Free Robot Amigurumi Pattern – Easy Crochet Tutorial

Last Updated on August 25, 2025 by Holly Lanier

When you think about robots, the words soft and cuddly probably don’t come to mind. Well, I’m here to change that with this adorable, soft, and cuddly free robot amigurumi pattern! These sweet crocheted robots are one of my favorite designs, so I’m extra excited to share this pattern with you.

Meet Beep and Boop the Robot Twins! Beep and Boop are inseparable and love to spend time playing together! Like all siblings, sometimes they get into fights, but at the end of the day, they are always there for each other. Beep and Boop love playing video games, building model rockets and jamming to their favorite music!

You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this robot crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!

Want more cuddle-sized patterns like this free robot amigurumi pattern? Check out my free pumpkin amigurumi pattern and my free cuddle-sized ghost pattern!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free robot amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make This Free Robot Amigurumi Pattern

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) gray and light gray. You’ll also need a small amount of red, blue, pink, black, green, and yellow. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the main color, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the color “Grey Beard“. For the other accent colors, I also used I Love This Yarn.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 15 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins
• Black embroidery floss

Abbreviation Key For This Free Robot Amigurumi Pattern

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 9 in. (23 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this post are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Robot Amigurumi Pattern

R2-20: sc in all 28 sts, ch 1, turn (19 rows total at 28 sts each)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. On the front panel, insert your 15mm eyes between the 7^th and 8^th rows, 13 sts apart. Using black yarn, embroider a straight stitch right between his eyes about 3.5 sts long (see pic. #1). If you are making the girl robot, embroider eyelashes at the corners of the eyes (see pic. #2).

Top & bottom panels (Make 2 Using Medium Gray Yarn)

R1: ch 29, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 28, ch 1, turn (the ch 1 is not counted as a st and is not worked into. It is just the turning ch before we start the next row.)

R2-18: sc in all 28 sts, ch 1, turn (17 rows total at 28 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing.

Side panels (Make 2 Using Medium Gray Yarn)

R1: ch 19, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 18, ch 1, turn (the ch 1 is not counted as a st and is not worked into. It is just the turning ch before we start the next row.)

R2-20: sc in all 18 sts, ch 1, turn (19 rows total at 18 sts each)

Finish off and leave a very long tail for sewing.

Sewing the Front, Back, Top, And Bottom Panels Together

Now we will sew all the panels together to create the head using the long tails we left after finishing off on each piece. The stitches from the first and last row of the top and bottom panels should line up exactly with the stitches from the first and last rows on the front and back panels (see pic. #3).

I used the whipstitch to sew my pieces together and went through both loops of a stitch on one panel and only one loop of a stitch on the second panel. This way, there was a little ridge left by the front loops from one of the panels to make the rectangle shape more defined. To ensure sharp edges on all sides, make sure all the whipstitches are on the outside edges (see pics. #4 and #5).

I sewed the front panel (the one with the face) to the top panel first. Then I sewed the back panel to the top panel and then sewed the bottom panel to the back and front panels to create a rectangle (see pic. #6).

Sewing the Side Panels on And Stuffing the Head

I then sewed the small, right-side panel on. The stitches and rows on the side panels should match up exactly with the stitches and rows on the top, bottom, front, and back panels (see pic. #7).

If you run out of yarn tails as I did while sewing everything together, simply cut yourself another length of yarn and start up where you left off. To ensure sharp edges on all sides, make sure all the whipstitches are on the outside edges on all sides.

Now stop and stuff the head, being really careful not to overstuff it. Overstuffing it will cause the head to lose its shape. Take your time to get the shape you want. The process of making and stuffing the head is what takes the longest on this project, but the end result will be worth it! Finally, sew the left-side panel on (see pic. #8). Before sewing it closed completely, finish stuffing. Weave all ends into the head to hide them.

Antenna (Make Two Tor The Girl Starting in Red Yarn, & One For The Boy Starting in Blue Yarn)

Antennas are worked in the round.

