Five years ago, I was commissioned by Bella Coco Crochet to design this darling frog pattern. Before then, I had always struggled to come up with a cute frog design. But being on a deadline with no other choice, I pushed myself to get creative. As a result, Ribbert the Frog was created! I may be biased, but I think Ribbert is one of the cutest amigurumi frogs out there. I hope you agree and enjoy this free frog amigurumi pattern!
Meet Ribbert the Frog! Ribbert is a Cajun frog from the Louisiana Bayou. He loves everything about his home, but especially the delicious food his mama makes! His favorites are gumbo and jambalaya. He loves listening to jazz and enjoys spending time with his friend Richie the Gator.
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this frog amigurumi pattern in my shop. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free frog amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in green and a small amount of black. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my frog, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Keylime”.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 5.5 in. (14 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Head (using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R11: *sc 9, inc* rep 6 times (66 sts)
R12-20: sc in all 66 sts (9 rounds total at 66 sts each)
R21: *sc 9, dec* rep 6 times (60sts)
R22: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R23: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R24: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R25: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R26: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you continue on.
R27: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R28: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R29: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R30: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off and weave in ends. We will embroider the smile after we sew the eyes on.
Eyes (make 2 using green yarn)
R1: ch 7, starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc 6, rotate your work 180 degrees and in the front loops of the ch, sc 6 (12 sts)
(see pic. #1) This is called starting your work with a foundation chain and is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you just continue as you normally would working in the round. Watch this video to learn how to crochet into a foundation chain.
R2: inc 1, sc 3, inc 3, sc 3, inc 2 (18 sts)
R3-4: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)
R5: sc 1, inc 1, sc 3, *sc 1, inc 1* repeat 3 times, sc 3, *sc 1, inc 1* rep 2 times (24 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.
Attaching the Safety Eyes
Insert and secure your 12mm eyes between R4 & 5 of each eye piece (see pics. #2 and #3).
You can stuff the eyes lightly before sewing them to the head. Position the eyes over the middle of the head, with each eye placed over R5-14 of the head, approximately. Pin the eyes into place using straight pins (see pics. #4 & #5).
Take your tapestry needle and sew the eyes to the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #6).
Embroidering the Smile
Now, take some black yarn and embroider a wide smile between R14 & 15 of the head using the back stitch. My smile is about 13 sc sts wide. The last st on either end of the smile should turn up over R15 to create a slight curve (see pic. #7).
Body (using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7-11: sc in all 36 sts (5 rounds total at 36 sts each)
R12: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R13-16: sc in all 30 sts (4 rounds total at 30 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #8). Stuff the body firmly.
Position the body to the bottom center of the head and pin it into place using straight pins. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch (see pics. #9 and #10).
Thighs (make 2 using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4-6: sc in all 18 sts (3 rounds total at 18 sts each)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the piece, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece (see pic. #11).
Flatten the thighs (see pic. #12) and pin them into place using straight pins on either side of the body (see pic. #13).
When the thighs are placed on the body, they will be slightly curved, so you’ll sew the two corners of the thighs to R7 and 8 of the body, the very bottom edge of the thigh to R6, and the top of the thigh to R11 (see pic. #14).
When you finish sewing the corners and bottom of the thigh to the body (see first image in pic. #14), weave your needle to the top of the thigh and sew several stitches to R11 of the body (see last two images in pic. #14). This will firmly secure the thigh to the body without having to sew all the way around it and lose its puffy shape.
Feet (make 2 using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)
We will now make the toes
R3: *sl st, ch 6, sl st in next sc*rep 3 times. We will NOT be working into any of the ch sts we make. All sl sts are worked into the sc sts on R2. The toes will look like little loops when completed (see pic. #15). After the three toes are completed, we will leave the rest of the sts on R3 unworked.
Finish off leaving a tail for sewing.
Pin the feet to the bottom front of the thighs so that the toes peek out (see pic. #16).
Sew the first round of the feet to the bottom of the thighs (see pic. #17). Weave in all ends.
Arms (make 2 using green yarn)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2-7: sc in all 6 sts (6 rounds total at 6 sts each)
We will now make the toes just like we did on the feet.
R8: *sl st, ch 6, sl st in next sc*rep 3 times. We will NOT be working into any of the 6 ch sts we make. All sl sts are worked into the sts on R2. The toes will look like little loops when completed. After the three toes are completed, we will leave the rest of the sts on R8 unworked.
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #18). No need to stuff.
Sewing the Arms to the Body
Weave the long tail we left on the bottom of the arms to the top round of the arms (see pic. #19).
Position the arms to the front of the body over R13-14 of the body. Arms should be about 3 sts apart from each other at the top, and the toes should touch at the bottom (see pic. #20).
Sew the first 2-3 rounds of the arms to the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #21). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave in all the ends.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free frog amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free frog amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Please feel free to leave a comment below, letting me know if you enjoyed this free frog amigurumi pattern or have any questions!
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
More Free Amigurumi Patterns
Did you enjoy this pattern? Check out the FREE pattern for Cooper the Mini Rooster!
Leave a Reply