Free Triceratops Amigurumi Pattern – Crochet Tutorial

I’m so excited to finally share the pattern for Trixie the Triceratops! This pattern has been nearly two years in the making, as she was one of the animals I designed while pregnant. I hope you enjoy this free triceratops amigurumi pattern and she brings you and your little ones lots of joy!

Meet Trixie the Triceratops! Trixie is one of the friendliest dinosaurs you will ever meet. She loves munching on ferns and playing in the streams and waterfalls. She also loves spending time with her family.

You can find an ad-free, beautifully formatted, concise version of this triceratops amigurumi pattern in my shop HERE. Supporting my website in this way ensures that I can release many more free patterns in the future!

Disclaimer: Some links in this free triceratops amigurumi pattern may be affiliate links. Affiliate links are a way for me to make a small commission on certain products at no extra cost to you!

Materials You Need to Make This Free Triceratops Amigurumi Pattern

• Worsted-weight yarn (4-ply) in green and cream. (The U.K. equivalent is Aran, and AUS/NZ is 8 ply.) For my triceratops, I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in the colors “Mid Green” and “Ivory”.
• G (4 mm) crochet hook
• 12 mm black safety eyes
• Fiberfill (or your stuffing of choice) 
• Bent tip tapestry needle
• Scissors 
• Stitch marker 
• Straight pins

Abbreviation Key

Abbreviations are in U.S. terms.

• sc – single crochet
• st/sts – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• dec – decrease (join the next 2 stitches together)
• inc – increase (2 single crochet in the next stitch)
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• trc – triple crochet
• BLO – back loops only
• R1 – round 1
• rep – repeat
• ** – repeat the group of instructions between the asterisks the number of times indicated.

Note:  All rounds are worked continuously (that is, vs. joined rounds.) 

The finished size is approximately 6.5 in. (16 cm.) tall. (Please be aware that your personal gauge, tension, hook size, and the brand of yarn you decide to use will all impact the finished size.)

The pattern and images in this free triceratops amigurumi pattern are the sole property of Storyland Amis. This written pattern is for personal use only. Please do not share, sell, or redistribute it in whole or part.

You MAY sell the finished product, but please credit Storyland Amis as the designer. If you sell your finished items online, I would appreciate it if you could link them to my blog! You may not mass-produce items made from this pattern. Thank you for your understanding and respect.

Important Additional Info

Starting round: When starting my crochet pieces in the round, I always use the “ch 2 method.” That is perfectly fine if you prefer to start your pieces using the magic circle/ring instead. These two methods are interchangeable, and the end result will be the same regardless of your choice. Watch this short video to learn how to make the “ch 2 method”.

Right vs. wrong side: When working in the round, I always crochet with the “right” side of the stitches facing out. Watch my short video to see the difference between the “right” and “wrong” side of crochet stitches.

Yarn under vs. yarn over: I always yarn under (YU) instead of yarn over (YO) for all my amigurumi. Doing YO might make your amigurumi slightly larger than mine, so keep that in mind if you prefer YO. Watch my video on the differences between yarn under and yarn over.

Sewing pieces together: I sew all my pieces together using the whipstitch unless otherwise specified.

Stuffing: Check out my short video on how to stuff pieces properly here.

Color changes: Insert hook into last st of round or section with old color, yarn over & pull hook through st. Take your new color of yarn, yarn over & pull hook through remaining 2 loops on hook. Now you’re ready to start the new round or section. Check out my video on color changes here.

Free Triceratops Amigurumi Pattern

Head (using green yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts) (you can use the magic circle/ring if you prefer as it won’t make a difference in the end. Watch this video to see how to start crocheting in the round using the “ch 2 method”.)
R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6: *sc 4, inc* rep 6 times (36 sts)

R7: *sc 5, inc* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R8-9: sc in all 42 sts (2 rounds total at 42 sts each)

R10: *sc 6, inc* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R11-15: sc in all 48 sts (5 rounds total at 48 sts each)

R16: *sc 7, inc* rep 6 times (54 sts)

R17: sc in all 54 sts (54 sts)

R18: *sc 7, dec* rep 6 times (48 sts)

R19: *sc 6, dec* rep 6 times (42 sts)

R20: *sc 5, dec* rep 6 times (36 sts)

Adding the Eyes

Insert your 12 mm eyes between R16 & 17 of the head spaced 13 sts apart (Hint: Insert the 1st eye. Count 13 sts from the hole where you inserted the 1st eye and insert the 2nd eye. There should be 11 visible sts between the two eyes).