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic ring if you prefer, as it won’t make a difference in the end. In that case, you will make a magic ring and make 6 sc in the magic ring. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method” that I use.)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3-5: sc in all 12 sts (3 rounds total at 12 sts each)

R6: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Stuff the top of the antenna firmly. Switch to medium gray yarn for both the boy and the girl. Watch this video here to learn how to make the clean edge color change used on R7a and R7.

R7a: in the BLO (back loops only) very loosely slip stitch in all 6 sts (6 sts)

R7: in the BLO, sc 6 (6 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO)

R8-9: sc in all 6 sts (2 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #9).

Sewing the Antennas on For the Girl Robot

Position the two antennas on either side of the top of the head. Each antenna should be spaced about three rows away from the edge of the head (see pic. #11). Pin the antennas into place using straight pins. Now, using your tapestry needle and the long yarn tail we left, sew each antenna to the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #10). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish (see pic. #11).

Sewing the Antenna on For the Boy Robot

Position the antenna over the center of the top of the head and pin it into place. Sew it to the head using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish.

Ears (Using Medium Gray Yarn)

Ears are worked in the round.

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: in BLO (back loops only) *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts) (this is the only round we will crochet in the BLO on the ears.)

R6-7: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the ears and position them to either side of the head over the center of each side panel. Pin them into place using straight pins (see pic. #12). Using your tapestry needle and the long tail we left, sew the ears to the side of the head using the whipstitch (see pic. #13). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head.

Legs (Make 2 Using Medium Gray Yarn)

Legs are worked in the round.

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: in BLO *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts) (this is the only round you will crochet in the back loops on the legs.)

R6-7 for left foot: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)

Finish off on the 1^st leg.

R6-7 for right foot: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)

Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2^nd leg; instead, ch 2 (see the first image in pic. #14).

We will now join the feet together and start making the body. The left foot is the one we finished off on; the right foot is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off (from the robot’s perspective).

Body (Continuing in Medium Gray Yarn)

R9-20: sc in all 40 sts (12 rounds total at 40 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the legs and body firmly (see pic. #17).

Position the body to the underside of the head carefully so that the eyes and the feet line up evenly. Pin the body and head together using straight pins to make sure they stay positioned correctly while you are sewing them together.

Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together. Keep checking the position of the body as you are sewing to make sure it is still even and not shifting too much. When you are about three-fourths of the way around, you might want to add a little more stuffing to the body to make it sturdier. When finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body (see pic. #18).

Arms (Make 2 Using Medium Gray Yarn)

Arms are worked in the round.

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: in BLO *sc 1, dec* rep 4 times (8 sts)

R4-8: sc in all 8 sts (5 rounds total at 8 sts each)

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #19).

Flatten each arm and then sew the open ends closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (see pic. #20). Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.

Position the arms to either side of the body, parallel to the legs. Sew the flat edge of the arm to the last round of the body using the whipstitch (see pic. #21). When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to hide it.

Control Panel (Using Light Gray Yarn)

Like the head panels, control panel is worked in rows rather than rounds.

R1: ch 14, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, sc 13, ch 1, turn

R2-5: sc in all 13 sts (4 rows total at 13 sts each), ch 1, turn

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing. Embroider 4  X’s on the right of the control panel in the colors of your choice, leaving room on the left side of the panel for the heart to be sewn onto. (Left and right from the perspective of the robot. See pic. #22.) Position the control panel to the front of the body with the top of the panel being one row below the top row of the body (see pic. #23). Sew the panel to the body using the seamless join method. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to hide them.

Heart (Using Pink Yarn)

Heart is worked in the round.

R1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (8 sts)

R2: sl st 2, hdc 1, 2 dc & 1 sl st in the next sc, 1 sl st  & 2 dc in the next sc, hdc 1, sl st 2

Finish off and leave a long tail for sewing (see pic. #24). Sew to the left-hand side of the front of the control panel using the seamless join method (see pic. #25).

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free robot amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

Please feel free to leave a comment down below with any questions or comments you have about this pattern. I always try to respond personally to all comments!

If you make this free robot amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!