Happy Summer, friends! It’s been a hot minute (no pun intended) since I posted a new pattern. I’ve been going through the archives, and I’m excited to share some of my older, original designs from back when I first started selling patterns. This sloth pattern is one of my first cuddle-sized designs and is nearly nine years old! It’s still one of my favorite designs, and I’m so happy to finally be sharing this FREE sloth amigurumi pattern here on the blog!
Meet Zippy the Sloth! This sloth is just the right size for cuddles! He’s a little bit shy, but I know he’d love to be your friend just the same!
I also designed a mini version of Zippy the Sloth, so be sure to check out the FREE pattern for Zippy the Baby Sloth!
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this sloth crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free sloth amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in light brown, cream, dark brown, and a small amount of black. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the light brown yarn, I used Red Heart Super Saver in the color “Warm Brown”. This color has unfortunately been discontinued. For the cream, I used Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in the color “Fisherman” and for the dark brown, I used Red Heart Soft in the color “Chocolate”.
- F (3.75 mm) crochet hook
- 15 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
- Dark brown felt
- Dark brown sewing thread
- Sewing needle
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 8 in. (20.5 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Sloth Amigurumi Pattern
NOTE: Zippy can be made with crocheted eye patches or felt eye patches. You can see the difference between the two in the images below. If you’d like to crochet them, then follow the pattern below. If you’d like to make felt ones, then use this felt eye patch PDF HERE. Print the page on a regular 8.5 x 11 piece of paper and use the paper pattern to cut the correct size eye patches out of your felt.
Crocheted Eye Patches (Make 2 Using Dark Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 10, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 9, turn and sc 9 in the front loops of the chain (18 sts)
(See pic. #1). This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 2, sc 6, inc 2, sc 6, inc 2 (24 sts)
R3: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Set aside until we’re ready to insert the eyes and sew the patches down.
Head (Starting in Cream Yarn)
R1: ch 13, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 12, turn and sc 12 in the front loops of the chain (24 sts)
(See pic. #1.) This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 1, sc 10, inc 3, sc 8, inc 2 (30 sts)
R3: sc 1, inc 1, sc 10, *sc 1, inc 1* rep 3 times, sc 8, *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times (36 sts)
R4: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R5: sc 2, inc 1, sc 12, *sc 2, inc 1* rep 3 times, sc 12, *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times (48 sts)
R6: *sc 7, inc 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R7: sc 4, inc 1, sc 12, *sc 4, inc 1* rep 3 times, sc 12, *sc 4, inc 1*rep 2 times (60 sts)
R8: *sc 9, inc 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
Switch to brown yarn
R9: *sc 10, inc 1* (72 sts)
R10: sc 6, *inc 1, sc 2* rep 8 times, sc 42 (80 sts)
R11-24: sc in all 80 sts (14 rounds total at 80 sts each)
Adding the Face
Embroider the nose with black yarn between R1 & 2 of the head, about 4 sts wide.
If using felt eyes, cut out two patches from your felt using the PDF eye patch pattern HERE.
Cut a small slit near the top of both patches (the bigger end should be at the top) and insert the eyes in the slits. Insert eyes between R4 & 5 (see pic. #2 for exact placement. The small blue pins are where you should insert the posts of the eyes). Do not attach the safety eye backings until you sew the felt in place. Neatly sew the patches down with your sewing thread (see pic. #3). Now attach the eye backings.
If Using Crocheted Eyes
If you’re using crocheted eye patches, then attach the safety eyes to the eye patches before sewing the patches to the head. Don’t try to attach the eyes through both thicknesses of the patches and the head. It will be too thick, and the eyes won’t be secure. Once you have the eyes secured to the patches, you can position them over the head and wiggle the back of the safety eye post through the stitches of the head. You can sew the patches to the head now or wait until we finish and stuff the head; that way, they’ll be a nice, firm surface to sew on (see pic. #4).
R25: sc 8, *dec 1, sc 2* rep 8 times, sc 40 (72 sts)
R26: *sc 10, dec 1* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R27: sc in all 66 sts (66 sts)
R28: *sc 9, dec 1* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R29: *sc 8, dec 1* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R30: *sc 7, dec 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R31: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R32: *sc 5, dec 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R33: *sc 4, dec 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R34: *sc 3, dec 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R35: *sc 2, dec 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R36: *sc 1, dec 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R37: *dec 1* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off. Finish stuffing the head firmly and use the tail to sew up the hole neatly. Watch this video to learn how to neatly sew the hole closed. If you crocheted the eye patches, then you can now sew them to the face if you haven’t already.
Body (Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic circle and make 6 sc in the magic circle. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc 1* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc 1* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9-21: sc in all 48 sts (13 rounds total at 48 sts each)
R22: *sc 6, dec 1* rep 6 times (42 sts)
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly. Position the body to R11-25 of the underside of the head. Pin the body into place using straight pins to keep it in place, then sew the body to the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #5). You may want to add a little more stuffing to the neck just before you finish sewing it closed.
Claws (Make 4 Using Cream Yarn)
*Ch 3, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sl st 2* rep 3 times. You should have three claws now. (See pic. #6.)
Finish off and leave a tail for sewing. Set aside until the arms and legs are made.
Arms (Make 2 Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 2 times (10 sts)
R6-8: sc in all 10 sts (3 rounds total at 10 sts each)
R9: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 2 times (12 sts)
R10-14: sc in all 12 sts (5 rounds total at 12 sts each)
Note: If you like a longer armed sloth, just add a few more rounds to his arms.
Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly. On each arm, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #7). Set aside until the legs are made.
Legs (Make 2 Using Brown Yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *sc 2, inc 1* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 8 sts (2 rounds total at 8 sts each)
R5: *sc 3, inc 1* rep 2 times (10 sts)
R6-8: sc in all 10 sts (3 rounds total at 10 sts each)
R9: *sc 4, inc 1* rep 2 times (12 sts)
R10-12: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly and sew open ends together. On each leg, sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing.
Sewing the Claws on
Position the claws to R2 of each arm and leg. Sew the top flat edge of the claws to the limbs. The claws should be parallel to the top flat edge of each arm and leg. Once you have them sewn on, knot the claw’s starting tail to the sewing tail to secure the sewing. Then weave the remaining tails into the arms and legs to hide them (see pics. #8 and #9).
Sewing the Arms to the Body
Position the arms over R18-22 of the body at an angle (see pic. #10) and pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the top flat edge of each arm to the body using the whipstitch. To ensure that the arms hug the body and don’t stick out, sew a portion of the bottom of the arm’s side down as shown in pic. #11. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.
Sewing the Legs to the Body
Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your sloth can sit up on his own when you set him on a flat surface. I sewed the back flat edge of the legs to R8-13 of my sloth’s body, directly below the arms. You might need to position your legs differently from mine to ensure your sloth can sit on his own, so be sure to experiment.
When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you are sewing them on.
Sew the back flat edge of the legs to the body, then sew down a portion of the top of the leg so that the legs hug the body and don’t stick out (see pic. #12).
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free sloth amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
Want more FREE cuddle-sized patterns? Check out the patterns for Chet the Cuddle-Sized Puppy Dog and Gerald the Cuddle-Sized Giraffe!
Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!
If you make this free sloth amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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