Woolly Mammoth and Cave Boy Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Hey friends! This week, I’m sharing my cave boy and woolly mammoth amigurumi pattern with you for FREE. I originally designed this pattern several years ago as my entry in Amigurumi.com’s annual design contest. The theme was prehistoric. It didn’t win any awards, but I’m still so proud of this design, and I hope you enjoy making these two!

Meet Mik the Mammoth and his little friend, Kip! They are the best of friends and never go anywhere without each other. Kip is playful and full of mischief, often getting into trouble. Thankfully, Mik is always quick to rescue Kip from danger and keep him safe.

Disclaimer: Some links in this woolly mammoth amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

MATERIALS YOU NEED TO MAKE THIS Woolly Mammoth and Cave Boy AMIGURUMI PATTERN

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in medium brown and cream. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the medium brown, I used Red Heart Super Saver in “Warm Brown.” Unfortunately, this color has been discontinued. A good substitute would be Red Heart With Love Yarn in “Tan” or Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in “Latte.” For the cream, I used Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in the color “Linen”.
• Sport weight yarn (3 ply) in beige, brown, yellow, & orange (U.K. equivalent is DK & AUS/NZ is 5 ply). I got all my sport weight yarn from Love Crafts HERE. I used the colors “Vanilla Cream”, “Rose Red”, “Blood Orange”, and “Soft Fudge”.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook and C (2.75 mm) crochet hook
• One set of 15 mm black safety eyes and one set of 6 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• A small amount of pink embroidery floss
• Dog slicker brush

ABBREVIATION KEY For Cave Boy and Woolly Mammoth Amigurumi Pattern

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• bs – berry stitch
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished sizes approximately: Woolly Mammoth: 8 in. (20 cm) long & 4.5 in. (10 cm) tall Caveboy: 3 in. (7.5 cm) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

IMPORTANT ADDITIONAL INFO for Cave Boy and Woolly Mammoth Amigurumi Pattern

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. If you would like to learn how to do the “ch 2 method,” then see this video HERE.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. If you’d like to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches, see this video HERE.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. If you want more info on this, check out this short video HERE.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: If you need help stuffing your pieces properly, check out this short video HERE.

Woolly Mammoth Amigurumi Pattern

Woolly mammoth is made using worsted weight/aran weight yarn and a G (4mm) crochet hook

Legs (make 4 using brown yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. If you want to know how to start using the “ch 2 method” that I use, watch this video here HERE)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: in BLO *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R7: sc in all 24 sts (24 sts) (Leave a st marker in the first sc of R7 for the 4^th leg)

Finish off on the first three legs. Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 4^th leg. Instead, ch 10.

Mammoth body (Continuing in brown yarn)

We now have four legs. The fourth leg is still attached to the yarn and has the 10 chs that we just created. From now on, we’ll refer to this fourth leg as the first leg because it’s the one we will start with first. Now, we will join all the legs together.

2^nd Leg

Join the first leg to the second leg with a sc in any st from R7 of the second leg. Sc in the next 15 sts, leaving the last 8 unworked. We will leave those 8 sts unworked for now. Now ch 5 (see pic. #2 & first two pics in pic. #3).

3^rd leg

Join the 2^nd leg to the 3^rd leg with a sc in any st from R7 of the 3^rd leg. Sc in the next 15 sts leaving the last 8 unworked. Ch 10 (See last two pics in pic. #3 & 1^st pic in pic. #4.)

4^th leg

Join the 3^rd leg to the 4^th leg with a sc in any st from R7 of the 4^th leg. Sc in the next 15 sts leaving the last 8 unworked. Ch 5 (See last 3 pics in pic. #4.)

1^st leg

Now we’re back to the 1^st leg. Count 8 sts from where you placed the st marker on the 1^st leg and join the 4^th leg to the 1^st leg with a sc in the 9^th st from the st marker so that you have 8 unworked sts. (See pic. #5.) Now sc in the next 15 sts. You should be back at the first 10 chs now. You have completed R8, our legs are now joined.  

R9: sc in each of the next 10 chs, (see pic. #6.) sc 16, sc in each of the next 5 chs, sc 16, sc in each of the next 10 chs, sc 16, sc in each of the next 5 chs, sc 16 (94 sts) (See pic. #7.)

R10: sc in all 94 sts (94 sts)

For this next part, you can either use a separate skein of yarn of the same color or cut the yarn here and then rejoin it when we’re ready for R11 of the mammoth body.

Bottom of mammoth (using brown yarn)

Now it’s time to crochet the bottom of the mammoth. Holding the legs upside down, join your yarn to one of the legs right next to a ch 5 section where there are 8 unworked sts. (See 1^st two images in pic. #8)

R1: sc 8, sc in each of the next 10 chs, sc 8, sc in each of the next 5 chs, sc 8, sc in each of the next 10 chs, sc 8 sc in each of the next 5 chs (see pic. #9).