Start to stuff the head, continuing to stuff as you close the head up. See “stuffing” under the “Important Additional Info” section of this post for tips on how to stuff large heads.

R21: *sc 4, dec* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R22: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

Finish off. Leave a short tail. Do not sew the opening closed. Finish stuffing the head then set it aside until we make the body.

Top of beak (using green yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 4 times (8 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 4 times (12 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 4 times (16 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 4 times (20 sts)

R6: sc in all 20 sts (20 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Instead, flatten the piece, then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing. Watch this video to learn how to sew the open ends closed on a crocheted piece.

Set aside until we make the bottom of the beak.

Bottom of beak (using green yarn)

R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1 (12 sts)

Starting your work with a foundation chain is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom, and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now, you continue as you usually would working in the round. Check out this video to learn how to work into a foundation chain.

R2: *inc, sc 1* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R3: sc in all 18 sts (18 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff. Like we did for the top of the beak, sew the open end closed to create a flat edge for sewing.

Sewing the beak to the head

We will start by sewing the top of the beak to the front of the head first. Position it over R13 to 16 of the head so that the bottom corners curve down to R16 and the top edge is over R13. Pin it into place using straight pins.

Sew the outer edge of the beak to the front of the head using the whipstitch. We will only sew the top outer edge down. When you reach the other end of the beak, leave the remaining tail hanging until we sew the bottom part on.

Now place the bottom of the beak directly under the top of the beak over R16 to 20 of the head. The bottom piece should be curved so that the corners reach R16 of the head, and the bottom edge rests over R20. Pin it into place using straight pins.

Sew the bottom outer edge of the beak down using the whipstitch.

When you reach the end, knot the sewing tail to the remaining tail we left from the top of the beak together to secure the sewing.

Then, weave the two ends into the head to finish.

Frill (using green yarn)

The frill is worked in rows instead of rounds, so we will ch 1 and turn at the end of each row.

R1: ch 37, starting in the 2^nd ch from the hook, make 1 sc in each of the 36 chs (36 sts), ch 1, turn

R2: *inc 1, sc 5* rep 5 times, inc, sc 4, inc (43 sts), ch 1, turn

R3: *sl st 1, sc 1, make 1 hdc and 1 dc in the next st, make 1 dc, 1 trc, and 1 dc in the next st, make 1 dc and 1 hdc in the next st, sc 1* rep 7 times, sl st 1 (see below photo collage)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing.

Position the frill centered over the top of the head. Pin it into place using straight pins (see pic. #18 & #19).

Using the whipstitch, sew the bottom edge of the frill to the head.

When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave in all ends.  

Top horns (make 2 using cream yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)

R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)

R3: sc in all 6 sts (6 sts)

R4: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)

R5: sc in all 8 sts (8 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

Position the horns in front of the frill and over R5-8 of the head. Position them so that the increases are pointing outward. Pin them in place using straight pins.

Sew the horns to the head using the seamless join method.

When you finish sewing the horns on, weave the remaining tails from both horns to the back of the head and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing.

Weave the remaining tails into the head to finish.

Front horn (using cream yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)

R2: sc 3, inc (5 sts)

R3: sc 4, inc (6 sts)

R4: sc 5, inc (7 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

Position the horn over R4-6 of the top of the beak so that the increases are facing inward toward the head. Pin it in place using straight pins (see pic. #29).

Sew the horn to the top of the beak using the seamless join method like we did for the top horns.

Body (using green yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *inc* rep 6 times (12 sts)

R3: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R4: *sc 2, inc* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R5: *sc 3, inc* rep 6 times (30 sts)

R6-11: sc in all 30 sts (6 rounds total at 30 sts each)

R12: *sc 3, dec* rep 6 times (24 sts)

R13-15: sc in all 24 sts (3 rounds total at 24 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body firmly.

Since the last round of the head and the last round of the body have 24 sts, the two pieces will line up perfectly. Using the whipstitch, sew the two pieces together.

When you are about three-fourths of the way around, add a little more stuffing to the neck to make it sturdier. When finished, knot the finishing tail from the head we left to the remaining sewing tail of the body to secure the sewing and weave the tails into the body to finish.

