the top of the hat down so that the very tip of the hat is touching R34 of the hat and sew a few stitches from the bottom of the fold to the hat to secure it (see pic. #15).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free Santa Claus amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

If you enjoyed this free Santa Claus Amigurumi pattern, I hope you’ll check out my other Christmas patterns! I LOVE designing Christmas patterns, and you can find a number of them FREE here on the blog or even more in my premium pattern shop!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free Cuddle-Sized Santa Claus amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!