R2: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times, dec (55 sts)

R3: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (49 sts)

R4: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (43 sts)

R5: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (37 sts)

R6: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (31 sts)

R7: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (25 sts)

R8: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (19 sts)

R9: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (13 sts)

R10: *dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (7 sts)

Finish off leaving tail for sewing. Sew up the hole neatly since this part will be visible.

Before continuing on, we will take our pet brush and vigorously brush the part of the mammoth we’ve completed so far. Brush until you are satisfied with the fuzziness of his fur. The more you brush, the fuzzier it will be. This will take a while, but it’s so worth it (see pic. #10). Watch this video HERE for a visual demonstration.

Continuing with mammoth body

R11-13: sc 25 then finish off. Skip the next 7 sts and join your yarn to the 8^th st (see pic. #11). Sc in the next 62 sts (3 rounds total—87 worked sts)

IMPORTANT: Mark R13 so you know where to insert your safety eyes later.

R14: sc 25, ch 7, sc in the next 62 sts (87 worked sts) (see pic. #12).

R15: sc 25, sc in each of the next 7 chs, sc 62 (94 sts) (see pic. #13).

R16-21: sc in all 94 sts (6 rounds total at 94 sts each)

We’re going to stop and crochet the trunk now. Once again, you can either use a separate skein of yarn of the same color for the trunk or finish off here and rejoin the yarn once we’re ready for R22 of the mammoth.

Trunk (using brown yarn)

Now, it’s time to crochet the trunk.

R1: Join your yarn to the first st we left unworked on R11 (where we skipped 7) and sc in each of the 7 unworked sts (see pic. #14).

Now turn your mammoth to the side and make 4 scs along this right edge (see pic. #15).

Turning your mammoth upside down, sc in each of the 7 chs from R14 (see pic. #16).

Now turn your mammoth on his side and sc 3 along this left edge (see pic. #17) (21 sts) (see pic. #18)

R2-3: sc in all 21 sts (2 rounds total at 21 sts each)

R4: sc 11, *dec* rep 3 times, sc 4 (18 sts)

R5: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)

R6: sc 1, *dec* rep 3 times, sc 11 (15 sts)

R7: sc 9, *inc* rep 2 times, sc 4 (17 sts)

R8: sc 1, *dec* rep 2 times, sc 12 (15 sts)

R9: sc 1, dec, sc 5, *inc* rep 2 times, sc 5 (16 sts)

Finish off. No need to leave a long tail (see pic. #19). We will make the front of the trunk and sew it on after the mammoth body is completed.

Now take your pet brush and brush what we’ve completed since our first brushing (see pic. #20).

Insert your safety eyes between R13 and 14, where you left a stitch marker. Space the eyes about 15 stitches apart (see pics. #21 & #22).

Continuing with mammoth body

R22: sc 14, dec, sc 13, dec, sc 14, dec, *Sc 13, dec* rep 3 times, dec (87 sts)

R23: *sc 12, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1, dec (80 sts)

R24: *sc 11, dec* rep 6 times, dec (73 sts)

R25: *sc 10, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (67 sts)

R26: *sc 9, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (61 sts)

R27: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (55 sts)

R28: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (49 sts)

R29: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (43 sts)

Stop and start to stuff firmly, continuing as you go. You can start to stuff the trunk as well.

R30: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (37 sts)

R31: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (31 sts)

R32: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (25 sts)

R33: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (19 sts)

R34: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (13 sts)

R35: *dec* rep 6 times, sc 1 (7 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Finish stuffing firmly. Sew up the hole very neatly since it will be visible. Weave in all ends. Take your pet brush and finish brushing the top of your mammoth.

Trunk front (Using brown yarn)

R1: ch 2, 8 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (8 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 8 times (16 sts)

Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Whipstitch this piece to the front of the stuffed trunk. They should match up exactly since there are 16 stitches on this piece and 16 stitches on the last round of the trunk (see pic. #24).

Brush the trunk front with your pet brush so it blends in with the rest of the trunk (see pic. # 25).

Ears (Make 2 using brown yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-8: sc in all 30 sts (3 rounds total at 30 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ears but do not stuff them (see pic. #26).

Now we are going to make the ears fuzzy. Using your pet brush, vigorously brush each ear until it is fluffy and fuzzy. Sew the open ends of the ears closed using our long tail (see pic. #27). Watch this video HERE to see how to sew the open ends closed.

Sew the ears to either side of the head over R13-23 (see pic. #28).

Ensure the ears are curved when you sew them on (see pic. #29). To ensure that the ears stay in the correct position while you sew them on, use straight pins to pin them into place.