Legs (make 2 using green yarn)

R1: ch 5, starting in 2^nd ch from hook, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1, now rotate your work 180 degrees and work in the front loops of the ch, starting in the first ch, inc 1, sc 2, inc 1 (12 sts)

Starting your work with a foundation chain is a great way to start a piece you want to be more oval than round. After crocheting through the top loops of the chain, you turn your work upside down so that the sts you just crocheted are at the bottom, and the front/bottom loops of the chain are now at the top. These are the sts you will now work into. Once you’re at the end of the row, the first round is complete! Now you continue as you usually would working in the round. Check out this video to learn how to work into a foundation chain.

R2: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R3: BLO sc in all 12 sts (12 sts) (This is the only round we will crochet in the BLO on the legs).

R4: sc in all 12 sts (12 sts)

R5: sc 3, dec 3, sc 3 (9 sts)

R6: sc in all 9 sts (9 sts)

R7: *sc 2, inc* rep 3 times (12 sts)

R8: *sc 1, inc* rep 6 times (18 sts)

R9-10: sc in all 18 sts (2 rounds total at 18 sts each)

R11: *sc 1, dec* rep 6 times (12 sts)

Stop and stuff the leg lightly. Do not stuff it too firmly, or you will have difficulty sewing the legs to the body.

R12: *dec* rep 6 times (6 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the top of each leg, and then sew the open end closed using the whipstitch to create a flat edge for sewing (like we did for the top of the beak).

Sewing the Legs to the Body

Position the legs to the sides of the body so that your dino is able to sit up on her own when you set her on a flat surface. I sewed the back flat edge of the legs to R6-9 of my dino’s body, but yours might be different, so make sure to set your dino on a flat surface to ensure she can sit on her own.

When you have the legs positioned where you want them, pin them into place using straight pins to keep them in place while you are sewing them on.

Starting where your finishing tail is on the top of the leg, sew the flat back edge of the leg to the body. Then, sew down three to four stitches from the bottom of the thigh to the body.

When you have done that, weave the sewing tail up to the top of the leg and sew down three to four stitches of the top edge to secure (see the photo collage below). Repeat for the second leg.

When you are finished sewing the legs on, weave the remaining tails from both legs through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing (like we did for the two top horns). Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.

Arms (make 2 using green yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 6 (6 sts)

R2: *sc 1, inc* rep 3 times (9 sts)

R3: BLO sc in all 9 sts (9 sts) (this is the last round we will crochet in the BLO on the arms)

R4-6: sc in all 9 sts (3 rounds total at 9 sts each)

R7: *sc 1, dec* rep 3 times (6 sts)

R8-11: sc in all 6 sts (4 rounds total at 6 sts each)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. I did not stuff my arms, but you may if you like. As we did for the legs, flatten the open ends closed on each arm and sew the opening closed so that there is a flat edge for sewing.

Sewing the Arms to the Body

Position the arms over R13-14 of the front of the body so they are angled slightly. Set your dino on a flat surface to make sure that the bottoms of the arms touch the ground. The arms should be spaced so that there are about 5 sts of the body between the arms.

Pin the arms into place using straight pins then sew them to the front of the body using the whipstitch.

Just like we did for the legs, when you are finished, weave the remaining tails from both arms through to the back of the body and knot the two tails together to secure the sewing. Weave the remaining tails into the body to finish.  

Tail (using green yarn)

R1: ch 2, starting in the 2^nd ch from hook, sc 4 (4 sts)

R2: inc, sc 2, inc (6 sts)

R3: inc, sc 4, inc (8 sts)

R4: inc, sc 6, inc (10 sts)

R5: inc, sc 8, inc (12 sts)

R6: inc, sc 10, inc (14 sts)

R7: inc, sc 12, inc (16 sts)

R8: inc, sc 15 (17 sts)

Finish off leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly.

Position the tail to the back of the body over R4-10 of the body, approx. It should be centered between the backs of the legs. Like we did for the legs and arms, place your dino on a flat surface to ensure the tail is positioned low enough to touch the ground.

Once positioned, pin it into place using straight pins and sew it to the body using the whipstitch. When you are about ¾ of the way around, finish stuffing the tail. When you are finished, make a knot to secure the sewing and weave the remaining tail into the body to finish.

Congratulations—you’re done! I hope you enjoyed making this free triceratops amigurumi pattern. I would love to see pictures of your finished project!

If you make this free triceratops amigurumi pattern, share your creations with me via social media or email me directly! You can find me on Instagram (@storyland_amis) and Facebook (Storyland Amis).

Thanks for stopping by! Until next time, then – stay crafty!

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