I’m so happy to share the free pattern for Cupcake the Kitty today! When I first released the pattern for this cat, she wasn’t very popular. Then, when I made a black version and surrounded her with pumpkins, she started getting a lot of attention! People love the spooky vibes this little black kitty brings, and so do I! But she’s not just for Halloween – she’d look good in any color, even pastels! Please enjoy this free cat crochet pattern!
Meet Cupcake the Kitty! Cupcake is a sweet little kitty who loves all things baking. Her specialties are Crepes Suzette, Baked Alaska, and, of course, cupcakes. Treat her nicely, and she might share her sweets with you!
You can purchase a printable, ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this cat crochet pattern in my shop HERE. Otherwise, please keep scrolling down for the free version!
Disclaimer: Some links in this free cat crochet pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!
Materials You Need
- Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in any color plus a small amount of pink, black, and white. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For the kitty in the step-by-step photos, I used Hobby Lobby’s Print I Love This Yarn in the color “Quarry Days“. I also used I Love This Yarn in the colors “Black” and “White” for my black and white kitties.
- G (4 mm) crochet hook
- 12 mm black safety eyes
- Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice)
- Bent tip tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch marker
- Straight pins
Abbreviation Key
Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.
- sc – single crochet
- st/sts – stitch(es)
- sl st – slip stitch
- dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
- inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
- R1 – round 1
- rep – repeat
- ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.
Note: All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.)
The finished size is approximately 7 in. (18 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)
The pattern and images in this document are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.
You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.
Important Additional Info
Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.
Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.
Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.
Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.
Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.
Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.
Free Cat Crochet Pattern
Head (using any color)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R8: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R9: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R10-12: sc in all 54 sts (3 rounds total at 54 sts each)
R13: *sc 8, inc* rep 6 times (60 sts)
R14-20: sc in all 60 sts (7 rounds total at 60 sts each)
R21: *sc 8, dec* rep 6 times (54 sts)
R22: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)
R23: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)
R24: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)
R25: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)
Adding the Eyes
Stop and insert your 12 mm safety eyes between R18 and 19, spaced 10 stitches apart (Hint: Insert the first eye. Count 10 stitches from the hole where you inserted the first eye and insert the second eye. There should be 8 visible stitches between the two eyes).
Now, we will embroider the yarn details around the safety eyes. Take some white yarn (or any contrasting color) and embroider a straight stitch under each eye. You’ll want it to be about 3 sts wide and about one stitch less than halfway around the eye. There should be slightly more white stitch toward the outside of the eye than the inside.
Now, take some black yarn and insert your needle in the same hole you started your white stitch at, toward the outside of the eye. Make a straight stitch across half of the eye. I found that my black stitch wouldn’t stay above the eye without falling, so I added a small loop stitch in the middle to tack it down. See the below photo collage for an example.
Adding the Mouth and Whiskers
Now for the mouth, using pink yarn, embroider two angled stitches, like a “V” centered between the eyes over R18 of the head. Make a small stitch below the “V” to complete the mouth.
Let’s embroider the whiskers. About one stitch away from the eye, between R19 and 20 of the head, embroider a stitch about 4 stitches wide straight across. Then make another, angled stitch for the second whisker. The end of the second whisker should be about 2 rounds down from the first whisker. Repeat for the opposite side of the face. I used black yarn for my whiskers but you could use any contrasting color.
Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff it as you go.
R26: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R27: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R28: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R29: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)
Finish off and weave in ends.
Body
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)
R6-13: sc in all 30 sts (8 rounds total at 30 sts each)
R14: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)
R15: *sc 2, dec* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R16: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.
Position the body to the bottom center of the head and pin it into place using straight pins. Sew the body to the head using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tail into the head to finish.
Ears (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 4 sc in 2nd ch from hook (4 sts)
R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 2 times (6 sts)
R3: *sc 2, inc* rep 2 times (8 sts)
R4: *sc 3, inc* rep 2 times (10 sts)
R5: *sc 4, inc* rep 2 times (12 sts)
R6: *sc 5, inc* rep 2 times (14 sts)
R7: *sc 6, inc* rep 2 times (16 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the ear, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.
Position the ears to the head over R7-14 approximately, making the corners of the ears curve in just a bit. Pin them into place using straight pins. Sew the ears to the head using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure your sewing and weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.
Thighs (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook (6 sts)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)
R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)
R4-6: sc in all 18 sts (3 rounds total at 18 sts each)
Finish off leaving long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Fold the thighs in half and sew the open ends closed just like we did for the ears.
Flatten the thighs and position them to either side of the body. Because the thighs are slightly curved when flattened, you’ll sew the corners of the thighs to R6 & 7 of the body and the bottom edge of the thigh to R5. Pin the thighs into place using straight pins once you have them positioned.
Sew the thighs to the body using the whipstitch. When you finish sewing the corners and bottom edge of the thigh to the body, weave your needle to the top of the thigh and sew down several stitches from the top of the thigh to the body (see the last two images in the collage below). This will firmly secure it to the body without having to sew all the way around the thigh and lose its puffy shape.
Feet (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2-4: sc in all 5 sts (3 rounds total at 5 sts each)
Finish off, leaving a long tail for sewing. There is no need to stuff. Sew the open ends closed like we did for the ears. Position the feet on the underside of the body, centered over the space between the body and thighs. When she’s sitting upright, you’ll want about two rounds of the feet sticking out from under the thighs. Pin the feet into place using straight pins. Sew the back flat edge of each foot to the body and and thigh. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Arms (make 2)
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2-5: sc in all 5 sts (4 rounds total at 5 sts each)
(If you feel like the arms are too short for your kitty, add 1-2 more rounds to make them a bit longer.)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There’s no need to stuff.
On each arm, sew the open ends closed to create a flat edge for sewing like we did with the ears. Position the arms over R8-9 of the body so that they are at a slight angle and spaced two stitches apart at the top of the arms. Sew the arms to the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.
Take a bit of matching yarn and sew the tips of the paws. To do this, pull the yarn and needle through both paws, go over one stitch from where the needle came out on his right arm, and bring the yarn back through both paws. Repeat this until you are satisfied it’s secure. Once you are finished, weave in both ends.
Tail
R1: ch 2, 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook (5 sts)
R2-19: sc in all 5 sts (18 rounds total—5 sts)
Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. There’s no need to stuff the tail.
Position the tail over R3-6 of the body so that it rests on the ground and assists your kitty in sitting up when she’s sitting on a flat surface. Set your cat on a flat surface to make sure it is positioned correctly. Sew to the back of the body using the whipstitch. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body.
Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free cat crochet pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!
If you make this free cat crochet pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).
Please feel free to leave a comment below, letting me know if you enjoyed this free cat crochet pattern or have any questions!
Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!
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