Tusks (Make 2 using white yarn)

Tusks are worked in rows, not rounds, and then sewn together lengthwise to create the rolled shape. Because we are working in rows, we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 3, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sc st in each of the 2 chs (2 sts), ch 1, turn

R2-12: sc 2, ch 1, turn (11 rows total at 2 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Fold the piece in half lengthwise and whipstitch the edges together. Sew the tusks to either side of the bottom of the trunk right up against it. Do not brush tusks.

Tail (Using brown yarn)

Ch 8, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sl st in each of the 7 chs (7 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Take a small length of brown yarn and tie it to the end of the tail. Cut it short and fuzz it up along with the rest of the tail using your pet brush. Now sew the tail to the back of the body. Weave in all ends (see pics. #32 & #33).

Your woolly mammoth amigurumi is done!

Cave Boy Amigurumi Pattern

Caveboy is made using sport weight/DK yarn and a C (2.75mm) hook.

Head (using beige yarn)

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-11: sc in all 30 sts (6 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R12: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R13: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)

Insert your 6mm safety eyes between R11 & 12, 7 sts apart. (Hint: insert the 1st eye. Count 7 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There will be 5 whole stitches visible between the eyes. See pic. #34). Embroider a small smile right between his eyes about 2.5 sts wide. Start to stuff the head and continue to stuff as you go.

R14: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R15: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off. Finish stuffing firmly. Use a wooden chopstick, the back of a pencil, or your crochet hook to stuff small pieces.

Hair (using brown yarn)

We will use the berry stitch (bs) to make the hair curly. To make the berry stitch, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over and pull through. Now, working with only the front loop on the hook, ch 4. Now yarn over and pull through both loops on the hook. Your berry stitch is completed. Watch this video HERE to see exactly how to make the berry stitch.

R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (6 sts)

From here on out, every other stitch will be a BS. I’ve written out the pattern here exactly how I did it. If you miss a BS here and there, don’t worry—it’s a very forgiving stitch. Just make sure you have the correct stitch count at the end of each round.

R2: *sc in next st, bs in same st as last sc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, make 1 bs & 1 sc in next st, bs 1, make 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 1, bs 1, 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 1, bs 1, sc 1, 1 bs & 1 sc in next st, 1 bs, 1 sc , 1 bs, 1 sc & 1 bs in next st* rep 3 times (30 sts)

R6: *bs 1, sc 1* rep 15 times (30 sts)

R7: *sc 1, bs 1* rep 15 times (30 sts)

R8-9: rep R6-7 once more (2 rounds total at 30 sts each)

We will now make the fringe around the hair. Do not cut the yarn or finish off.

Curly fringe (continuing in brown yarn)

R10: *ch 3, make 1 sl st in the next sc* rep 30 times (see pic. #35)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Place the hair cap onto the head and pin it into place using straight pins to keep it in place while we sew it on. Make sure you’re sewing down R9 of the hair, not the fringe round (R10), as we want that round loose and moveable (see pic. #36).

Legs (make 2 starting in beige yarn)

R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2^nd ch from hook (4 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)

R3-4 for left leg: sc in all 6 sts (2 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off on the 1^st leg.

R3-4 for right leg: Sc in all 6 sts (2 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Do NOT finish off or cut the yarn on the 2^nd leg; instead, ch 2.

We will now join the legs together and start making the body. The left leg is the one we finished off on, and the right leg is the one still attached to the yarn that we did not finish off (from the doll’s perspective).

Body (continuing in beige yarn)

R5: Join the right leg to left leg with a sc in the 1^st st of the left leg, now sc 5 on the left leg, sc 1 in each of the next two chains (these are the chains we made after the last round of the right leg), now we are crocheting on the right leg, sc 6, sc 1 in each of the last two chains (16 sts) See pics. #37, & #38, & #39.

R6-8: sc in all 16 sts (3 rounds total at 16 sts each)

R9: *sc 2, dec* rep 4 times (12 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Dress (Using yellow yarn)

Holding the body upside down, join the yellow yarn to the last stitch of the last round of the body (see pic. #40). (The dress will want to flip up, but as you continue crocheting, you’ll be able to flip it down easily.)

R1: sc in all 12 sts of the body (12 sts)

R2: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R3-5: sc in all 16 sts (3 rounds total at 16 sts each)

R6: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R7: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)

Finish off (see pic. #42).

Stuff the body firmly and sew it to the head (see pic. #43).

Take some orange yarn and embroider some stripes onto his dress (see pic. #44). Weave in all ends.

Arms (make 2 using beige yarn)

Ch 6, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, make 1 sl st in each of the 5 ch sts (5 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing (see pic. #47). Sew to either side of the body just under the head (see pic. #48). When you are finished, weave in all ends.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free woolly mammoth amigurumi pattern and caveboy. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

If you make this woolly mammoth amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!

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